Re: [Amc-list] Big motor small heads,,,

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

My manifold on my American, which I wish I still had pics of, lost them in computer crash, is a rebuild.
What I find is easiest way to save the 91-95 when cracked is to cut it apart! I took one that was in pretty bad conditon and carefully cut it apart at the welds. Shortened it up about a 14" in the worst area, then rebuilt it! I welded the two main sections back together where the pipes laid against each other. Then split a 2.5" pipe and spread and flattened it to form a new cone area. welded it on and then cut two tirangle wedges to fill the splits. Welded all that up and then used some 2.5" mandrel bends to to run the pipe down around the clutch linkage and bellhousing and at the point I got the exhaust pointed straight back I welded on a 2.5" header flange. 
   I built that header in 01 or thereabouts. It is wrapped and has been maintenance free.  I have mine suported with a heavy strap at the rear of the trans.
     For many years my dad and the shop he works at would take them off and send them to the local welder and he would weld them up and they would put them back on. The lasted longer than the factory welds did.
   If anyone needs one, I have a super nice one that has about an 1/8" spot on it that shows possible begining of a crack and leak. Hit me back channel, I was saving it for later, but later is not going to happen as I now have a Borla here too that needs welded. No sense in saving this one!

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> It's easy to keep the factory "header" from cracking, or at least easy to 
> greatly reduce the potential to crack. The tubular exhaust manifolds move a lot 
> more than cast iron ones, and can't support as much weight. All that's needed is 
> an exhaust hanger near the firewall so that the manifold isn't supporting the 
> weight of the exhaust system. That was okay for a heavy iron manifold, stresses 
> the joints on the tubular ones too much. Or a metal brace attached to say a bell 
> housing bolt and the exhaust system, sort of like the old L-head exhaust brace, 
> which is just a piece of 1" wide x 1/8" thick flat bar drilled to attach to a 
> bell housing bolt and the other end drilled so a u-bolt goes around the exhaust 
> pipe and through the brace -- both ends through the brace). 
> 
> I always weld the cracks the add a few gussets, and a strap or bar between the 
> last three on the Renix exhaust manifold. I have a 91-95 exhaust manifold that 
> shows signs of cracking at a joint or two but no signs of exhaust leaking. I'll 
> weld them anyway and see how best to gusset/brace it to prevent future cracks. 
> 
> ---------------
> Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:50:23 -0700
> From: Jim Blair <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> As long as they can convince people they won't break like the factory ones they 
> will do all right. (referring to factory Jeep "headers" cracking)
> 
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
> 
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