Re: [Amc-list] Shock absorbing goodness!

[Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>]

"Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx> said:


>(I am REAL happy I stored a beer in the back of the fridge. It's 90's
>and humid today. Definately a beer day! Even if it's a just Rolling
>Rock from Latrobe PA.)


Ah, that reminds me of a story.  Good one to repeat, too, when the temp is above 100 as it is today in Richmond, VA...


>Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 17:02:50 -0400
>To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>From: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: 1970 Rebel Fuel Guage
>
>
>>My fuel guage stays on empty even whe tank is full. Ho do I determine whether the problem is with the guage itself or in the sensing unit in the tank?
>
>
>Just hold a match up to the fuel filler neck and look in.
>
>OK, OK, here's the real guide, from the 70 TSM:
>
>Sending Unit Tests ---------------------------
>
>1.  Check to make sure guage has a good ground.
>
>2.  Have a sip of beer.  Better make it two.
>
>3.  Off-car test with an ohmmmmmmmmmmmmeter -- Connect ohmmeter leads to each other and zero the meter.
>
>4.  Connect leads to indicator terminal and pick-up tube.
>
>5.  Raise the float arm to the upper stop.  The meter should read 9.6 ohms, more or less.
>
>6.  Go have dinner with your kids.  Or someone else's kids, it doesn't matter.
>
>7.  Allow the float arm to fall to its lower stop -- UNDER ITS OWN WEIGHT ONLY, and at roughly the same attitude as when it is installed in the car.  If it doesn't fall to its bottom stop, it is defective.
>
>8.  Tape this month's centerfold on your workbench so you have something to keep your mind off the highly flammable fuel vapor now permeating your workshop.
>
>9.  If it does, it should measure 73 ohms, plus or minus 12 (geez, what a fudge factor!).
>
>10.  If the sender fails any of these tests, it is defective and must be replaced.
>
>Fuel Guage Tests ----------------------------------
>
>1.  If all indicators fail to operate or are grossly incorrect, check the instrument panel voltage regulator before harassing the fuel guage.
>
>2.  Disconnect the wire from the fuel tank sending unit, and connect it to a known good sending unit.  [now, where did I put my spare NOS fuel tank sender...  D'OH!!!]
>
>3.  Connect a jumper wire to a good ground.
>
>4.  Go for a walk, and finish your beer.  Get another one.
>
>5.  Turn on the ignition switch.
>
>6.  Move the float arm to the upper stop.  The indicator should read "F" or "full".
>
>7.  Allow the float arm to return to its lower stop.  The indicator should now read "E".
>
>8.  If the indicator now reads correctly, the tank sending unit is defective.
>
>9.  Swear quietly at the thought of having to drop the fuel tank to get at that danged sending unit.
>
>10.  If the indicator still reads improperly or is erratic, the indicator or the wiring to the indicator is faulty.
>
>11.  Nip off some more beer.
>
>12.  Disconnect the main harness from the instrument cluster.
>
>13.  Call up your best friend and ask him to bring over more beer.
>
>14.  Connect the lead from the test sending unit to the fuel indicator pin terminal at the rear of the instrument cluster.
>
>15.  Connect a jumper wire from the pickup tube of the test sending unit to a steering column mounting bolt to provide a good ground for the test unit.
>
>16.  Finish your second beer, open one more, chug it, and get another.
>
>17.  Connect a jumper from the ignition terminal of the main harness plug to the ignition terminal of the cluster.  
>
>18.  Repeat the test for the tank sending unit.
>
>19.  Throw a wrench at the cat trying to sneak into your garage.
>
>20.  If the indicator does not read correctly or is erratic, the indicator is defective and must be replaced.
>
>21.  If the indicator reads correctly, the wire between the indicator and tank is defective and must be repaired.
>
>22.  Finish up the rest of your six pack, and call your friend again to ask where he is with the beer.
>
>-- end --



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