Re: [Amc-list] Clean Comanche in Local Yard

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Yes, but hammering at the left inner fender panel won't do it, you'd need to cut the panel out above the suspension mount reinforcement and put a flat piece in, or maybe even an indented piece where the intake sticks way over. There's only 20.5" between the suspension reinforcements. The "humps" are only slightly further apart, maybe another 1-2" tops, under 24" apart. From the center of the engine nothing can stick out more than about 10-11" (some clearance is needed for engine movement). The engine block is at least 6" wide, so that means the outer edge of the intake can only be 5" from the head. Cutting the hump off gains roughly 3" at about the intake height. The side panel can be indented another inch or two right above the suspension reinforcement if room is needed that low, but you can only go in so far before clearance around the spring is an issue. 

Mustang II suspensions are generally used in tight engine compartments, but won't fit in ANY American due to the relatively narrow width of the "frame" rails. The spring mount wants to be in the middle of the rail, and you can't make it go out further. New rails can be made inside the existing ones (the inside rail measurement on the 64-69 Rambler is about the same as the outside measurement for an MII crossmember) or the front cut off and a new front frame system built. The later looks better -- just buy a Chevy II front frame kit and modify the Rambler body so it bolts right on. LOTS of work! 

A better choice would be to get an early Mustang strut kit. Wouldn't be too hard to make a bolt-on plate to mount a ball joint to the lower trunnion. Could be as simple as a flat plate with a 5/8" stud welded on the bottom. Screw that into the lower trunnion. Make sure the plate rests on top of the arms and has a stop to prevent it from turning. The lower trunnion then holds the plate on, and a ball joint is bolted to the plate. Would have to have a spacer ring for the ball joint to sit flat, but would be simple enough. You could replace the control arm bushings and weld a ball joint mount plate to the arms, but if the bushings needed replacing again the arms would have to be cut. Aw heck, since we're throwing all this money at it, let's just make new tubular arms for the bottom. Better yet, modify an upper Mustang II arm! Just flip it upside down and bolt the mount bar to the Rambler! 

------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 20:37:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008, Frank Swygert wrote:

> Won't fit the early American,


Is this the manifold issue? It would be worth hammering at that
problem... the 2.5L's are common, in the family, and would be
an excellent upgrade path if the fit could be resolved.

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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