Re: [Amc-list] rear main seal upper won't budge

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Take a 16d nail and cut it off -- about an inch long. Stick it in the rod journal oil hole. Rotate the crank by hand and it should push the seal out. Will take a good bit of effort to get it moving. 

If it's a rope seal you will have to drop the crank at least an inch at the rear. Remove the balancer and front seal, but leave the timing cover and chain alone. Drop the main caps 1/4" at front, 1/2 next, 3/4", and completely remove #4 and #5. You should be able to leave the rods on, but might have to pull the last two (or more). There is a pin in the block protruding down from the top of the seal groove. It's there to keep the rope from slipping. 

Now that I took the time to type all that, I seem to recall that GEN-2/3 V-8s definitely DO NOT have rope seals, they have a neoprene seal. It's the old 196 and GEN-1 V-8s that have a rope seal. 


----------------
From: Steven Clark <javelin1973401@xxxxxxxxx>
 
Hello,
I'm replacing the rear main seal on my 74 Cherokee,
360, and am having a lot of trouble driving the upper
part of the seal out from around the crank.  I am
using a brass rod that fits well, and have all the
main bearing caps looosened a few turns.  I've beat on
it for about an hour now, this sucker just won't
budge.  The lower seal was very tight in the main
bearing cap.  I REALLY don't want to pull the engine. 
Any advice, tricks, tips, or ideas?

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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