Re: [Amc-list] Source for BW tranny front pump seal?

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Roger, any trans parts place should be able to get you a seal. If no 
luck, pull the seal and get the number off it. Then call a "bearing and 
drives" specialty seller. Should be listed under "bearings and drives" 
in the yellow pages. They can match the seal by number.

Don't pull the engine unless you have to for something else! Pull the 
transmission instead. The torque tube isn't hard to pull. Disconnect 
shocks, panhard rod (at body), park brake cable (at the front), and rear 
brake line. Take the four bolts out at the rear of the transmission. 
With the body on jack stands and the front wheels blocked, trans in 
neutral, roll the rear axle backwards. You might have to lie down and 
push real hard to get it to slide off the front at first. I always jack 
the car up by the rear axle and take the tires off, leaving the axle on 
a floor jack pushed in from the rear. That way you can slide the axle 
back much further on the jack.

After that, pull the cover off the bell housing and take the converter 
bolts out. Drain the trans pan. I think you just remove the dipstick 
tube on those, it's been a while! You'll need to rotate the motor BY 
HAND as you pull them off. You should be able to hook a wrench on the 
next tight bolt and pull in the "tighten" direction to rotate the 
engine. Use a normal size (12-16 ounce) hammer to whack the wrench good 
once you have a BOX END on the converter bolt. The shock will loosen it 
without turning the engine much.

Once the converter bolst are out, disconnect the speedometer cable, 
shift rod, vacuum line, and TV cable (from the throttle linkage). Put a 
jack under the trans and take the bell housing bolts off. The converter 
should stay on the trans as you slide it back. I'd drain all the fluid 
out of the converter while it's out, and pour a couple quarts back in it 
before you put it back on. Stick it on the front of the trans BEFORE 
putting it back up. Rotate the converter and make sure it's pressed all 
the way in. The shaft has to be on the stator then the collar "fingers" 
have to engage the pump. It should push forward and "lock" in, then push 
forward a second time as you rotate it. Then lift it all back in place 
and connect everything.

It's easiest to get the seal out with a special seal puller (under $25), 
but you can do it with a bit of work and patience (or cursing...) with a 
screwdriver or two. I have a bent tip screwdriver I "made" just for that 
job, and I've used a 1 lb. slide hammer with screw end on larger ones 
(drill small hole, screw end of slide hammer in, pull!). The slide 
hammer is easy if you have one, but don't drill where the numbers are!
--------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 12:23:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: rogblake@xxxxxxxxx

I need a replacement front pump seal for the automatic trans on a '65 
Rambler with 327 V8. (This is the big/heavy cast-iron transmission.) 
Anyone have a part number and/or source for this seal?

Also, between looking at the TSM and and old Chilton manual, it looks 
like it should be possible to access this seal by taking out the engine 
and removing the torque converter. Is a special tool needed to pull the 
seal out? (The trans is otherwise working well, was rebuilt about 20 
years ago and only has about 10,000 miles on the overhaul. No slippage, 
positive shifts. The only problem is fluid pouring out from the 
bellhousing when running!)
-- 

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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