[Amc-list] Turbo 6

[Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message ----- 


From: "russell carducci" <rac57@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>

Subject: [Amc-list] Blow thru turbo on 258 1969 rambler



this is my first post on the list it is my 69 rambler 258 turbo project. 

258 with 4.0 jeep eliminator head clifford 4 barrel intake, stainless header, comp
baja cam, turbo is a turbonetics t4, hks style waste gate, Nissan skyline pop
off valve.

 i am planning on running between 4-7 pounds of boost.

 the trans is
a built chevy 350 with the novak adapter plate hurst shifter next i will be
needing a stronger rear end like a 8.8 ford, paint is a 2005 Chrysler
midnight blue metallic pearl torque thrust 2 wheels. if anyone has any info
for me advice what so ever about turbo stuff or other performance upgrades
would be most appreciated, thanks russell i will post more soon oh and
thanks tomj for the invite to the amc-list



--




Hello Russell~~!


Welcom to HappyTown.....e.


Is that your real name ?  car_ducci ? sorta like El_Ducci hmm.."?


Turbos are addicting power adders ~  4 lbs leads to 9 lbs leads to 16 lbs
since the power comes so easlily at first.


Not knowing how far along you are / how firm your plan is, I'll run a few
ideas past you.


What year head is a 4.0 JEEP Eliminator ?  

The best 4.0 heads are around a '93 vintage as these tend not to crack & have the
better port configuration.

What year is the 258 short block ?  Half inch head bolts ? Use ARP head bolts.


Turbos like a 'Torque' spec cam, not alot of overlap as you'll just be
blowing fuel out the exhaust & torch the valves. 

What is a Baja Cam ? Got any Spec sheet sheet ?

A cam that makes power from 1500 to 4500 is the better idea with Turbo.



Change out the AMC valve springs, keepers & locks to a Performance set >> 
AMC locks are Failure Prone with Turbos :: you'll drop a valve & destroy a piston..
it has been done before.


A good Stainless Steel Intake Valve & Quality One Piece Cast Iron Exhaust or
Manley 'Iconel' exhaust valve is good.

Valve Guides & Teflon Valve Stem Seals must be in A+1 condition - you don't
want oil pushing into the combustion chambers. This would raise combustion
pressure in one or more chambers and lead to failure.



Join these:

jyturbo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

www.strokers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

gmecm@xxxxxxxxxxx



Most of the AMC Turbo 6 guys eventually wind up with a 4.0 head / EFI swap
as the blow thru carb got to be a pain in the venturi.

Those who went blow thru carb first, posted later they'd wished they'd gone EFi first.

A good blow thru carb done right is around $600.00 - and still a pita.



That said:

For EFi / Turbo, get yourself a '99 JEEP 4.0 intake manifold complete with
everything........ eBay or www.car-parts.com or ask around on www.strokers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Get an '80s Pontiac Sunbird Turbo '7749 ECM...... www.car-parts.com > around $50.00 .


This is the engine control module, developed by GM to control a Turbo motor - it is
also used on the Turbo Chevy pick up & GM Turbo SUV >  it's called a '7749 ECM.

If you can find a Pontiac Sunbird Turbo car locally, strip off the ECM & harness 
wiring & sensors & chat with 'MIKE V' .



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This is car guys that hack GM ecm units for their EFi projects -
many are on the JYTurbo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx list -


There is a member there, 'MIKE V' who'll walk you thru the set up - 
don't fret, ...you're not alone..... he's on JYTurbo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
also - just post what you have & ask for help with the set up.

once you understand the basic parts, like harness, ECM, sensors, Throttle Body,
Fuel Rail, Injector Seals, Injector Body etc. - i'ts dope easy.

it's much less work than screwing with pressurizing a Carb and
diddling the thing to not leak, avoiding Engine Fires, Floats locking
or collapsing,
and working out lean spots or too rich rpm bands - where with
one you'll torch the pistons - the other will wash the oil off your
cylinder walls - all hit or miss most of the time.


YOu can run a 'J' pipe off the exhaust header placing the Turbo
up near the Throttle Body.

www.burnsstainless.com > get a Catalog.


Read up on Inter coolers - get a good one that flows easily.

eBay is your Turbo Friend - lots of stuff there, ask around
on the jyTurbo group as to a nice Inter cooler suggestion.


You can use a chop saw with carbide wheel to cut tube / pipe easily
to degrees needed.  

Use a spot welder to tac thing together & bring to a welder to finish.

Brace the stainless header with tabs to block bolts so the weight of
the Turbo doesn't crack it up.


Do not use 'Header Wrap' - on the header.


A Turbo Timer 'Pre Luber' is a good idea - it continues to circulate cooling oil
into the Turbo after the engine is shut down. Watch eBay for these.

Get a BIG Engine OIL COOLER & run Synthetic Oil so you don't COKE UP THE TURBO.

Use Mobil TURBO DIESEL Oil - WIX filter - not FRAM.



Where's the Pain you ask ?

Got it right here for yah........;]



I would invest in a set of Forged Turbo Pistons with Turbo wrist pins & Turbo
Ring Package.......WhY ?


The cast AMC pistons are brittle, Turbo 6 motors with stock pistons crack
ring lands & generally fracture themselves in harmful ways - big headache after you've done
all this other prep.  


I like VENOLIA Pistons personally. 8 to one or 8.5 to 1
comp. ratio should work.

Use ARP head bolts / con rod bolts / main stud bolts.

Look into a Methanol Injection Sysstem - GM 1 as the Germans called it - they
used it on Me-109 & Fw-190 engines.  

Most all Turbo cars run this system with a pressure
sensor.  Do a www.google.com search, you'll turn up alot of leads & info.

You can buy kits or build your own - either way, it is good to have under the Bonnet.





-- 

    =Bt=
milnersXcoupe
"The Heretic"

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