[Amc-list] Torque and re-Torque

["Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Now I don't have a lot of experience with the particular engine being
mentioned here. But I DO have a LOT of experience doing all kinds of
automotive machine work (40 years).
 Has anyone using one of these motors and having that much trouble had the
BLOCK machined? In my experience the top of the block will be warped as
bad or WORSE than the head after you run it hot a couple of times.
 MOST head gaskets will only "crush" between .003 and .007. MOST of the
old blocks (no matter the type) I machine have an AVERAGE of .012 taken
off to get them flat. Sooo,, do the math,, ASSUMING your head is flat and
you put it together with .012 warp of the block and the gasket only
crushes .007,,, she aint gonna last long that way.
 And what kind of finish and accuracy are you getting on your machine job?
DO NOT let your head get "sanded" on one of the big sanders. I have seen
more cylinder heads ruined by those things than I can count! I have
actually measured a cylinder head that was sanded .125 more on one end
!!!! 
 Spec to your machinist that you want it MACHINED not sanded. I do mine on
either a Storm Vulcan Blockmaster or I have a jig for my Enco mill that I
use. The Enco will get a cylinder head 18" long square and flat within
about .0015, that's DARN close!!
I can't see where a re-torque of the head periodically can hurt you after
the initial squeeze is done. 
 What type of gasket is being used? I'll have to tell you I have
absolutely NO faith in FelPro's non-retorque head gaskets. If it were ME,
and I knew the history of this motor I would be looking for a Graphite
head gasket with a silicone release on it, I would NOT use any sealer on
it.  If your block and head are flat with a reasonably smooth surface you
should get good service life out of it.
But HEY,,, that's just ME!!
Bruce Hevner
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