Re: [Amc-list] early American upper trunnion bolt, revisited

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

> The ultimate fix would be to drill the casting and install an oil-lite
> (graphite impregnated bronze) bushing. The pin would have to stay

Actually that's probably the best idea. You could lube it,
somewhat at least, since the stock bolt is drilled. Might have to make
the bushing from stock (my local IMS stocks the stuff) but it's not
super precision.

> I do have one problem with your preventive-maintenance fix though. While
> the trunnion has little pressure on it, the spring does! The pivot pin is
> the only thing keeping the steering knuckle from pivoting in or out. If


I was only suggesting backing out the bolt the 3/4" or so
until the bolt end is flush with the arm -- the one closest to
nut. Both arms would still be bearing the fore/aft/in-out thrust,
which is very low since the main sprin force is downward onto
the spindle. I don't think taking the bolt out any further
would do any better anyways, short of compelte disassembly,
cleaning and lube.

In fact, it would probably do fine to simply remove the nut
from the trunnion bolt, back the bolt out 2 - 3 turns, lube,
then re-insert and tighten, greasing it every half turn or so.

> the steering knuckle pivots (and it most likely will with the pin out)
> the spring is going to fly out.

Oh absolutely -- removing the upper trunnion bolt completely
would be serious trouble!


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