Re: [Amc-list] Response to Oiling problems and Lifters
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Re: [Amc-list] Response to Oiling problems and Lifters
- From: "Thomas, Jeff" <jeff.thomas@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 10:50:31 -0400
AMC TEAM,
Just to let you know, no one at Summit will own up to anything on my
broken motor. They firmly believe the lifters they are selling are
"right" for an AMC 360 and that I must have done something "wrong"
because the manufacturers have told them that consolidating the lifter
part numbers together (AMC and MOPAR) is OK.
I have placed the lifters next to each other for comparison. Yes, they
are the same shape, same dimensions and look like they should work. With
the solid top versus a top with an oiling hole, there is no way a hollow
pushrod is ever going to get any oil. Also the bands are in a different
place on the horizonal and what little oil they provided in the bore
wasn't nearly enough to do much good. Until my final bill at the machine
shop is tallied I don't really know what kind of claim from a dollars
standpoint to pursue. I am going to go ahead and re-pull the engine and
tranny out this weekend to make sure the bottom end is clean and debris
free. My valve guides were all but gone so the metal had to go
somewhere. Probably mostly in the pan and filter but who knows ?
Thanks Todd for the article. It was very interesting to see them
discussing the oiling issue. Wished I had paid more attention when I was
opening the box and dropping them down the rabbit hole. The part numbers
on my order are:
Lifters (E914641) which was part of a set that went with an Erson cam
(E710121).
As I said, the cam fit like a charm. In fact the engine went together
beautifully. Rings and pistons were great. Even sounds pretty good.
Last word of caution: Buy from and deal with the AMC vendors. They are
in business to serve you and their prices are the same or lower in most
cases that the catalogue guys. Even if they are a little higher they
will be there to work with you if you have an issue after the fact. Jeff
Kennedy sold me a clutch last year. I put it in and drove the car a
little but something seemed wrong. I took the car to a transmission shop
to have them check it out and set up the peddle etc. Comes to find out
the clutch was warped from the manufacturer. I sent it back off to Jeff
and no problem, I got a credit for the return. No BS and no hassle. I've
had excellent success with APD and APP as well. I know Andre, Nick and
Jim Webb also have super reputations so give those guys a chance first.
J T in FL
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Four piston brakes (was American Parts Depot) (Frank Swygert)
2. Re: noisy after rebuild (Frank Swygert)
3. Re: 65 parts (seat belts) (Frank Swygert)
4. noisy after rebuild - con't (Brien Tourville)
5. Re: '07 AMC NATIONALS - 1 WEEK TO GO! (James Shadwick)
6. 500HP 401 Build (Brien Tourville)
7. Re: scrambler (Sandwich Maker)
8. Re: noisy after rebuild (Sandwich Maker)
9. Re: Response to Oiling Problems (Dan Curtis)
10. Re: Response to Oiling Problems and lifters (Todd Tomason)
11. 2 Jeep Wagoneers for sale, Spokane, WA (Mine) (Jamie Smith)
12. Re: Response to Oiling Problems and lifters
(Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
13. Who needs 235/60/14's? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
14. Shock specs? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:17:33 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Four piston brakes (was American Parts Depot)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46D7500D.5010902@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I don't think any of the Brembo or Wilwood brakes will bolt directly to
the old Bendix brackets, but both have the dimensions of their calipers
on-line. AMC used the same four piston Bendix calipers as everyone else
did in the early 60s, so they may have a Mustang or Corvette
replacement. Many simply replace everything from the caliper bracket out
with a later AMC brake setup, 79-83 Concord/Spirit/Pacer is the easiest
to get parts for and least expensive (parts wise). Any 71+ will work,
just be prepared to pay a premium for rotors with 71-78 disc brakes.
The reason the early four piston calipers leak is the placement of the
seal. The seal is on the piston and wears the bore slightly oval. All
new designs have the seal in the body and use a steel piston -- no wear
or leaks, and if you do get wear replace the piston. That's why the
bores are sleeved with stainless inserts to correct leaking -- stainless
is much harder than the original cast iron bores plus it won't rust if
the car sets a lot (like most muscle collector cars do).
--------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 08:39:33 +0100
From: "John Eckersley" <john.eckersley@xxxxxxxxx>
APD have been great with me - shipping parts to England no problem and
excellent service. Doug has been great at answering my e-mail
questions.
As for the calipers, mine are shot too. I spent hours dismantling and
rebuilding them and honed the bores, only to reassemble and find they
are no better. As soon as I get a decent pressure built up using the
vac bleeding kit I have, fuild just pours out of the bores -
interestingly, it's the lower outer bore on each caliper that's bad.
I was considering whether there might be a better option than resleeved
calipers (not least because I have to ship the old ones to the USA and
that ain't cheap) - I hear the later single pot setup is more reliable
but I have been told the spindles and other fittings need changing. I
was wondering if there are any "performance"
calipers (wilwood, brembo, whatever) that would fit in place of the 4
pot bendix ones.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:28:16 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] noisy after rebuild
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx, lotharamc@xxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46D75290.4080204@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
You should be fine with overall oil pressure. Cam bearings (or any
bearings)aren't the issue with that kind of pressure. You probably
aren't getting enough oil to the rocker shaft though. That's a common
problem with the early 232. AMC issued two fixes. One was an external
oil line, the other was a modified head bolt. The bolt is the best way
to go -- see this site for instructions:
http://www.mattsoldcars.com/techinfo/boltmod.shtml. That will fix the
oil delivery problem.
You stated running the engine for 15 minutes after installing the
lifters. Did you run it for that long at a fast idle? I'd run it the
same as breaking in a cam -- 15-20 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm. The whole
reason is to break the lifters in with the cam. That might fix the
pushrod rotation problems. If not you may have to replace the
non-rotating pushrods. They likely have some uneven ear on the ends or
are very slightly bent. Either situation will cause them to have a
"favorite" spot.
----------
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 12:49:47 +0000
From: "Andrew Blomer" <lotharamc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
This relates to some discussions recently. This is on a 66 232 in a
Classic
I just did a rering job along with a newly ground crank. I didn't change
the
cam bearings, or cam. I did replace the lifters because I forgot about
them
the first time I turned the engine over (physically) without the head
on.
About half of them fell out and landed in the grimmy pan I had under the
engine stand.
It is all together and running now, but noisy. I have 60 psi oil
pressure at
startup, and 45-50 when its warm. When I start it after letting it sit
overnight, I get very loud lifter/valvetrain type noises for about 3
seconds, and then it quiets down. It is almost as loud as a bearing type
knock, but sounds like a valvetrain type sound. After that, it sounds
like a
small Kabota deisel tractor. Kinda groully ticking. Oh yeah, I did run
the
engine for 15 minutes to try to match the lifters to the cam.
Thats what I have....so far what I have done...
I removed the valve cover to listen and see if anything was wrong. The
rockers seemed a little dry so I removed the bolt where the oil comes
in,
and found I had a partial clog. I cleaned that location out, along with
all
the other bolt locations, in order, down the shaft to make sure there
wasn't
another clog down the line. I did this while it was running so the oil
would
push out whatever I got loose. When I was done, there was plenty of oil
up
top, and the consistent noise had reduced some, but not even close to
what
it should be.
Now I notice that the marks I put on the pushrods for reassembly are
spinning. All except for 3 of them at various unrelated locations. 2 are
spinning like tops (1 rev per second), and the rest are turning about 1
rev
per 4-5 seconds. Concerning the 3 that arn't turning. If I turn one
(any) by
hand about 90 degrees, it will rotate around at the 4-5 second pace
until it
gets to its favorite spot and stop again.
My deduction.... I think the loud startup noise is from the old worn cam
bearings allowing the oil to drain down overnight. The lifters drain and
take a few seconds to pump up again. The quiter constant
clacking/ticking is
from the new lifters not conforming to the old cam, not rotating, and
probably wearing down the cam lobe the more I run it.
The recent discussion content?... I broke it in with 15W40 rotela, and
had
assembly lube on the cam. (new lifters, old cam)
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? I just put this thing back
together and am not looking forward to taking it apart again.
I know this is long, but I wanted to get all the information I could out
there.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:39:04 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 65 parts (seat belts)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46D75518.9050805@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Juliano's (http://www.julianos.com/seat_belts.html) has the chrome lift
latch style belts used in the early 60s by AMC, but of course lap belt
only. Juliano's also has good shoulder belt kits that can be fitted in
just about anything. Check some of their installation photos.
------------
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:42:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
i am in need of front seatbelts. dont care if they
have the rambler emblem on them or not. something that
may look a little more period correct seatbelts. i
have a set but they have the bright orange "press"
button.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 20:11:35 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] noisy after rebuild - con't
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46D75CB7.7080306@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Realign the cam bearing lube holes with the feed holes.
What are your valve springs about - dual coils ?
Since you'll have the heads off anyways - have the
Shop 'dial in' your spring pressures for the New Camshaft.
They can determine if you'll experience coil binding or
interference with the guides then too - cheap insurance.
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 19:38:19 +0000
From: "Andrew Blomer" <lotharamc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] noisy after rebuild
I will definately be inspecting the cam bearings, as it seems I will be
dissassembling again. Those side plates would sure be nice wouldn't
they.
The amount of dissassembly would be cut in half. Alas the head must come
off.
I'm going to get my new cam and lifters in a set. I think I"ll get the
Comp
Cam, if I have to replace it, what the hell, I might as well get a
little
more lift.
Where do I find EOS? I've never happened accross it before. Then again
I've
never looked before.
Well, unless anyone else jumps in with a question, I'll just report back
when I find the glaring problem, or finish it, and have my fire
breathing
.416 lift cammed beasty NOISLESSLY rambling down the street.
Noislessly.....eh...relatively speaking of course.
Andy
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:43:10 -0600
From: James Shadwick <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] '07 AMC NATIONALS - 1 WEEK TO GO!
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <46D7641E.3070108@xxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Jock........
The wife and I would like one 2X and one 3X T-Shirt.....plan to pick
them up on Thursday....
Thanks,
Jim Shadwick
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 20:55:58 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] 500HP 401 Build
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46D7671E.6010701@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
links to the article pages:
http://www.javelinamx.com/JavHome/articles/hr0698-1.jpg
http://www.javelinamx.com/JavHome/articles/hr0698-2.jpg
http://www.javelinamx.com/JavHome/articles/hr0698-3.jpg
http://www.javelinamx.com/JavHome/articles/hr0698-4.jpg
http://www.javelinamx.com/JavHome/articles/hr0698-5.jpg
--
Brien
NEW YORK
eagle registry #501
eagle kammback registry
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:01:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] scrambler
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200708310101.l7V11N708972@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: "Garry Nordstrom" <gasnordstrom@xxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" So, best tub replacement for non off road use,
someone makes fiberglass tubs. in your cold it might crack, but it
won't rust!
just found: shellvalley.com in platte ctr, ne...
i was going to suggest a galvanized heavy frame from
montanajeepframes.com, but they seem to be gone. i don't think
matkins has anything comparable.
" best way to mount the 360,
stock 304 setup?
" and doing a posi rear end.
i'd suggest a fulltime 4wd setup like an '80s np218 series or '90s
nv242 and detroit truetracs f&r. maybe a late fulltime t/c? nv245?
since you [she] don't need a low range, a np118 series from an eagle
or a nv140 would be possible too.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:06:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] noisy after rebuild
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200708310106.l7V16QK09122@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
"
"
"
" EOS is General Motors engine Oil Supplement. Someone has the part
number here I think. Most dealers don't stock it. I might be able to
find a part number for it. I would have to go look on the archives here
or over on the Strokers list. EOS is high in ZDDP and such for breakin
purposes mostly, but a lot of people are taking to running it in flat
tappet engines.
if you can't find eos, the other thing is the oil rating. it's not
enough to just get diesel oil like rotella; check the api rating logo.
to get high zddp you need oil rated si or ci or earlier. some diesel
oil is rated ci but some is cm, just as most spark oil these days is
sm rated - low zddp.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 21:50:50 -0500
From: Dan Curtis <d.curtis@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Response to Oiling Problems
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <af9fff12714bcfbe6f40ce5099fdf457@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hmm..now you've got me concerned about the cam kit I got from Mad Dog
Racing for my 390. I haven't closed the engine up yet and will
definitely check the new lifters to ensure they are the same as the old
ones.
Thanks for the heads up!
Regards,
Dan Curtis
forum moderator for
www.amazingmusclecars.com
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 22:12:41 -0500
From: Todd Tomason <jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Response to Oiling Problems and lifters
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <200708302212.41615.jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Jeff,
I'm in the process of building my first engine, so this issue has me
concerned. I've been doing some research on the web this evening, and
it
sounds like the AMC lifters and the Mopar lifters are virtually
identical.
They're so close that most of the aftermarket parts suppliers have made
a
single part that fits both. I don't think they're mixing up the AMC 360
and
the Mopar 360. They parts are really that close. This article about
Mopar
Magnum engines mentions using AMC lifters.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0507phr_mopar_magnum_engine_specs/
But here's what puzzles me. Some of the Mopar engines don't provide oil
through the pushrods, so they don't require a hole in the lifter. If
you
were going to make part to fit both, wouldn't you make it with the oil
hole?
Do you have the manufacturer and part numbers for the parts you
received? I
can't figure out where Summit Racing even found solid-top lifters.
Todd
On Thursday 30 August 2007 14:38, Thomas, Jeff wrote:
> I have a comment on a recent meltdown that my AMC 360 experienced
> related to new lifters. I am hoping this story will help save a lot of
> you a great deal of pain and money.
>
> I bought a cam and lifter set from Summit ealier this year and got
> everything installed in July 2007. The problem I ran into was zero oil
> to the top end of the motor. I had good pressure for about 45 minutes
> during the break-in and I thought everything was fine. Took the car
for
> its maiden voyage and after about 20 miles lost all my oil pressure
> suddenly and the car got incredibly hot. When we got it home and tore
it
> apart the heads were as dry as a bone, no oil circulating. All 16
> pushrods were either bent or broken.
>
> When I pulled the "new" lifters out and compared them to the old AMC
> lifters I had replaced I found a terrible problem. The new lifters,
> while physically the same as the old AMC lifters, had the oiling band
in
> a different location than the originals. The second issue was the new
> lifters had no oiling hole drilled through the center. The AMC lifters
> clearly have a squirt hole for oil through the center and an oiling
band
> in a completely different place than the new lifters. I called Summit
> and questioned the tech guy. His answer floored me "the supplier has
> grouped all AMC 360 lifters with the MOPAR 360 lifters. They are
> basically the same motor so the lifters should work the same way." I
> said "you're kidding right ?" and he said "No. That's the way our
> in-house tech manuals read and that's the way we sell them". Sure
enough
> if you go on-line to Jeggs, Summit or look in a Mellings book the
> lifters all have the same part number. In other words AMC 360 and
MOPAR
> 360 are the same to them. I don't mean the Chrysler 360 that's in the
> Grand Wagoneer I'm talking about the MOPAR 360. The cam fit like a
glove
> so they got it partly right.
>
> I have been meaning to post this thread to the AMC community at large
to
> warn everyone to take a close look at their lifters before they drop
> them down the bore and fire it up. I am at least $400 down in
rebuilding
> the heads not to mention scuffing/tearing up the paint in my engine
> compartment when I pull out the block and tranny this weekend. Pay
> attention to your business. I didn't and I should have known better.
The
> best advise is to buy your stuff from an AMC vendor that sells the
right
> parts for a living. If I do another engine I will definirely be
talking
> to Doug, Jeff, Jim, Bruce, Nick, Andre etc. Those are the guys that
know
> what you need. Best of luck from Florida.
>
> Jeff Thomas
> Orlando Fl
> 407-297-9500
>
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 23:22:58 -0700
From: "Jamie Smith" <oconner51@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] 2 Jeep Wagoneers for sale, Spokane, WA (Mine)
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY139-DAV12E60701DD539DE075A94EBFCE0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I just purchased 4 jeep wagoneers. I only wanted 2 of them but it was a
package deal. I have them temporarily stored on someone elses property.
One is a 78 and one is a 81. Both good projects. The 78 runs but has a
knock. Drives good. Everything works (lights, etc.) I was told the 81
runs but I have not had time to mess with it. Both have 360's. Both have
alloy rims. $650 each obo.. Email me for more information. Pictures also
available. Need to go ASAP. Was supposed to have them gone by 9/01/07. I
already sold one of the 4 but now need to sell 2 more.
would sell both for $1100.
James Smith
Spokane, WA
oconner51@xxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:oconner51@xxxxxxxxxxx>
1966 Rambler American 22 Station Wagon
1978 GMC 3+3 3/4 ton pickup (pending)
1978 Jeep Wagoneer (for sale)
1981 Jeep Wagoneer (for sale)
1982 Jeep Wagoneer
1984 AMC Eagle Limited Station Wagon
1986 AMC Eagle Station Wagon
1986 Jeep Comanche Pickup
1991 Dodge Grand Caravan (parts)
1992 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 12:58:27 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Response to Oiling Problems and lifters
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<083120071258.6072.46D8107300019CA4000017B82216549976CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059
D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
That's what I thought too.
I've always thought the Dodge 360 lifters where an interchange.
I'm wondering if they misspackaged a set of 273 non oil feed lifters?
You would think that if the lfiters are wrong someone would own up to
it?
was the possibilty of wrong lifters pursued with Summit?
I've had that happen twice ot me recently.
A GM power window switch in a sealed box from Rockauto and an incorrect
"new" master cylinder with no signs of it being in and out of the box.
If packaging gets out of synch at the plant the wrong crap goes in the
box!
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
" I was different before people dared to be different"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Todd Tomason <jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Jeff,
>
> I'm in the process of building my first engine, so this issue has me
> concerned. I've been doing some research on the web this evening, and
it
> sounds like the AMC lifters and the Mopar lifters are virtually
identical.
> They're so close that most of the aftermarket parts suppliers have
made a
> single part that fits both. I don't think they're mixing up the AMC
360 and
> the Mopar 360. They parts are really that close. This article about
Mopar
> Magnum engines mentions using AMC lifters.
>
>
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0507phr_mopar_magnum_engine_specs/
>
> But here's what puzzles me. Some of the Mopar engines don't provide
oil
> through the pushrods, so they don't require a hole in the lifter. If
you
> were going to make part to fit both, wouldn't you make it with the oil
hole?
>
> Do you have the manufacturer and part numbers for the parts you
received? I
> can't figure out where Summit Racing even found solid-top lifters.
>
> Todd
>
> On Thursday 30 August 2007 14:38, Thomas, Jeff wrote:
> > I have a comment on a recent meltdown that my AMC 360 experienced
> > related to new lifters. I am hoping this story will help save a lot
of
> > you a great deal of pain and money.
> >
> > I bought a cam and lifter set from Summit ealier this year and got
> > everything installed in July 2007. The problem I ran into was zero
oil
> > to the top end of the motor. I had good pressure for about 45
minutes
> > during the break-in and I thought everything was fine. Took the car
for
> > its maiden voyage and after about 20 miles lost all my oil pressure
> > suddenly and the car got incredibly hot. When we got it home and
tore it
> > apart the heads were as dry as a bone, no oil circulating. All 16
> > pushrods were either bent or broken.
> >
> > When I pulled the "new" lifters out and compared them to the old AMC
> > lifters I had replaced I found a terrible problem. The new lifters,
> > while physically the same as the old AMC lifters, had the oiling
band in
> > a different location than the originals. The second issue was the
new
> > lifters had no oiling hole drilled through the center. The AMC
lifters
> > clearly have a squirt hole for oil through the center and an oiling
band
> > in a completely different place than the new lifters. I called
Summit
> > and questioned the tech guy. His answer floored me "the supplier has
> > grouped all AMC 360 lifters with the MOPAR 360 lifters. They are
> > basically the same motor so the lifters should work the same way." I
> > said "you're kidding right ?" and he said "No. That's the way our
> > in-house tech manuals read and that's the way we sell them". Sure
enough
> > if you go on-line to Jeggs, Summit or look in a Mellings book the
> > lifters all have the same part number. In other words AMC 360 and
MOPAR
> > 360 are the same to them. I don't mean the Chrysler 360 that's in
the
> > Grand Wagoneer I'm talking about the MOPAR 360. The cam fit like a
glove
> > so they got it partly right.
> >
> > I have been meaning to post this thread to the AMC community at
large to
> > warn everyone to take a close look at their lifters before they drop
> > them down the bore and fire it up. I am at least $400 down in
rebuilding
> > the heads not to mention scuffing/tearing up the paint in my engine
> > compartment when I pull out the block and tranny this weekend. Pay
> > attention to your business. I didn't and I should have known better.
The
> > best advise is to buy your stuff from an AMC vendor that sells the
right
> > parts for a living. If I do another engine I will definirely be
talking
> > to Doug, Jeff, Jim, Bruce, Nick, Andre etc. Those are the guys that
know
> > what you need. Best of luck from Florida.
> >
> > Jeff Thomas
> > Orlando Fl
> > 407-297-9500
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 13:46:02 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Amc-list] Who needs 235/60/14's?
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC List)
Cc: "AMC-DelMarVA: yahoogroups.com" <AMC-DelMarVA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<083120071346.24268.46D81B99000D111A00005ECC2215593414CDCBCD0A0C079D9F05
9D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Just stumbled across these, I know the issue of finding 14" tires comes
up and thought I'd pass it along.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=YOK%2D810
14&N=700+210+115&autoview=sku
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
" I was different before people dared to be different"
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 14:22:54 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Amc-list] Shock specs?
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC List)
Cc: Strokers <strokers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "AMC-DelMarVA:
yahoogroups.com" <AMC-DelMarVA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<083120071422.13813.46D8243C000E4E24000035F52215567074CDCBCD0A0C079D9F05
9D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Does anyone have a link to or Adobe or other version of a book on shock
specs?
I used to have one, ran a search a while back and could not find one.
I'm going to need to find some one off shocks to use on the rear of the
American when I swap in the 9" rear.
I have old replacement shocks on the rear now that aren't even gas
charged, so I figure while I'm doing new spring plates it would be a
good time to start fresh. I'd like to be able to get something that's
actually modern and replaceable years down the road.
Plus the old spec books are just plain good reading!
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
" I was different before people dared to be different"
------------------------------
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End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 8, Issue 60
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