Re: [Amc-list] Replacing strut-rod bushing

[farna@xxxxxxx]

I believe I recall telling Tom about the half-n-half setup, but didn't want to take credit just in case we came up with it individually. In any case, Tom has it well documented. I noticed a lot harsher ride with pure poly bushings and figured out it was the restriction in suspension travel causing the problem. The rear rubber solves that, but there are harder jolts due to the firmness of the front poly bushing. Cut a rubber one down and it pushes through though, so there's not much choice. That is unless you get drastic. 

I ran the half-n-half setup for about five years. When I built my current wagon a little over four years ago I took a more drastic, but permanent (and much better in the long run) approach. I cut the original strut rods in half and welded the back half of a pair of salvaged Concord strut rods on. This made the strut rods totally adjustable and lets me use Concord bushings. You don't have to have a pair of adjustable strut rods to do this though. A 5/8" (I think that's the correct size -- get a 80-83 Concord bushing set and check the ID of the steel sleeve) threaded steel stud (grade 8!!) 6-8" long can be welded on the bushing end of the original strut rod, which is cut off to allow proper placement of the bushing. Any competent welding shop can do the work. A good welding machine and experienced welder is needed -- I did it when I was an instructor. I'm a bit out of practice now, would have to weld a couple scrap pieces up before welding one to be used. All I can say is it wo
 rks gr
eat. 

One word of caution -- you still can't increase caster much. Pre 70 AMCs were designed for 0 degrees caster. With bias ply tires that was great, but radials like a bit of caster to track straight. Lack of caster is why your car is touchy in cross winds. Even with the adjustable strut rods I can only get 2.5-3.0 degrees of caster when 6-10 are really needed. Coupled with a quick ratio rack and pinion steering I have a very sensitive to steering input car. I plan on making a brake adapter/loweing plate that moves the centerline of the spindle up and back about 3/4" -- when I get the time (who knows when!!). I think that will correct the caster problem. I won't know if that's too much caster until I try it -- might make it want to steer so straight it's harder to turn (but I doubt it)!!




----------
Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:22:40 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

On Sat, 2007-06-02 at 13:52 -0500, Armand Eshleman wrote:
> Yeah, you said it Tom.
> 
> And apparently you agree too with the poly strut rod bushing setup, or have
> you found something even better???

I plan on front half urethane, rear half "rubber" (replacement style)
for my daily driver. They might ride harsher, and make more noise, but
at least they'll not wear out stupidly (I hope).

I think Frank is running that combo? I don't think I'm the one that
thought it up. It's what I ended up with in my 63 Classic that's got the
older non-adjustable strut rods. No choice there! See
http://wps.com/AMC/Strut-bushing/index.html . I still have never heard
from anyone who drives one of those cars what they're doing for
replacement bushings.


--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)
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