Re: [Amc-list] 1970 Rebel Fuel Guage
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Re: [Amc-list] 1970 Rebel Fuel Guage



>My fuel guage stays on empty even whe tank is full. Ho do I determine 
>whether the problem is with the guage itself or in the sensing unit in the 
>tank?


Just hold a match up to the fuel filler neck and look in.

OK, OK, here's the real guide, from the 70 TSM:

Sending Unit Tests ---------------------------

1.  Check to make sure guage has a good ground.

2.  Have a sip of beer.  Better make it two.

3.  Off-car test with an ohmmmmmmmmmmmmeter -- Connect ohmmeter leads to 
each other and zero the meter.

4.  Connect leads to indicator terminal and pick-up tube.

5.  Raise the float arm to the upper stop.  The meter should read 9.6 ohms, 
more or less.

6.  Go have dinner with your kids.  Or someone else's kids, it doesn't matter.

7.  Allow the float arm to fall to its lower stop -- UNDER ITS OWN WEIGHT 
ONLY, and at roughly the same attitude as when it is installed in the 
car.  If it doesn't fall to its bottom stop, it is defective.

8.  Tape this month's centerfold on your workbench so you have something to 
keep your mind off the highly flammable fuel vapor now permeating your 
workshop.

9.  If it does, it should measure 73 ohms, plus or minus 12 (geez, what a 
fudge factor!).

10.  If the sender fails any of these tests, it is defective and must be 
replaced.

Fuel Guage Tests ----------------------------------

1.  If all indicators fail to operate or are grossly incorrect, check the 
instrument panel voltage regulator before harassing the fuel guage.

2.  Disconnect the wire from the fuel tank sending unit, and connect it to 
a known good sending unit.  [now, where did I put my spare NOS fuel tank 
sender...  D'OH!!!]

3.  Connect a jumper wire to a good ground.

4.  Go for a walk, and finish your beer.  Get another one.

5.  Turn on the ignition switch.

6.  Move the float arm to the upper stop.  The indicator should read "F" or 
"full".

7.  Allow the float arm to return to its lower stop.  The indicator should 
now read "E".

8.  If the indicator now reads correctly, the tank sending unit is defective.

9.  Swear quietly at the thought of having to drop the fuel tank to get at 
that danged sending unit.

10.  If the indicator still reads improperly or is erratic, the indicator 
or the wiring to the indicator is faulty.

11.  Nip off some more beer.

12.  Disconnect the main harness from the instrument cluster.

13.  Call up your best friend and ask him to bring over more beer.

14.  Connect the lead from the test sending unit to the fuel indicator pin 
terminal at the rear of the instrument cluster.

15.  Connect a jumper wire from the pickup tube of the test sending unit to 
a steering column mounting bolt to provide a good ground for the test unit.

16.  Finish your second beer, open one more, chug it, and get another.

17.  Connect a jumper from the ignition terminal of the main harness plug 
to the ignition terminal of the cluster.

18.  Repeat the test for the tank sending unit.

19.  Throw a wrench at the cat trying to sneak into your garage.

20.  If the indicator does not read correctly or is erratic, the indicator 
is defective and must be replaced.

21.  If the indicator reads correctly, the wire between the indicator and 
tank is defective and must be repaired.

22.  Finish up the rest of your six pack, and call your friend again to ask 
where he is with the beer.

-- end --


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