The bolts needed for the 82-83 calipers are 3/8" 24 IIRC, I know they are the 3/8" fine thread andyway. They aren't as easy to find as some of the other sizes. IRRC I did buy mine from Speedway as they had the best price on them. They can be expensive little buggers if you buy from the wrong place. Also as an interesting side note, if you have front brake hoses on a 69 American with the short steel tube length you can actually get use them directlyon the 82-83 Caliper. They screw right in! I installed mine that way for a short time period, but I have lowering plates in place and they moved the caliper out far enough the line laid on the upright a little too tightly for my liking. Without the lowerign plate spacing the caliper out, You may evry well be able to use stock hoses on one! New of course! You need to forward mount the calipers for this. Yes, they work fine this way. -- Mark Price markprice242ATadelphia.net Morgantown, WV ---- "Swygert wrote: > Ref: message from Mike Bailey -- son wants to convert to disc brakes, > concerned about deviating from stock... > > ---------- > This is one of those safety related items that should be considered if > the car is to be driven in normal traffic on a regular basis, even if > it's not very often. It's easily reversed as long as the original parts > are retained. If this is a restored or "survivor" car that's going to > only be taken out for shows or the occasional "Sunday drive", keep the > drums. Just make sure they're in good condition and kept that way. > > If you convert to discs, simply store the drum set-up. Make sure all > bare metal parts, particularly the inside of the drums, is coated with > grease. Store in heavy plastic bags with a desiccant package. Should be > able to get them from... well, somewhere! > > The disc setup is all bolt-on. You'll need a set of 70 Javelin disc > brake hoses -- provided the calipers are 79-81. 79-81 uses NPT hose > ends, 82-83 straight thread GM type. Use banjo type hoses and bolts on > the 82-83 GM calipers (from a hot-rod shop, or www.speedwaymotors.com). > > No irreversible changes are necessary. Make sure you save the original > bolts for the drum setup and use new grade 8 bolts of the correct length > for the disc setup. You can use the Concord bolts, but some will be to > long (they can be cut). > > The original master cylinder will work as long as the residual pressure > valve is removed from the front brake portion. This will keep it looking > original under the hood. Use an adjustable proportioning valve in the > rear line under the car, or get a 66-70 Mustang repro proportioning > valve. It's not the exact same style as the 68-70 Javelin/AMX, but > should be close to the same pressure threshold. Cars with proportioning > valves in the rear line use the same junction block as drum brake cars. > You can install the prop valve where the line goes to the rear axle. You > will have to drill a hole to bolt the prop valve to the floor bend the > original line a bit (move it out of the original floor clip), but that's > it. > > Everything except the rotors and calipers will appear to be original. > Most people will never notice, and most car show judges will consider it > a safety upgrade, or just drop a few points. It's worth it to not pile > the car up somewhere. > _______________________________________________ > Amc-list mailing list > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list