AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 51
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 51
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- Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 04:32:25 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Body Work - AMC style - (Brien Tourville)
2. Wiring (Don Johnson)
3. Re: Wiring (JOE FULTON)
4. AMC Progress (JOE FULTON)
5. Re: '69 Rambler/232/T-14 clutch needed (BUS-ENG)
6. Re: 62 classic rear axle id (farna@xxxxxxx)
7. Re: Wiring (Tom Jennings)
8. Re: Wiring (Mark Price)
9. Re: NP-129 in Michigan (Spro)
10. Name Those AMC "Specials"!! (farna@xxxxxxx)
11. Re: SJ Axle width? (Jim Blair)
12. Re; Rear Axle ratio choices, a question (John Elle)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 10:13:36 -0500
From: "Brien Tourville" <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Body Work - AMC style -
To: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <456968D0.16513.9ED7B2C@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
: For those AMC Listers "who shoulda' known better" :
I had to research my way out of physical
wreckage - including two 'Solid' motor-cycle
wrecks - here is what works:
"Life Extension" by Durk Pearson & Sandy Shaw
'a practical approach' : out of print > try Amazon.
two research chemists > she was dying of cancer <
it is the cook-book of Bio Nutrient Repair.
Book is 2" thick > she beat the cancer using corrected
Bio Chemistry > via Nutrients > they downloaded all
University Research world-wide on the subject and distilled it.
> these 'suggestions' work <
- the below is my usual daily / yearly regime -
but the real effort is securing the goods &
working with them regularly
to Repair and Prevent
illness / injury.
>Save this Outline <
www.all-one.com
company is:
Nutri Tech
you want:
'Phyto Green' > 30 day supply canister.
Retail is $40.00 each.
1-800-235-5727 > call & ask for their
Free 6 page Product Disclosure "Going Green"
written by an MD > worth the read to understand
the expense.
used in Famine Relief > it generates no toxicity
that 'normal' food does in order to deliver 100% corrected
necessary chemistry to cell structures.
'Normal Food' > is 'recreational' <if you're taking All One,
since it doesn't provide you with the Bio-Chemistry
necessary for repairs > our bodies do not make most chems
it did in our Teens for repairs & growth >
no repair chems > no repairs < and 'Normal Food'
does not even show up on the chart - which is why
when you're older - it takes longer.........
Where as your multiple vitamin will have 5 to 9 micro
units of something > All One is a corrected balance of
51 - measured in Mg units.
Cross linking Phyto Green chems
provides chem structures needed
for repairs > without the correct
elements, repairs done slowly with scarring / distortion or not at
all.
The Genetic Helix is the 'Pit Boss' > reads Bio Chem balances
in the body and orders repairs - or not - based upon
Nutrient level readings in the body > 24 / 7 / 365 .
----------------------------All One Phyto Green ----------
Mix the one heaping coffee scooper of 'Phyto Green' with:
Westsoy Plain 'Plus' enriched Soy Milk > measure out
a Tall glass and a half > place in blender > hit blender for
6 seconds > don't over-blend to aeration.
Yes, this tastes fine. Drink twice a day > once for Breakfast ,
once before retiring as you'll repair during sleep.
------------------------------ next -----------------
Glucosamine Chondoroiten
get a bottle of this from your Rx or Health Food Store
or order from:
www.puritan.com > order their catalogue while there <
read it as you would a 'Free AMC Parts' advertisement.
You must take Nutrients to get this to work!
When I hear 'it doesn't work' > and their diet
is Burger King - Budwiser - Twinkies and Pasta > helloooo!?
Those who use the All One and Glucosamine get
their Joint cartilage 'Rebuilt'.
if you're not allergic to Shell Fish & Fish Oil in general,
get large bottles of:
Omeg 3 Oil Capsules:
look for the highest EPA and DHA count as they
vary.
the OMACOR - which is Prescription Omega 3
is :
EPA 465mg
DHA 375mg
take 1 gel cap 4 times daily without fail.
Replenishes all the Oil Sacs in the Muscles -
Tissues - Brain, which by now are collapsed or empty.
At 4 per day, it will take Two Months just to 'top off',
that is how depleted 99% of Americans are.
Omeg 3 will prevent 90% of Heart Attacks and Strokes
according to the American Stroke Association -
improves nerve signalling and thought / mood,
joint sizing and Health -
it is Prescribed Rx to those who have Heart issues
and pre / post Stroke victims - depression -
forgetfullness - etc.
Read up on Omega 3 on Google>
it is necessary for an incredible amount of reasons
and most people go without until things go wrong.
No, you can't get this from 'Normal Food':
any Oil, once heated, generates 'Free Radicals',
which cause cell damage and cancers -
so eating cooked 'Fish' , although better than nothing
according to some Authors, does NOT qualify.
-------------------------------- fluid cycle ---------
human AMC bodies have fluid cycles that move damaged
tissue chemistry out and replenish repair materials daily.
when idle or sleeping, the fluid cycle virtually shuts down -
which is why MDs want you up and about ASAP - and
walking exercise for the age-ing is always in print.
any type of stimuli such as an electric hand held massager
placed anywhere, turns the Fluid Cycle back on.
I fall asleep with the electric hand held Massager
on every night - have for years:
just don't fall asleep with the 'Heat' element
on all night.
Neck area injury:
lying down, place it at side base of neck above
shoulder - turn it on low & enjoy.
This will restore shape and location of all the soft materials
and nerve bundles - like a D'ent Puller'..........
when sitting around, place a hand atop of massager -
it will assist in rebuilding the finger / hand joint cartilage.
took one year to do this using the Phyto Green and
Glucosamine Chondroiten and it works in the
spine and neck as well.
I destroyed my finger joints doing construction and
a side as a dishwasher in a three dining-room Restaurant
where each piece was washed by hand before hitting the
Sanitizer.
Joints broke down and fingers collapsed backwards &
I 'retired'. I then 'discovered' the electric massager.
Using the electric massager, your body will be
running in corrected repair chemistry @ 6x the rate
as would without - and - the vibration motion
brings the distortion out of cartilage enabling it
to return to:
'Fullness .......and Shape'........-
[ ....like a '"aCross Your Heart
Bra'"........!!...{??!?} ...]
without the electric massager shaping motions -
the cartilage will remain deformed and nerve bundles
pinched from the impact compress'd tissue staying
d'ented'.
--------------------- stretching -----------
'some' injuries are mostly upper body,
but the frame distortion passes from spine disc to
spine disc up or down, distorting the spine column,
pinching nerve bundles, compounding the pain and
sapping energy.
Aligning the spine gently once a week, will go a long way toward
recovery > here's how:
Under your Shower Massage > allow musculature to
warm up.
Adjust a pair of crutches to fit snugly just under arm-pits.
Gently bend the knees - allowing the crutches to press
upwards - thereby stretching the spine which will align
the discs and nerve bundles.
> snake dance the spine
and the parts go back into place without the $65.00ea.
Chiropractors Bill attached......
[ send me a 401 std. / std.
crank & we'll
call it even ] ;) .
Say someone wracked their collar bone connections ?
Go slowly - do a small amount each shower -
the area needs exercise and this is the best way to get alignment
repairs going.
Shower Massage spray should hit just above your forehead >
into the 'once and mighty' hairline.
This area 'syncs' the spray pulse to nerve response and releases
the muscle tension > 'Hydro-Therapy' < > that is what it is
all about. Stretch the spine and collar bone connections gently.
Placing a plastic milk crate in the shower > piece of carpet
or such on top to sit on > & working out the kinks under
the Shower Massage is the second half of the exercise.
All the above - for four months - don't lose sight
of using the Phyto Green / Soy Milk / Omega 3 / Glucosamine
Chondroiten / Massager, once you start feeling healthier.
You might vote to continue
as maintenance items, since the results are that good.
You'll not face a Stroke or Heart Attack in your Future either.
Try finding that 'Option' at Wal Mart!
OK > back to AMC Rust,......... whos' got a 'cheap crank' they'll
part with ? ;)
=Bt=
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 12:34:13 -0500
From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Wiring
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <007301c71181$16b80300$6400a8c0@DONS>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Another question.
Once I finish painting the car (70 AMX), it will be time to put the wiring back in.
I plan to install a security system with remote door locks.
Running the wires from the door to the interior of the car, is where I need help.
At the bottom of the front door post, there is a punch out, which I assume is for electric windows on a Javelin, (again assuming same door post used on the AMX).
There is no corresponding punch out on the front of the door.
Can anyone out there send me a picture of the factory wiring from door to interior?
If not, I would appreciate any any suggestions on how this should be done.
I need to make this decision before I paint the door opening.
Thanks for any help.
Don
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 11:56:10 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Wiring
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061126195610.91356.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Don,
Neither power windows nor power door locks were ever
avaliable on the Javelin. The only wiring which went
into the door could have been for door speakers for
the AM/FM radio installation, but I'm not even sure
about that.
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 12:06:13 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] AMC Progress
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061126200613.39190.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I finally made some progress on the drivetrain of my
77 Gremlin X this weekend. I had finished installing
the replacement tranny cooler lines a few days ago. I
had installed a rebuilt nonfeedback BBD carb but had
not been able to run the engine for final tuning
because the old tranny lines leaked.
I had mounted the air pump incorrectly and the belt
didn't line up with the lower pulley, so after
figuring out that puzzle and correcting the
misalignment I was able to start the car.
I quickly found (well fairly quckly) that the
Prestolite distributor had no vacuum advance nor did
it have any mechanical advance. I tested the vacuum
system and the distrubutor was getting 15-16 inches of
vacuum at fast idle. I then tested the distributor
can and it would not hold vacuum. Kragens' wanted $79
for a rebuilt distributor and my local independent
parts store wanted $57. Not in stock either place so
I began looking through my parts collection and found
another Prestolite six distributor which held vacuum.
I installed it today and after the timing was set
properly the little 258 purrs like an AMC. I need to
install the driver's seat and see if it moves down the
road OK. I had the 904 tranny professionally rebuilt
by a local shop. Then onto finishing the interior and
color sanding the old paint followed by buffing.
Big smile,
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:27:13 -0500
From: "BUS-ENG" <jay@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] '69 Rambler/232/T-14 clutch needed
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <047201c711b2$679509e0$0400a8c0@ts800>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I want to thank Mark for the suggestions
on replacing my clutch. His feedback,
and the excellent and comprehensive
list at "Rambler Dan's";
http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/american_partlist.htm
should get me enough ammo to light up
the phones tomorrow with assorted
parts houses to find the clutch pieces.
However, it turns out I also need a
transmission mount for the same car.
Does anyone know if the Mopar mount
for the 258 will fit? Or, does anyone
know of a source for the transmission
mount for the 232, with a T-14 stick?
Thanks,
Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: "BUS-ENG" <jay@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: [AMC-List] '69 Rambler/232/T-14 clutch needed
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for a complete
> clutch assembly for my wagon?
>
> I looked through Eddie's list (I think) fairly
> carefully and no ready source jumped out at me.
>
> Of course, I am also interested in any experienced
> comments on quality and cost.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 23:34:50 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 62 classic rear axle id
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Message-ID:
<112620062334.23273.456A249A0005B84100005AE921587667200E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
You know, since Jim mentioned that the Spicer 53 and 27A are Jeep axles (I didn't know that!), it's very likely that the person looking up the info looked at the wrong thing (under Jeep instead of Rambler or AMC cars), or the computer files are just wrong. Companies have been trying to reduce inventory by merging part numbers whenever possible. They sometimes make assumptions (especially on older parts) that are entirely wrong. Try ordering a water pump for the 196 -- you will get a 196 pump, but the last time I tried it was pot luck getting the right one! There were at least four different pumps (two bolt patterns, two shaft lengths, two different heater outlet locations).
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:19:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Wiring
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611261817580.28102@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006, JOE FULTON wrote:
> Neither power windows nor power door locks were ever
> avaliable on the Javelin. The only wiring which went
> into the door could have been for door speakers for
> the AM/FM radio installation, but I'm not even sure
> about that.
But I bet some door stamping dies were re-used; some engineer
would probably place the knockouts there out of good practice,
to avoid having to ECO the door should management later offer
some option they weren't told about.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:27:07 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Wiring
To: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <28056915.1164594427973.JavaMail.root@web11>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
As has been stated the AMX and javelins never saw Power window options nor locks.
I would assume the punchout is possibly there because the post stamping was possibly shared with another body, I would guess the American line. Not sure why the stamping even eixsts as I don't think Americans got power windows either!
You are left with the option of doing it as you wish. You'll have to source the needed pieces form the aftermarket or another similar application depending on what look you are after. I'd suggest looking in restoration catalogs for something that looks right to you.
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Another question.
> Once I finish painting the car (70 AMX), it will be time to put the wiring back in.
> I plan to install a security system with remote door locks.
> Running the wires from the door to the interior of the car, is where I need help.
> At the bottom of the front door post, there is a punch out, which I assume is for electric windows on a Javelin, (again assuming same door post used on the AMX).
> There is no corresponding punch out on the front of the door.
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of the factory wiring from door to interior?
> If not, I would appreciate any any suggestions on how this should be done.
> I need to make this decision before I paint the door opening.
> Thanks for any help.
> Don
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 21:32:29 -0500
From: "Spro" <msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] NP-129 in Michigan
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <001b01c711cc$48d556d0$6401a8c0@deathstar>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Its an NP-129. I have to say, the appearance of this thing in the Grand Wagoneer I took it out of
was that of a "factory" unit.
-Spro
-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxx [mailto:amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jim Blair
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:19 AM
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] NP-129 in Michigan
A: If it does have a NP129 and not a NP229 then someone swapped that in from
an Eagle. (the difference is no low range) If it's a NP219, then it's
'80/early '82 Wagoneer limited or Cherokee and that is a 4x4 full time case
(no 2wd position)
From: "Spro" <msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] NP-129 in Michigan
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <001b01c70c53$369c99c0$6401a8c0@deathstar>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I will give it away to the first person that wants it (and has a
plan to retrieve it). From an 84?
Grand Wagoneer, I believe. I'll get a few pictures, including a
picture of the ID tag and post a
link to them. If anyone is interested, please contact me
off-list. I'm in Highland, MI - northwest
Detroit suburbs.
Again, this is a freebie.
-Spro
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------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 03:18:53 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] Name Those AMC "Specials"!!
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Message-ID:
<112720060318.16539.456A591D000056020000409B21602806510E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
I just got an e-mail from a fellow asking me to confirm the existence of a "Yellow Jacket" 1967 Ambassador. I've heard of the cars, think it was a regional or dealer special like the 1969 "Rebel Raider". There are a number of these regional or dealer group specials. Usually a dealer group worked together to order a certain number of cars equipped a certain way -- all the same body and options, including color -- and received an additional discount. The discounts were usually passed on to the customers and the package given a name for advertising purposes. It was a win-wion situation -- the dealers got good publicity and were able to draw customers in, the buyer got a discount on options that would normally cost a couple hundred more. A few of these "not really special specials" were even made by AMC -- the "T/A Victory Javelins" I consider one. They had nothing special but a sticker on the fender. While they had a specific option package, it was nothing anyone couldn't order!
at any
time. The Donohue almost falls into this category, but they had that special spoiler that couldn't be ordered until AFTER the last of the official 1501 models were made. The other cars could have been ordered at any time. Then there are the really rare one-offs (or very few made) cars that weren't heard of much -- like the Continental Gremlin(s) that Eddie discovered. Did Continental have one customized or a dozen? Who knows?
So what "specials" have you heard of, and what do you know about them? Here's the ones I can think of right off:
1967 Ambassador 880 HT "Yellow Jacket" -- 100 made for the NY auto show, sold through NY/NJ dealers.
1969 Rebel Raider SST HT -- 300 made for the NY auto show, sold through NY/NJ dealers. These had special colors that would be the 1970 "Mod" colors, but with different names -- "Blue You've Never Seen", "Electric Green", and "Tangerine". I beleive 100 of each color were made.
1973 Trans-Am Victory Javelin. A discount was given on a specific option package by AMC on all Javelins built from October through December 1972 (73 models). Each carried a T/A Victory decal on the front fenders.
1974 "Continental" Gremlin. Ordered by Continental Airlines (headquartered in Houston, TX) and given away in a promotional. Not sure how many were made/given away. It was white with the Continental logo and stripe down the side, with Continental logo patterened seat upholstery.
I recall someone mentioning some "special" model from Florida dealers in the late 60s or early 70s, and I know there are others. Can't recall the year of the Pikes Peak car, for one. Can anyone add to the list?
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 19:31:11 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] SJ Axle width?
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F12B8701A9ACAAD63607C95ACE60@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: Front axles come in 2 widths. Narrow track (all 4 dr and most 2 drs) and
widetrac (pickups and 2 dr Cherokees with fender flares @75% of the time)
Rear axles come in 3 widths. NT, WT Cherokee 2 dr and pickups from narrowest
to widest. The NT is about 1" wider than an XJ axle making it a common swap.
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] SJ Axle width?
To: "AMC-DelMarVA: yahoogroups.com"
<AMC-DelMarVA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, Strokers
<strokers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <29876484.1164516753787.JavaMail.root@web16>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Anyone know the width of a narrow track 84-90 Fullsize SJ Axle?
Talking wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 21:32:14 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Re; Rear Axle ratio choices, a question
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <000001c711dd$0675da60$9fdd0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Frank.
I tried running a 3.08 gear in mine with the torquey 4.6L stroker and
AW4. It cruised at 70-75,
Snip
Assume for comparison purposes, Az State Speed limit of 75 mph.
This would calculate out (using p205-70-14 Tires) at 3068 rpm
Snip
but stressed the engine enough that gas mileage dropped considerably
compared to the T-96 w/)D and 3.31 rear gears.
Snip
Assuming the O/D was a typical .75 the final drive ratio would then be
equivalent to 2.48:1 rear axle. Thus with the T-96 and OD using the same
size tires rpm would be 2493 rpm. This would be a decrease of 575 rpm
at 75mph. A decrease of 575 rpm should carry over into an increase of
fuel economy. That is the theory behind overdrive. Decrease rpm to
fuel economy.
Snip
Going to a 3.55 gear improved performance and mileage. I dropped
about 4 mpg with the 3.08, gained 2 mpg back with the 3.55. I think the
3.31 gears are probably the best mileage gears for my combo, but the
3.55 is a good compromise.
Snip
This statement does not ring 100% true. At least according to overdrive
theory.
A 3.55 final drive should give and engine rpm of about 3526 rpm at 75
mph.
This would be an increase of 458 rpm over the 3.08 rear axle and an
increase of 1033 rpm over the 3.31 final drive in over drive. Fuel
mileage
it would seem to me would go down the toilet using a 3.55 final drive.
Performance may experience an increase providing that the engine has
the rpm capability to work efficiently with the short rear axle gears.
My modified 258 I-6, Iskenderian cam and 9:1 compression initially
with the stock BBD 2bbl and full 1980 factory smog easily pulled the
2.53:1 final drive w/P245-60-14 tires up to the Arizona speed limit of
75 mph. This package calibrated out to 29.76 mph/1000 rpm. Thus at
75 mph the engine ran at 2520 rpm. This engine using the BBD Carburetor
Rear Wheel Dyno-ed out at 85 hp at 2800 rpm with a peak of 90 hp
between 3100 and 3500 rpm and fell off to about 85 hp at 3600 rpm.
The horse power curve can be directly traced to the small cfm rating of
the Carter BBD 2BBL carburetor of about 195 cfm.
The installation of the port fuel injection extended the rpm range of
the
engine well past 4500 rpm before performance started to fall off.
I do not have a dyno test of the completed fuel injected engine but
crude tests and calculations seem to add about 20 additional rear
wheel hp but the rpm range has been improved to where wide open
throttle 2/3 shifts are set for 4500 rpm or about 75 mph.
Compared to my bone stock 1980 AMX which too can cruise easily enough
with the factory stock 2.53:1 rear axle at the 75 mph speed limit, all
bets
are off at much over that speed. The engine falls on it's face at about
3400 rpm
and the ability to pull tall hills rests mostly with in your
imagination.
However it regularly gets 24 mpg and better driven at speed limits on
long trips. This engine with P205-70-14 tires calculate out to
29.76 mph/1000 rpm. I can see if a given engine is more than
a bit anemic, that performance would suffer quite heavily if driven
in O/D regularly. Also fuel economy would go down the toilet
too as the tendency would be to flog it a bit to get it to move and
nothing would happen other than sucking gasoline at a copious rate.
But that same engine would probably not be overly happy running
at rpm levels that can be seen on interstate or other high speed
roads. It is just that my experience with the AMC I-6 engines I
have played with have the capability of running well with rather
tall final drives whether from the factory as in my 1980 Spirit with
the 2.53:1 rear axles or induced through the installation of an
overdrive type of transmission.
I guess what I am trying to understand is the logic that says a 3.55:1
rear axle is going to give better fuel economy than a 3.08 rear axle.
Neither my own personal experience or logic makes much sense
of that unless I missed something completely.
Snip
The AW4 converter won't slip and allow the
rpm that the TF converter does before the car starts moving, so first
could end up feeling like a lot less gear than you have now.
Snip
I did not know that! But then again, that transmission must be related
to the one in my Town and Country and one more replacement for
that one and the car will get turned into a Chevy!
John.
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 51
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