AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 40
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 40
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- Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 07:54:47 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Nick Lenarz)
2. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Nick Lenarz)
3. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
(Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
4. My J-10 Adventures! (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
5. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Sandwich Maker)
6. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Tom Jennings)
7. AMC INK (namdra@xxxxxxxx)
8. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Mark Price)
9. Re: Bouncing Speedo fix (Mark Price)
10. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Matt Haas)
11. Re: J-10 Adventures (Mr. AMC)
12. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Tom Jennings)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 05:07:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Nick Lenarz <n9viw@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <61140.52862.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Thanks to all for the replies, I appreciate it.
Ken Siroonian: It's currently running a BBD because it works, but the
carb I was having problems with was a Motorcraft MC2100 with a 1.08"
bore. Many CJ owners have claimed this carb to be the best thing since
sliced bread, but if mine is any indication, sliced bread ain't that
good anymore! LOL!
As for the stepper motor, to heck with that! I JB Welded the ports shut
when I had the carb apart for cleaning, and I made a block-off cover
from a piece of 1/8" plate steel to cover up where the stepper went.
Looks good from here! :D
Tom Jennings: From looking at the exploded diagram in the rebuild kits
I bought, the carb is only missing external bits- dashpot, Idle Control
solenoid, stuff like that. All the internals- power valve, accelerator
pump, jets, float, float needle and seat, venturi cluster (with the air
redirector plate), all that stuff is still in there. All the gaskets
are new.
Ken Ames: I don't know, all I know is there was a "16" stamped on one
side of the power valve, and it's the one that came with the rebuild
kit for the carb. Could be less and the stamp means nothing, but
there's really no way to know unless I could either pull vacuum on the
valve, or find some sort of documentation from the rebuild
manufacturer. Either way, not a huge concern, as it should be selected
for average drivability anyway.
As for the MC2100, I drilled the idle tubes to .032", like the Carter
tip I mentioned before. It did seem to help a bit, but it still wanted
to die just off-idle and when trying to accelerate- just fell on its
face. As soon as I let off the gas a bit in either of these
circumstances, it ran better. So, if it's doing that, is that too rich,
or too lean?
In a rare fit of daring and bravery, I drove the Jeep to work today.
What a great feeling, to be behind the wheel of my old Jeep again! :D
:D :D The BBD did well, but there's still an off-idle stumble that I
can't figure out. If I hold the RPMs up and feather the clutch from a
stop, there's no problem, but I'm only masking the issue by doing that.
I think there's still some sort of vacuum problem, in that there's not
enough to get past that sudden dropoff when the throttle opens, and the
carb stops feeding fuel. These engines are supposed to pull 18-23 inHg
of vacuum at idle, and mine can only muster up about 14-16 inHg.
There's also a wicked snapping from the exhaust on acceleration, sounds
like I've got a hole in my headpipe, but it's not there while coasting
or cruising. I think I'm going to get a new set of manifold gaskets and
just pull both manifolds off, clean them, and put them back on with
fresh, just to make sure.
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 05:20:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Nick Lenarz <n9viw@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <323962.36784.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Just another aside to Jim Blair: You asked about the power valve on the
MC2100... I don't know if the 16" Hg measurement I quoted was correct,
I only know that there was a "1 6" stamped on the side of the valve,
with no other markings, and took that to mean the level of vacuum at
which the power valve would open. Could be 6", I don't know. In order
to find out whether it was flooding out at that problem point, I'd
probably have to hook up an O2 sensor and watch the meter as I
feathered it in and out of that range, and see if it jumped suddenly
rich or lean.
I'm starting to think, now, that the problem is partly the carb and
partly the engine, since the Carter sorta does the same thing too, just
not so radically. The cam is a 252h from Comp Cams, which is listed as
a 'mild' cam, with a slightly longer duration and 4* advance designed
in. I recall setting the timing chain gears to 3* advanced too (not
knowing about the cam), so I may be just running out of vacuum when the
carb needs it.
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link
Mortgage rates near 39yr lows.
$420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment!
www.LowerMyBills.com/lre
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 09:11:51 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: n9viw@xxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01B06118@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Nick, I have a J-10 pickup with some of the same problems. Only mine has
the BBD (appears to be an earlier type without stepper motor -- has been
changed and other smog stuff pulled off -- it's an 83 from NY City) and
a much more obvious vacuum leak. I drove it from NYC to Dover, DE, with
no problems, then on down to SC (where I left it). The vacuum leak got
worse as I drove it a bit in SC. Appears to be an intake manifold leak
-- the exhaust manifold is obviously leaking. This is common on these
things! While you have the manifolds off check for flatness where they
mate to the block, and have trued at a machine shop if necessary. Then
just check the manifold bolts for tightness occasionally. The constant
expansion and contraction of the exhaust manifold works the bolts a
little loose, that's the disadvantage of using the same bolts for both
manifolds. Since the exhaust manifold on mine is pretty rusted where the
studs hold the head pipe on, it's going to have to be replaced. I think
I have a Renix (87-90) 4.0L tubular manifold in storage, will replace it
with that when I move early this summer. Might look for a good deal on a
4V intake and Holley 390 carb while I'm waiting too... ;>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 09:59:59 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] My J-10 Adventures!
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01B061AA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I recently bought a 1983 J-10 Townside truck with a 258 six, T-176 four
speed manual trans, and NP-208 hi/low range transfer case, stock 2.73
gears and stock size tires/suspension (no lift!!). The purchase was made
from a guy in Woodside, NY (on Manhattan Island, just east of NYC -- a
suburb of NYC) via e-bay. When the bidding topped $2000, I called the
previous owner. It was his first experience selling something on e-bay
(the other reason I called...). He was very personable and gave me lots
of info on the truck. It has some "minor rust" (for a NYC truck), and a
lot of rebuilt parts over the last 2-4 years. All the u-joints,
including the front axle joints, had been replaced, the transmission and
transfer case were rebuilt, and the clutch replaced while those were
out. I've never driven a four speed that had such a nice positive "snap"
into each gear as this one does!
It was used for a snow plow for the last 12 years, that's why the trans
and all needed rebuilding. Only light use for the last 3-4 years though.
I had one heck of a time removing the snow plow frame due to all the
rusted bolts! The PO left the controls attached, just kept the blade and
hydraulics to sell to a friend. I got a nice aluminum camper top in
"trade" for the snow plow. Might have got a little for the plow, but
didn't want to drive three hours with a blade on front (or in the back).
The camper shell won't be used much, but might come in handy (he'd
intended to sell the shell separately).
It runs okay, had a little over 95K on it (a bit over 96K now!). There
is a skip at speed, found out that was a bad plug wire after driving it
down to SC with a load. It performed pretty good considering that, a
leaky exhaust (I tack welded a new turbo muffler in before going, the
muffler on it was badly rusted out), and the approximately 800# in the
bed (a 14 hp 38" cut riding mower and 120# vice) and at least 1500#
trailer (trailer and load) I was towing! I discovered that the intake
manifold also has a nasty vacuum leak while I had it in SC. It started
whistling after warm up under high vacuum conditions! No time to fix
while I was there.
Drives okay, definitely needs new shocks! The four speed trans and steep
gears (2.73) work pretty good. With the load and vacuum/exhaust leaks it
takes a little feathering of the clutch to take off on a grade, but that
should improve dramatically once the leaks are fixed. Only had to use
low range once to take off on a grade. On a level it works fine. It
drives like an early 80s Ford four speed where fourth is overdrive
though. If not running 45-50 mph there's no point in using fourth gear,
though it will run okay at 40 mph with no load on a level in fourth. Any
acceleration or hitting a detectable grade requires a down shift. If the
t-case were synchronized for on-the-fly shifting it would be a perfect
set-up. As it is you really need to stop to shift from low to high,
though I've been told it can be done with practice with little grinding.
I tried once, don't think I'll be practicing! With a load I'll use low
until I hit a level then stop and shift if necessary. Has manual locking
hubs, so it effectively has a low range 2WD mode as well. I might get a
little muddy locking the hubs, but prefer this to automatic hubs or the
vacuum axle. Those require a little forward or backward movement to
lock, and I have had one (a Comanche) that wouldn't move enough to
engage the front wheels before. Four wheel drive is useless when it
won't engage! When I put in in 4WD I want all four wheels to move!!
The plan is to replace the exhaust manifold with a Renix tubular
manifold I think I have in storage after I retire from the USAF in June
(left the truck in SC and flew back to DE). All the smog equipment has
been removed and it appears that an earlier BBD (maybe from a Chrysler?)
has been installed. I didn't take the carb off, but could find no plug
for the stepper motor wiring, and a lot of wiring has been disconnected.
I'll be removing the no longer used wiring also. I'm also going to look
for a used 4V intake and Holley 390 cfm carb, or maybe a Weber. If I get
a good deal on one will go that route instead of installing the extra
Renix EFI system I have stashed at home, though the EFI might be the
better way to go. Requires a bit more thought! A 4.0L head would be nice
also...
Anyone have a 4.0L Jeep for parts? If so let me know what you want for
the head pipe. Must be in good condition where it bolts to the manifold,
and at least 12" back, prefer 2'. I'll have to have the rest made up,
but the factory piece fits better to the manifold than something a shop
makes on site.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 11:51:55 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611201651.kAKGptY02769@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
"
" On Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
"
" > I really wonder what this new ethanol fuel 10% mix is doing to our older
" > cars fule tanks, lines and hoses.
"
" It's eating the old hoses, for sure. New hose seems OK.
"
" But I wonder, does it make water in the gas tank (condensation,
" etc) miscible with the gas, like "dry gas" (I was once an
" east-coastie :-)?
yes it does, though i don't think as strongly. otoh there's a lot
more of it in a tankful...
it could also come out of the pump pre-saturated with water.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 10:11:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611201010220.13535@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006, Sandwich Maker wrote:
> " But I wonder, does it make water in the gas tank (condensation,
> " etc) miscible with the gas, like "dry gas" (I was once an
> " east-coastie :-)?
>
> yes it does, though i don't think as strongly. otoh there's a lot
> more of it in a tankful...
>
> it could also come out of the pump pre-saturated with water.
You're right on that last... and I suppose it means refiners
could add 0.5% water (or whatever) with few complaints and that
much more profit.
Nahh, they'd never do anything like that...
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 15:56:59 -0600
From: namdra@xxxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] AMC INK
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061120.155718.-16617309.0.NAMDRA@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
The Jan. 2007 issue of Hemmings Classic Car has picked the 68-70 AMX's as
one of the Top 21 hottest collector cars. They also did a SVGA article on
the Hurst Gremlin Rescue cars and a 1-page story on a 69 Ambassador that
sold for $4,730 at an auction.
The Jan 2007 issue of Hot rod, in an article on the Hot Rod Drag Week,
had a picture and blurb of "Chopper Bob" Schultz's 70 AMX, which won the
Quickest AMC award.
Jock Jocewicz - President/Editor NAMDRA NAMDRA@xxxxxxxx
8537 Antioch Rd., Salem, WI 53168 (262) 843-4326
JOIN NAMDRA, the best AMC club around!!
AMO#19, NAMDRA#46, AMCRC#974, NHRA#41915, IHRA#6766
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 16:12:19 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <32834362.1164067939607.JavaMail.root@web17>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
What the ethanol really does is "Clean" everything! It breaks down all the varnish and crud from years of sitting exposes thin metal and even strips of gunk that is the only thing sealing some rusted spots. It clogs fuel pumps and carbs and causes old cracked hoses to leak.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> "
> " On Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
> "
> " > I really wonder what this new ethanol fuel 10% mix is doing to our older
> " > cars fule tanks, lines and hoses.
> "
> " It's eating the old hoses, for sure. New hose seems OK.
> "
> " But I wonder, does it make water in the gas tank (condensation,
> " etc) miscible with the gas, like "dry gas" (I was once an
> " east-coastie :-)?
>
> yes it does, though i don't think as strongly. otoh there's a lot
> more of it in a tankful...
>
> it could also come out of the pump pre-saturated with water.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 17:13:14 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Bouncing Speedo fix
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <29730517.1164071594108.JavaMail.root@web17>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Pulling the inner clear out, wiping it clean with a shop rag then feeding it in coated with Molybdenum grease works well too. Cover your carpet though as it tries to get everywhere during the process!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- "Dan E. Curtis" <d.curtis@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Regarding the bouncing speedo problem, it is caused by the speedo drive wire being not properly seated at either the tranny end or the speedo end which causes the wire within the sheathing to bind on the sheathing as is spins from the tranny gear. I have had this same simptom too many times to recall in my 35+ years of AMC ownership and th fix is to disconnect the speedo cable from the back fo the speedometer, pull the internal wire out a couple of inches from the sheating and rotate it before inserting back into the sheathing so that it is aligned properly with the gear on the tranny end of the cable. Then reinsert back into the speedo and keep your fingers crossed that everything is aligned so the the innner wire no longer binds on the exterior sheating.
>
> I recently had to pull my speedo to the wires on the back of the tach and when I put it back in the needle was bouncing badly between 20 and 30 and had a slight wiggle above 50. After disconnecting, rotating and reconnecting the cable a couple of times as described above, everything worked as it had before I pulled the speedo so just keep on trying and you will end up with the corret alignment of ends of the internal wire, tranny gear and at the speedo gauge gear.
> --
> Best Regards,
> Dan Curtis
> d.curtis@xxxxxxx
> 602 317 2018
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 21:35:30 -0500
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <456265F2.7050208@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I'd hardly call 10% Ethanol mix new. Here in Ohio, we've had it for
around 20-25 years. My 96 Ram is the only vehicle I've had or driven
that I've noticed any performance difference in (it costs me about a
half a mpg and I get a slight hesitation with it when the engines cold).
Also, the newest AMC is now almost 20 years old. Isn't it about time to
spend $5-10 and replace the fuel hoses?
Matt
Tom Jennings wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
>
>> I really wonder what this new ethanol fuel 10% mix is doing to our older
>> cars fule tanks, lines and hoses.
>
> It's eating the old hoses, for sure. New hose seems OK.
>
> But I wonder, does it make water in the gas tank (condensation,
> etc) miscible with the gas, like "dry gas" (I was once an
> east-coastie :-)?
>
> My 1970 Hornet, and my 1973 parts car, have absolutely immaculate
> gas tanks, I assume from being Calif. cars their whole life,
> not much tank-condensation circumstance here.
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
>
>
>
--
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
===============================================================
According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by
UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 00:55:04 -0500
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] J-10 Adventures
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <10569-456294B8-3445@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Frank Woodside is in Queens not on Manhattan. I live north of Manhattan
on the Bronx / Yonkers line about 25 min. from Queens.
"Doc"
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 23:55:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611202353250.5964@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006, Matt Haas wrote:
> I'd hardly call 10% Ethanol mix new. Here in Ohio, we've had it for
> around 20-25 years. My 96 Ram is the only vehicle I've had or driven
> that I've noticed any performance difference in (it costs me about a
> half a mpg and I get a slight hesitation with it when the engines cold).
> Also, the newest AMC is now almost 20 years old. Isn't it about time to
> spend $5-10 and replace the fuel hoses?
Oh, I certainly wasn't arguing against it, or complaining that
it eats old hoses.
Absolutely, with or without re-formulated gas, old hoses are
a disaster waiting to happen. All my old cars get new hoses,
end to end, even the gas tank couplers. Those are the only ones
that are any effort, but it sure beats a gas leak.
------------------------------
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 40
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