Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ

["Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

A: It sounds to me like you have an extreme vacuum leak someplace (bad brake 
booster or sucked in intake gasket) or the float level is too high (or power 
valve blown) snuffing the spark.


From: Nick Lenarz <n9viw@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<20061116133221.84962.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

   I've been up and down the list looking for clues, but nothing
that
sounds like the problem I'm having, so here's my first post to
the
group.
   The patient: 1982 Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler, 258 I-6 bored .040 in
'98,
fitted with Comp Cams #252h (P/N 68-200-4) and a Cloyes
Tru-Roller kit
set to the 3* advanced notches. Intake and exhaust are stock,
with a
glasspack and Catco 400CFM cat on the exh. and a recently
cleaned and
rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 (1.08 bore with #48 jets, 16" PV) on the
int.
Ignition has been converted to a GM HEI module coupled to the
stock
Motorcraft distributor and Ford TFI upgrade kit (cap, adapter,
plugs,
coil). Bosch Platinums have been gapped to .050.
   The symptoms: Engine won't stay running. It starts fine, but
dies
off instantly. I can keep it running if I 'blip' the throttle,
but if I
hold it constant, it runs for a few seconds, then dies off
quickly.
This occurs at any throttle position/RPM, almost as if it's
running out
of gas, but it's as sudden as turning the key off. Changing plug
gap
has no effect.
   On the occasions I can get it to idle, it will not run
without the
idle mix screws backed out at least 4 turns and the choke mostly
closed. When tuning, it will run at 6-8* BTDC, but acts like
it's way
retarded (snapping back into the exhaust manifold). If I tune
for best
idle/vac, it runs better, but the timing is off the rack (24*+)
and it
dies as soon as I go off-idle.
   I've been told I have a vacuum leak, and the vacuum IS low
(max of
16 inHg) but I'm hard-pressed to find one. The manifolds are
tight to
the engine, and have Stage 8 locking fasteners on them. The
MC2100 is
bolted to the intake with a custom-milled adapter made from 1"
thick
billet aluminum. The choke vacuum port in the base of the carb
has been
epoxied shut, with a machine screw threaded in for good measure.
The
heater plate in the intake is intact, the EGR valve doesn't work
but is
definitely closed (checked it by blowing thru the intake port
and
pressing on the pintle to open and close the valve). The
manifold
vacuum port above the EGR valve has teflon tape on the threads
and is
very tight, and has been capped during testing.

Any suggestions are much appreciated, I'm just stumped.

Thanks,
Nick

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