Re: [AMC-List] mustang suspension

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Well, I did come on a little strong!! 

You have the older strut rod style, but you can use the new style
bushings. You need to buy ONE factory style strut rod bushing from the
local parts store for a 1980 Concord (get the MOOG part if they have
it!), and ONE urethane strut rod bushing set for a 74 Javelin. The
urethane is used on the front, stock on the back. You have to trim the
urethane bushing down to the right thickness. I basically cut the "cone"
portion off, leaving a flat bushing about 1" thick. It can be cut with a
hack saw, or do like Tom J. did and chuck it in a drill press. I used a
hack saw -- it doesn't have to be really smooth, just close to the same
thickness -- a little variation won't hurt! 

The reason you need the urethane bushing is strength. The rubber isn't
strong enough once cut down -- the cone shape gives it some strength
when deforming. Cut down rubber will let the washer push through. Tom
and I both found that out at close to the same time -- he has pictures
(www.wps.com, check the AMC/Rambler links) and a nice tutorial on-line.
You want to use the rubber on the back to increase flexibility. Urethane
front and back makes for a very stiff suspension. 

You have one other choice, which is really better, but requires a bit of
work. I bought a pair of used Concord strut rods. Any 1970 or later AMC
will be fine -- or get some revenge on a Mustang and buy Ford strut
rods. They will work just as well (better, since you're not destroying
an AMC part... ;>). Take your original strut rods off. Cut ONE in half.
Take one of the other strut rods and cut it so you have some adjustment
for the bushing. Use the uncut original to gauge approximate length.
Since the bushing location is adjustable you have a bit of range to play
with, so accuracy isn't important for length -- just make sure you have
at least an inch of threads toward the control arm to "shorten" the rod,
and as much to lengthen. Have the halves welded together, then cut the
other rods and make another the same length as the first. 

It's not hard to weld something like this IF you can weld! Grind the
ends to be welded together to a bevel, leaving a 1/8" diameter flat in
the center. The end should look like a sharpened pencil except for the
1/8" flat. Space the flat apart the thickness of your welding rod (~1/8"
if stick welding, thickness of the wire if MIG/flux core). Clamp the rod
in a piece of angle iron to keep them straight. Weld in the center on
one side, then allow to cool five minutes. Loosen clamps and rotate,
clamp, weld opposite side. 

Now it depends on what kind of welder you're using. With a stick welder,
a 30-40* bevel is good. You can start using a 7018 rod to fill in (use a
6010 for the first weld), one side then the other, cleaning and allowing
to cool between. Keep it clamped in the angle iron. If using a MIG or
flux core, you do the same thing except keep the angle down to 20-30*,
just enough you can get the wire in to weld the flats. It will take a
while to fill in the material with a wire welder. Fill in slightly above
the original surface, then grind down smooth. Paint and the rod should
look stock. Using a sleeve and welding IS NOT as strong and a properly
welded rod. If you doubt your skills, take the cut and ground rods to a
welding shop. They won't have a problem. I've been driving mine over a
year, no problems at all. The weld material is actually stronger than
the rod (the first two numbers of a welding rod is the compression
strength of the filler material -- 6010 is 60,000 psi, 7018 is 70,000
psi -- the rod isn't that strong!)

If you don't want to weld there is another option. An industrial
fastener store should have large graded threaded rod connectors and
threading dies. Cut the rods and thread the ends, then screw both in
tight. The strut rod is in compression only, so this is completely safe.
I started to just use such a threaded sleeve and just the original strut
rod. Adjustment would be made by screwing in and out the sleeve. The
problem is the threads just aren't tight enough for this to be safe.
With the ends screwed tight together it's not a problem -- a little
lock-tite on the threads, or better epoxy (JB Weld, etc.) before
screwing together will fix it right up. 

Thanks for the update on the MII hub. I'll have to check around as to
how the hub was made to fit. I suspect different bearings, as you
mentioned. I was thinking the offset was positive (further out), not
negative (further in)!! All I recall being mentioned was the offset was
1/2" to 3/4" different. 

It's perfectly safe to space the spindle out further as long as you use
grade 8 bolts. I've had to do this before, and have the spindles spaced
out another 3/4" on my car now. You will need to use GRADED washers for
spacers as they won't crush and will be of uniform thickness. For a
large spacer use a graded nut that will slip over the bolt. I'm doing
that, and found that a 1/2" nut slides right over a 3/8" bolt. A steel
plate spacer might be better, though I've had no problems. All this
moving about WILL affect alignment some, but I've found everything works
out close enough not to cause adverse wear or steering issues. On the
tightest turns (like in a parking lot) one of my tires obviously turns
at a slightly different angle, as I get a little squealing from a tire
scrubbing on the pavement, but only on really tight turns. Car tracks
and handles beautifully, couldn't ask for much better!! Surprised more
than one person by charging off a ramp... ;> Love to do this when I'm
casually driving along and some import or big SUV is crawling my rear!!
Get into the middle of the turn and nearly floor it. The Jag axle digs
in and the car hugs the turn and shoots off the ramp, leaving mr.
tailgater way back!

If you want a better looking suspension, something like the MII is about
the only way to go. The tubular suspension lower arm that Nick Alfano is
working on should fit all cars with the strut rod suspension. If he's
using a strut rod eliminator design some work for the rear pivot will be
required on each body as the mounts are different, but that should be
easy enough to fabricate. 

The older Mustang/Falcon still uses a pivoting spring seat like the
Mustang II/70+ AMC suspension. That should be useable with the older
AMCs, but the spring seat appears to be a good bit lower than the big
car original spring seat -- about 3" lower, to much to lower the car and
maintain good steering/ride characteristics (2" would be about the max,
and that's pushing it -- lowering plates would be better for more than
an inch of drop). The upper arm is designed to be mounted on a bar, but
could be removed. I have the dimensions for a MII control arm somewhere
-- that might be a better fit. Now to find them!! In either case the
upper arm would require modification for the big car spring. Converting
to a coil over shock might be the best way to go. All this gets
expensive fast!! Global West makes a tubular lower arm that would likely
work, and some strut rods with better ends. The arms are over $300 each,
plus the cost of the strut rods. A pair of coil overs is around $300,
and the upper arms are closer to $400 for the early Mustang. MII
components are more common and cheaper, but still add up fast. Is it all
worth it? Get a good gas shock, modify the AMC strut rod, and get 15%
stiffer springs and you'll have as good a handling (if not looking)
suspension on your 62 Classic. With a wire welder you can box the lower
arm for strength, but unless you plan on a lot of road racing I've found
it to not be necessary -- just adds a little weight. 

Except for looks and "wow factor" there's not much reason to change the
front suspension drastically. For road or drag racing there are some
benefits. If you're set on changing the front suspension, the only kit
I've seen that would be relatively easy to modify to fit nearly any AMC
is the new strut front suspensions designed to fit the stock early
Mustangs. They consists of a new strut that fits in the spring tower,
new tubular lower control arm, spindles, hubs, brakes, etc. -- and cost
around $3K. Not bad for replacing everything. They would still need
modifying, and you'd have to be careful about the lower control arm
length, but all that would be easier to modify than spring mounts. 

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