Re: [AMC-List] my 62 classic project (rear suspension for torque tube car)

[Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

For truck arm components without the "bling" go here!
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Look under rear suspension, 51" long arms for less than $230.
Should be plenty stout enough, come in both ball end and rubber bushed.
I don't know, but would shop around, I bet you can get some deals on this stuff!
How many circle track cars last for more than a year or two?
I know if I ever open driveline a torque tube car this is the route I'll be taking!
It closely mimics the original setup.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- "Swygert wrote: 
> Dave, yours is the kind of project I'd like to be working with, or at
> least "supervising". I don't mean actually looking over someone's
> shoulder, but like a 2.3L Pinto engine in a 54 Rambler I helped with
> years ago. I went over and the owner and I talked about a few things,
> and I pointed a few things out, then he called me a month later with a
> few snags, we discussed on the phone, and I dropped by for a couple
> hours the next weekend. Only went over there three times, talked on the
> phone four or five. He did all the work. Wish I'd taken pictures!! Now
> for some of your specific problems:
> 
> 1. 304 V-8. Believe it or not, those things are hard to find, and
> getting hard to find things like pistons for! My advice would be to go
> with a 360 because they are easiest to find. You may not need or want
> that much power, but a stock 2V 360 will have what a mildly warmed up
> 304 would have. Keep the hood closed until you roast the tires or blow
> someone away, THEN lift it and show a bone stock 2V 360! That 62 Classic
> is lighter than it looks, and the carb will be hidden by the air filter
> housing anyway. For more of a stealth look, grind all the extra fittings
> and casting numbers off the iron intake, sill in extra holes with JB
> Weld, and paint it with aluminum paint. I've seen that done before,
> makes people really wonder what's in there.
> 
> 2. Check out http://www.hotrodstohell.net/truckarm/truckarm_index.htm.
> That will be the best overall (ease of build/install along with good
> handling/ride) rear suspension. HTHT uses I beams for the arms, which
> are two pieces of channel back to back. I'd use a piece of 1.5"x3" 11
> gauge (roughly 1/8") sidewall rectangular tubing for each arm. Look at
> the G-body kit. That would be the easiest to adapt to your Rambler if
> you prefer a kit (also look at the "Shoe Box" - 55-57 Chevy -- kit for
> photos of one installed on a frame, much better idea of how it's
> installed). The G-body has the springs mounted on top of the axle like
> the Rambler. The G-body kit isn't listed, but all others are $1995 -- a
> bit steep, with a triangulated kit from TCI running under $400. You can
> buy the arms only for $220 each, and a lot of other components. I didn't
> see anything that can't be made with a hack saw, welder, and ingenuity
> -- and a lot less $$$ for your labor vs. theirs. Any 4x4 shop will have
> the rear axle saddles. I'll be looking for someone with a car and wants
> one of these after I get settled in SC (will be a couple years from
> now!) who will pay for materials only so I can build one as a pattern
> for making more. Depending on how you install the trans, you may need to
> make a crossmember anyway. As long as the crossmember is near the end of
> the trans, and the pivots for the arms are at or behind the universal
> joint pivot point, you can make one for the arms and trans together. I'd
> mount the engine using the existing side mounts and make a combo
> crossmember myself. The front crossmember on the 62 will support the
> engine, just weld on perches to match the engine mounts. The crossmember
> can even be past the end of the trans with an "extension" going forward.
> A couple pieces of angle iron or a piece of channel will make a make
> crossmember. Since the rails run bumper to bumper on that body, make a
> 1.5"x6" or so plate from 1/8" steel to go under the carpet with a pair
> of bolts running down through the rail tack welded to the plate (to
> prevent turning). Carriage bolts would be nice -- 1/2" because they are
> grade 3 or ungraded -- you need grade 5 to use 3/8". The rounded heads
> won't "bump" under the carpet much. The RACE (company name) adjustable
> ladder bar kit is the next beast and easiest to install. It runs $260
> from Summit, and you can modify the existing panhard rod and mount
> provided it's the same as the 63 mount (axle end bolts on to one of the
> truss rod mounts). You may be able to use a diagonal bar instead of a
> panhard rod or triangulated four link. This mounts one end of a bar on
> the axle end of a lower link, the other end on the opposite chassis end
> of a lower link. This works link with parallel four link or the ladder
> bars.
> 
> 3. I've sent a simplified line drawing of the truck arm suspension to
> your account. It has the springs mounted on the arms, but shold clear
> anything up the HRTH photos don't show. 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com

_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list

or go to http://www.amc-list.com