AMC-List Digest, Vol 7, Issue 43

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Today's Topics:

   1. FASTEN SEAT BELT BUZZER (markskur1@xxxxxxx)
   2. Re: 65 Ambassador convertible prototypes? (Mark Price)
   3. Best 6 CYl muffler for stock AMX? Cordova HOOOOOOO! (Jesse)
   4. $50 Kammback (Eddie Stakes)
   5. Re: M-35/T-96 trans options (francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
   6.  74 AMX BUILD SHEET LOCATION? (francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
   7.  Ford Marti Report (francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
   8. Still having a/c problems with 83 Spirit (Marty Bricker)
   9.  65 Ambassador convertible prototypes?
      (francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
  10. Re: Still having a/c problems with 83 Spirit (Tom Jennings)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 18:36:46 -0400
From: markskur1@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] FASTEN SEAT BELT BUZZER
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <8C893896B784E98-30C-1105F@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My fasten seat belt buzzer just stopped buzzing today, and I cannot fiqure out why.
It was working fine until today.
I know it's a pain to listen to, however, it shows the originality of this car
Any ideas?
 
Thanks,
mark
 
74 AMX driver 
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 16:45:05 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Ambassador convertible prototypes?
To: Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
	amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <6869876.1156203905622.JavaMail.root@web21>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

good question! If being a 5 seat makes it a prototype, mine is too!
I'm puttin it on ebay! After all it's a "rare" car now! Must be worth sumpin!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> On both those 65 Rambler Ambassador convertibles on ebay, I got back a nice 
> email from both sellers. I am still confused as to what makes a regular 
> production car a prototype. One mentioned the build sheet. But build sheets 
> were printed well in advance of models. For instance here is a 71 AMX build 
> sheet:
> 
> http://www.planethoustonamx.com/parts/71amxbuildsheet.JPG
> 
> It don't make it a 69 prototype anything, it still makes it one of 2054 made 
> in 1971.
> 
> So while there is a blog on there, which is neat, I am still either stumped 
> or missing something?
> 
> 
> Eddie Stakes'
> Planet Houston AMX
> 713.464.8825
> eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> www.planethoustonamx.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 20:02:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jesse <j2sax@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Best 6 CYl muffler for stock AMX? Cordova
	HOOOOOOO!
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060822030209.91863.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

OK, so I want to get a better sound a little better
perf in my 79 AMX 258/4 spd that I am taking to
Cordova.  I am going to lose the cat and muffler,
which by the way, look really good!  The car only has
39K original miles and it looks like the ex may have
had some parts replaced already... I know, Iknow,
don't hack up a survivor.  

SO, when I used to run my 258 with dual turbo's,
people thought it was a V8 and it sounded GOOOOOD. 
Well, there are a million new mufflers out there since
then and I wanted to tap your knowledge.  I don't want
some really loud, obnoxious sound nor do I want her to
rumble on the highway.  I am going to keep it to a
stock exhaust (2 Inch, right?) and just open it up a
bit.  

I like the looks of the Purple hornies, though they
are probably too loud... Like the Hushpower
FLowmasters also, but have never heard them. 
Edelbrocks sound AWEsome on V8's, but I have not heard
them with a 6.  

Even considering some stainless steel COFFEE CAN
(GASP!), but not too hard!

THanks for your help!  

Jesse

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 21:51:35 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] $50 Kammback
To: "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
	"Doug Shepard" <dshepard@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <048501c6c597$76da7640$e8f3b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Hey look a $50 Kammback!
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZdrexel1804
item number is 250021145873
rare little car, ain't mine!
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 04:18:08 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] M-35/T-96 trans options
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
	<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E660A3@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

I, and a few others, have seriously considered some kind of adapter or
bracket to allow use of a torque tube with a newer trans. You'd think it
would be simple enough, but the rear axle actually pushes the tube to
make the car move. A bracket on the crossmember sounds good, but the
engine is on rubber mounts and you can't have movement between the TT
and engine. AMCs solution was to rubber mount the trans crossmember as
well, but there is still semi-rigid link between the engine and TT. So
the TT has to be mounted to the trans itself. This puts more stress on
the engine and trans mount, and newer ones weren't designed for fore and
aft stresses. So it really isn't practical. Nor is using the rear axle.
The pinion shaft isn't drilled for a bolt to hold a yoke on, and I'm not
sure it has the same splines and diameter as open drive axle pinion
shafts. The seal is designed to fit the slip coupling at the axle and
may not fit around a yoke and an open drive axle seal may not fit the
seal carrier (especially if the yoke is bigger in diameter). Since axles
are relatively easy to swap even between makes, it just isn't practical
to spend a couple hundred dollars modifying the old TT axle. 

What really brought this up was Andrew's mention of length. The TT
internal shaft on sixes is like an axle shaft. It would need to be
resplined if shortened, and can't be easily lengthend. A new shaft would
be required, or a longer slip coupling for the axle end could be made is
only an inch or less more length was needed. Both would be costly --
even shortening and having tho original resplined would be a bit
expensive.  

The V-8 shaft, however, is in two pieces. The front is tubular and can
be made longer or shorter by any driveline shop, as can the outer tube.
The only problem with V-8 shafts is the CV joint on 63-66 models. Those
are the only years that joint was used, and it was only used by one
other company -- Lincoln. The joint nor repair parts are no longer made.
Earlier Rambler V-8s only used a single joint, so the CV joint isn't
really necessary. So the shaft can be lengthened and a single joint or
even a newer/different style CV joint used. The trans end can't be
reused, but all the BW V-8 trannys used the same yoke as a T-10, and
that is still available, or one can be picked up at a salvage yard from
any 67-71 AMC driveshaft. 

---------------------------------------------------
Date: Monday, August 21, 2006 09:41 AM
From: andrew hay <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
" From: farna@xxxxxxx
"
"
" While having a more modern trans would certainly be a benefit, you're
" hindered by the torque tube. I don't think a T-14 or T-15 will bolt
" right in, just the T-86 or T-89. Heavy duty, but still no synchro
" first.

both the t-14 and t-15 would fit the engine side but of course were
never made in tt versions, so you'd have to find one of the rare o/d
versions so you could swap your od-tt adapter parts on, but they'd
probably end up the wrong length...

if you wanted to try making an adapter, you could start with a car
t-14 or t-15.  put a 4wd tailshaft housing on it and make the adapter
bolt to it on one side, the tt on the other.




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 04:25:18 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List]  74 AMX BUILD SHEET LOCATION?
To: <markskur1@xxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
	<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E660A4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Good luck Mark! The build sheets weren't intentionally left in the cars.
Several were with the car and different assemblies as it went down the
line. Workers often left them under carpets, stuck in seat springs under
the seat, above the headliner, and in door panels -- wherever they
wouldn't be seen. If they were left visible they were removed. It's luck
to find a build sheet, though in the 70s they seem to have been more
commonly left in the car somewhere. The areas I listed are where they
are most commonly found. Removing the back seat and checking under the
bottom and behind the back cushion isn't much work, but all the other
places are, and the search may be futile. Even if you find it it may not
be legible after years of sitting. 

--------------------
Date: Monday, August 21, 2006 11:05 AM
From: markskur1@xxxxxxx 
Can somebody assist me in locating the build sheet for my 74 AMX?
Did AMC put build sheets in the car?




------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 04:28:53 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List]  Ford Marti Report
To: <markskur1@xxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
	<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E660A5@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

No such database has ever been available for AMCs. The factory never
even kept those kind of records for individual cars as far as I know.
There are a few people with records of a few years and models stating
what final assembly numbers were built during certain months, but that's
as detailed as it gets. With the company now gone, there is no real hope
of getting any further info. But as I said, the company never kept
records in that much detail -- wouldn't help for older cars even if AMC
still existed. 


------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 21:33:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marty Bricker <mbrickerusn@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Still having a/c problems with 83 Spirit
To: northtexasamc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <20060822043336.4569.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Still unable to determine why the compressor will not
turn on.  I probably should've done some better t/s
but it doesn't appear to be the low pressure switch
that's the problem.  I replaced the switch and there
still is no power to the compressor.  I jumpered from
the battery to the compressor and the system is
blowing cold air but the compressor still will not
start on its own.  I traced the wire from the low
pressure switch on the wire diagram and the path goes
low press sw-thermostat-microswitch-blower switch.  
The fuse for the compressor clutch and blower is good.
 the switch operates the blower motor and, when
jumpered, the system blows cold air (I assume this
means the thermostat is working).  The write up in the
TSM is vague so I don't know where the elusive
microswitch is.  Should I have 12V at the connector
that connects to the low pressure switch?  This thing
is giving me a real beating...looking for any help. 
Thanks. 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 04:41:07 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List]  65 Ambassador convertible prototypes?
To: <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
	<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E660A6@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"


Actually, the date on the build sheet seems to indicate that either it's
a form number (it was "printed", not filled in by a computer printer or
typewriter), or AMC typically filled orders two years in advance. Either
one indicates that the 65 convert is just a 65 convert. 

I've never paid much attention to build sheets -- never found one in any
of my cars (only owned 3 70s-80s, others mostly 65 or older -- haven't
looked in the 68 American parts car though, and probably won't). It's
interesting to see that AMC basically continued to use their old
letter/number serial number system when cars were ordered. The letter
was dropped and the six digits used on the VIN when the tag was created.
"Z" for a Javelin, obviously. I wonder if the letter was just for body
or also indicated engine size, or just engine size? That would take more
research, and really wouldn't help anyone except those very few with
build sheets for their cars.

------------------------------
Date: Monday, August 21, 2006 04:37 PM
From: eddiestakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
On both those 65 Rambler Ambassador convertibles on ebay, I got back a
nice
email from both sellers. I am still confused as to what makes a regular
production car a prototype. One mentioned the build sheet. But build
sheets
were printed well in advance of models. For instance here is a 71 AMX
build
sheet:

http://www.planethoustonamx.com/parts/71amxbuildsheet.JPG

It don't make it a 69 prototype anything, it still makes it one of 2054
made
in 1971.

So while there is a blog on there, which is neat, I am still either
stumped
or missing something?




------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 23:00:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Still having a/c problems with 83 Spirit
To: AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: northtexasamc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0608212252000.5159@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 21 Aug 2006, Marty Bricker wrote:

> Still unable to determine why the compressor will not
> turn on.  I probably should've done some better t/s
> but it doesn't appear to be the low pressure switch
> that's the problem.  I replaced the switch and there
> still is no power to the compressor.  I jumpered from
> the battery to the compressor and the system is
> blowing cold air but the compressor still will not
> start on its own.  I traced the wire from the low
> pressure switch on the wire diagram and the path goes
> low press sw-thermostat-microswitch-blower switch.  
> The fuse for the compressor clutch and blower is good.
>  the switch operates the blower motor and, when
> jumpered, the system blows cold air (I assume this
> means the thermostat is working).  The write up in the
> TSM is vague so I don't know where the elusive
> microswitch is.  Should I have 12V at the connector
> that connects to the low pressure switch?  This thing
> is giving me a real beating...looking for any help. 

You just gotta get methodical. The circuit goes:

battery --> ignition switch --> fan switch* --> dash temp switch -> safety switch --> AC clutch.

*depending on model/year, the fan switch has extra contacts that the
dash temp runs through, or picks off fan voltage.

** A/C wont run if the car is off
** A/C wont run if the fan isnt running (duh)
** A/C wont run if there is no pressure in the system
** A/C wont run if it's already cold enough in the cabin


If you use a voltmeter or a lamp on a wire, one end conncted
to ground, you should see voltage on one side of the safety
switch or other iff: ignition on, fan on, temp knob cranked
to cold. Experiment turning each of those off. Voltage should
go on/off.

You can easily test the AC clutch (though  sounds like yours
is fine).  Igition off, car not running; run a wire from
battery + to the wire to the compressor clutch -- >>CLICK<<
the clutch goes on. Quite loud. Doin so with the engine idling,
you can hear the engine slow down from the load.

Even if things are not right, it'll be OK to run the compressor
for a few seconds at a time. If it's out of freon and/or oil,
running it for minutes can do harm, but it's OK to click on
to check for buildin uyp pressure -- if it is, and there;'s an
oil charge in it, it'll be fine.

If it runs and blows cold air when you jumper the safety switch,
then the safety switch is probably bad. Since you'd have to
depressurize the system to change it, you can short it and be
very careful not to run the system if doin so doesn't make cold
-- you have to be your own safety switch.



------------------------------

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 7, Issue 43
***************************************