Re: [AMC-List] Strut bushings

[<francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

That's a good thought Andrew -- if the ball joint tapers are the same
(they changed somtime in the mid sixties) that should work. I know the
ball joint mount bolt pattern changed at some point too, and that would
affect using an old style ball joint with a new arm/strut rod. The ball
joint mounting plate (attached to the joint) can be drilled, but it is a
hard steel and needs to be done at the correct speed in a drill press
with cutting oil. 

I cut two Concord strut rods and two 63 Classic strut rods and welded
them together. This DOES NOT affect the strength of the rods! The rod
ends were ground to a bevel down to ~1/8" diameter flats in the center.
The very center of the rods were welded with 6010 rods for best
penetration, then the diameter was built up with 7010. The first two
numbers in the rod number is the tensile strngth of the metal in 1,000
psi units -- 60,000 and 70,000 in this case. This is typical welding
practice. The composition of the 6010 rods allow a high penetration,
while the stronger 7010 rod penetrates a little less but builds up
(fills in) much better. The weld is actually stronger than the metal --
even the stronger steel used for the strut rod. If a weld breaks it will
usually break at the edge of the weld. The metal isn't usually as strong
as the weld material or (and) it was overheated. The key it to weld a
litte, let it cool, then weld some more. For the strut rods it's easy! I
clamped the rods in the valley of a piece of angle iron, which also
acted as a heat sink. Only about 1/2 of the strut rod can be welded a a
time. Then it's turned and the other side welded. The weld should be
about 1/8" thick at a time, so it takes about three passes to build it
back to a little thicker than required. Leave it clamped in until it
cools close to room temperature -- at least an hour. DO NOT "quench"
(cool) with water right away!! Give it a minimum of 30 minutes to cool
naturally, then it can be cooled with a damp (but not dripping wet)
towel. An hour is better! Quenching will add hardness -- but it will be
brittle and break a lot easier. 

You don't have to have a pair of adjustable strut rods. A 6" grade 8
threaded steel stud the correct diameter, available at industrial
fastener supply houses, will work just fine. Cut 6" off the original
strut rod and weld the stud to the end using the same method. 

--------------------------
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2006 03:29 PM
From: andrew hay <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  
" From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
"
" []
"
" (1) good replacement strut bushings for the
" non-adjustable-strut-rod cars (eg. 63, 64 Classic/Ambo) do
" not exist, and nothing can be substituted for them -- but good
" replacements are easily fabricated. Here's how (old news):
"
" http://wps.com/AMC/Strut-bushing/index.html

i see where you say the '65-up strut rod is the right length but the
control arm end is angled wrong.  would it be possible to use '65-up
lower control arms on the '63-4 cars?  unmodified modern bushings
could then be used.


_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list

or go to http://www.amc-list.com