AMC-List Digest, Vol 6, Issue 32
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 6, Issue 32
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- Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 05:24:51 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: 401 surging/sock (Matt Haas)
2. Re: 401 surging/sock (ROSS BLAIR)
3. Re: 401 Surging/ Sock (John Elle)
4. Cloth Seat Material (Jim Boone)
5. Re: Shipped! Trans coming, Rear Axle? (Sandwich Maker)
6. Re: weather pack connectors (Frank Swygert)
7. Re: Halogen Sealed Beam Headlights (Frank Swygert)
8. Re: 64 Typhoon project (Frank Swygert)
9. Re: 401 surging (Frank Swygert)
10. Re: 401 surging/sock (Frank Swygert)
11. Re: Halogen Sealed Beam Headlights (Ken Ames)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 21:31:42 -0400
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 401 surging/sock
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20060712213003.027d3f78@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Did they change in the later years? I got one from Kennedy American last
year for my 67 American and it was about $4.00.
Matt
At 04:20 PM 7/12/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>Isn't the discussion of whether you have one or not rather moot anyway?
>I have been unable to locate a source to purchase one at for quite a few
>years now!
>John
>_______________________________________________
>AMC-List mailing list
>AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>or go to http://www.amc-list.com
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
===============================================================
According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by
UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 06:36:59 +0500
From: "ROSS BLAIR" <bigbad69@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 401 surging/sock
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060713013659.704E01158CC@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
Isn't the discussion of whether you have one or not rather moot anyway?
I have been unable to locate a source to purchase one at for quite a few
years now!
John
>
I got mine at a local Ford dealer about 4 years ago. Part number D1F2 9A011-A for a 5/16" inlet. At the time it was still a good number. It may have been discontinued since, I don't know, but with all the Mustangs being re-built, I would think there is still a market for them.
Ross Blair
69 BBO Javelin 390
Ottawa, Ont.
--
___________________________________________________
Play 100s of games for FREE! http://games.mail.com/
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 20:24:35 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 401 Surging/ Sock
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <000901c6a62b$e11ff3d0$90dd0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Ross
SNIP
I got mine at a local Ford dealer about 4 years ago. Part number D1F2
9A011-A
for a 5/16" inlet. At the time it was still a good number. It may have
been
discontinued since, I don't know, but with all the Mustangs being
re-built, I
would think there is still a market for them.
Ross Blair
SNIP
I have used a FRAM Filter, part number CG 12 and I believe it is a
replaceable filter for one of those Glass gasoline fuel line filters
Eddie has been talking about. Of which I have used them too 'specially
in a diagnostics mode when trying to verify fuel flow.
This is an item I have not tried an AMC vendor for as I have run across
the need and the solution on the same day, but any of the local auto
parts stores don't even seem to carry listings for them anymore so I
guess I have quit looking. Thanks for the Ford Part number I will see if
I can purchase one around here some where OR at the next automotive swap
meet I would bet that a Ford Parts Vendor will carry something that can
work.
John.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:04:13 -0400
From: "Jim Boone" <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Cloth Seat Material
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY116-F3482024DF8059DD4AD4C5AAC6E0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I got samples of 4 different stock '72 AMC cloth patterns from SMS Auto
Fabrics. They didn't label them per how AMC did, just simply "A" "B" "C"
"D".
A & B patterns I recognize from the picture Joe Fulton sent me from his
interior book. C is a plain green fabric (Gremlin or Hornet?), and D is
fancier, and looks to be from what an Ambassador would have.
The only correct one for a Matador Wagon is the "B" offering, and while I
like originality, I just don't think I could live with that - too gaudy IMO.
I'm really thinking the Ambo fabric!
Next step is to try and dig up photos of actual interiors from '72. Anyone
have some good brochure shots they could scan and send?
Thanks,
Jim Boone
Mims, FL
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 09:02:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Shipped! Trans coming, Rear Axle?
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200607121302.k6CD2aV23442@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
"
" There are wheels that have the
" old GM 5x4.75" pattern and the Ford/Chryco/AMC 5x4.5" pattern, but I
" think the S-10 uses the newer metric pattern.
what is the new metric pattern? it occurs to me it might just be the
old one -- 4.75" = 120.65mm...
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:13:47 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] weather pack connectors
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62ednHM3SOl000000af@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
There are several wiring kits around. Painless is the most well known
because of advertising more than anything else, but they do have an
excellent product. I've had some experience with different kits and all
are pretty much along the same lines. Most use GM wiring colors for the
circuits since GMs are the most popular. One, "Snap-In", I believe,
uses a modular fuse block with mini fuses -- these are much better for
tight fit areas. You'll need to get a universal kit which adds a foot
or so of wire to each run. On some you suppy the terminals on the end,
some come with a terminal kit (or have it as an option). Some have not
only different colors but the names of the circuits (i.e.- HEADLIGHTS,
IGNITION, etc.) printed along the wires. Painless does that. I have to
say that by far the finest of all is Ron Francis stuff. They make (or
have made) their own switches and such too. I've had replacement
pressure type brake light switches fail in less than a year after
replacement on a daily driver. A Ron Francis switch in a friends car
has been there a couple years now with no problems. I converted to a
pedal mounted switch, but will use a Ron Francis switch if I ever need
one again.
You should have no problem wiring the car with any of the kits Dave!
For others, just mount the fuse box, pull the tangle of wires through,
and run one circuit at a time. The kit suppliers usually have all the
terminals, and most can be purchases from the local parts store.
WeatherPak connectors would be great to use where connectors are
needed.
On July 12, 2006 d stohler wrote:
> hmm... been needing to rewire the 62 classic..... i guess im goin to
have to get to gether everything i need now to wire it with their
connectors. wonder if you
> could use a painless wiring kit, with these connectors??.... hmm..
interesting.
>
> by the way, has anyone on the list here ever rewired with one of
them painless wiring muscle car kits?? or any of the painless wiring
kits at all? just wondering how "painless" they really make it. heck, i
been rewiring HETS that have wires that are all black, just #'s on
them. anything with colors now will be NO PROBLEM. i am the only guy in
our unit who has any experience with electrical. anyway, have a great
day all.
>
> dave stohler
> camp taji iraq
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone
call rates.
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:35:03 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Halogen Sealed Beam Headlights
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62ix4A2DreB000000b2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
By federal law you're limited to 55W dim, 60W bright, headlights. So
you can't legally pull more power. The halogen lights are brighter
because of the materials they're made with -- they pull no more power.
It's technically illegal to run higher wattage lights on a street
vehicle, but some people do. With the modern lights such as HIDs (also
illegal in some states) and halogens, it's hard to tell if they are
higher wattage than allowed. Unless you're blinding the cop coming
toward you he's not likely to ticket you for to bright headlights!
Unless you're running something like HIDs (obvious by the bluish glow)
and they are illegal in your state.
IIRC, four headlight systems use all four lights only on dim, so
actually draw more power on dim than bright (55x4=220W; 18A@12V). When
on high beam the inboard lights (dim only) go out (60x2=120W; 10A@12V).
Of course placement of the filament in the bulb (reflector) and aiming
has a great affect on lighting.
On July 12, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Jul 2006, Mr. AMC wrote:
>
> > Do the halogen sealed beams draw any more amperage than regular
sealed
> > beams? I don't want to cook the wiring. Also do they become hotter
than
> > regular sealed beams. I have plastic headlight doors in my orange
Hornet
> > and I don't want to melt or warp them. I have never use them so
these
> > questions may seem stupid but I had to ask.
>
> I don't think they draw any more current, or get hotter, than
> the old ones. They use a really hot filament inside a bulb
> (inside the sealed housing) that contains a gas that slows
> the burnout of the filament. I run them exclusively, and in
> plastic-grilled cars (75 Gremlin) absolutely no problem.
>
> I now run removable-bulb type headlamps (H4 bulbs I think).
> Cibie makes good reflectors; you can get equiv. reflectors from
> Summit. About $40/side for 8". Good ones have a half-moon light
> pattern that puts all the light on the road, not in drivers
> eyes. 55W lamps (more current) and I run relays and short, fat
> wiring to the battery. Both the 63 Rambler and the Hornet. (In
> the Rambler, the old headlight switch burned up, I had to rebuid
> the contacts myself (desktop surgery) and ran relays to take the
> load of the senile switch. That all happened before the Cibies.
=============================================================
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------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 00:54:52 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 64 Typhoon project
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62BsQwY6YHk000000b5@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
The skeleton body, or basic shell, stayed pretty much the same from
63-66. This meant the glass area remained the same also. The outer
panels ("skin") changed radically for 1965 though, and the Ambassador
was again stretched to a longer wheelbase, all in front of the
firewall. This only affected the front end of the car. AFAIK the
torque-tube is the same length as the Classic, but the Ambo may have a
slightly longer one. The crossmember is different because the engine is
set back more in the Ambo, but I'm not sure that it was set that far
back. It's been a long time since I've seen a 65-66 Ambo, and I just
haven't remembered to notice if the engine is the same distance from
the firewall as the Classic.
George Romney planned the 63-64 Classic/Ambo/American to share as many
components as possible to make them as cost effective as could be.
Doors from four door Americans and Classics will interchange, but the
outer skins are slightly different. Even that saved a lot of money on
stamping machines and dies for the inner door parts. Abernethy couldn't
change the 63-64 car lines when he took over in 61 or 62, they were
already planned and machinery ordered to build them. The first cars he
could influence were the 65s, and he set out to destroy that product
integration that would have saved AMC. He wanted more distinction
between the cars, but it drove costs up and profits down. In his
defense, his goal was to grow and compete with the "Big Three" head on.
All he managed to do, however, was deplete all the cash reserves AMC
had laboriously built up in the late 50s and early 60s. His main
mistake, other than ruining product integration, was alienating
traditional Rambler "value" customers by attempting to move the product
line into higher profit Buick/Pontiac/Mercury/Chrysler territory and
out of Ford/Chevy/Dodge pricing. The only problem was that mid price
range was a lot more competitive and crowded than the lower ends of the
auto market, where the high volume American and mainly Classic
traditionally sold well. Dropping the Rambler name didn't really help
either -- it was still a highly respected name at the time, though it
was mostly associated with economy and value.
We can use our hindsight and second guess all day, it won't change
anything, but I'd have kept a Rambler line with the American and a
stripped version of the Classic/Rebel, then had an AMC line with a
higher trimmed Classic/Rebel and the Ambo, along with the performance
cars. I'd still have made an SC/Rambler and a Rogue though, and
probably kept them in the Rambler line (American body exclusive to the
Rambler line). When the Hornet came out I think I might have THEN
considered dropping the Rambler name -- it would depend totally on how
sales had been. Might have been best to keep a Rambler Hornet though...
who knows!!!??
On July 12, 2006 KENT ANDERSON wrote:
> > ..... you can use all the parts you need from any 63-66 Classic or
Ambo
> two door hardtop
>
> Thank you, Frank, for reminding me of the exact years those cars were
all similar. I wasn't sure if '65 made any radical changes to the
parts, or not. I have an offer from Mark, up in WV, and am giving it
SERIOUS consideration. It's a pretty long haul from SW Florida to his
place, but should be a nice drive.
>
> I've replaced the timing set in Typhoon II, but still not starting.
Sure will be a red letter day when I hear that engine fire! After
doing some extremely minor body repair on Typhoon II, I'm gettin more
and more excited about the prospect of being able to take two of them
to the local cruise-ins.
>
> Thank you, to everyone, for your input and help. Total novice here,
and every ounce of information is a huge help!
>
> Kenny
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------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 01:03:18 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 401 surging
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62mcK8r6beU000000b7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
If you run without the sock I'd put a coarse filter BEFORE the fuel
pump, electric or mechanical. The pump may not like getting chunks
sucked through it. Otherwise it's just what Tom said -- larger flakes
of rust (not uncommon in a really old car) could stop the end up
momentarily.
On July 12, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Jul 2006, russ hathaway wrote:
>
> > Is a gas tank sock really needed? When I repaced the
> > tank in my Hornet, the sock was almost gone. I tore it
> > off, cleaned all the residue and installed it with an
> > open end. I am running a cheapo filter just off the
> > tank, then the fuel pump and a nice filter just before
> > the engine. The mechanical pump has been stripped and
> > is just plugging a hole. Isn't the sock just a
> > strainer anyways.......Russ
>
> The only problem I can see happening, and it's not THAT low a
> probability, is if you were to get say a piece of tree leaf in
> there, it could suck up flat against the angle-cut end of the
> tube and totally cut off fuel.
>
> You'd die cruisign flat an level on a freeway; pull over,
> scratch head, car restarts, problem never recurs, because
> the leaf moved out of the way while braking with engine off,
> awaiting the next coincidence. Chalk it up to "oldcaritis".
>
> Any old sort of crap screen on the end of the pickup would
> reduce this probability to zero.
>
> Aren't old cars fun?
=============================================================
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------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 01:11:44 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 401 surging/sock
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62zmRf6Ci6n000000b8@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
If the sock construction on most is like the one that was on my 63
Classic, there is a solution! There is a large rubber piece that slides
over the pickup tube that the sock was attached to. I don't recall how,
but think it was glued/bonded in some way. The sock had disentegrated,
but the rubber was still solid. I bought a fuel filter for an in-tank
fuel pump that was cylindrical and about the same diameter as the
rubber piece. I don't recall what the filter was for, just that it
looked to be the right diameter. I cut the longest end off, slipped it
over the rubber, and used a piece of stainless steel tie wire to secure
it.
Another option: 60s Mustangs used a 5/16" pickup line also. I think
replacement socks are repro'd for them. On my latest tank (I've made my
own!) I found a small plastic filter cartridge that will just fit
snugly on the end of the line. It looks like it was made to go inside
some type of housing, but it presses on the line good for me! At the
worst it will clog easily (it appears to be finer than a sock) and I'll
have to use the air hose to blow it off and install a filter between
the fuel pump and pickup. I still have to finish the tank when I get
back, one of a couple projets I had to leave hanging to go to
Afghanistan. But it's all ready to seal up and put in the Rambler!! Of
course there will be a write-up on building your own gas tank in AIM
later.
On July 12, 2006 John Elle wrote:
> Isn't the discussion of whether you have one or not rather moot
anyway?
> I have been unable to locate a source to purchase one at for quite a
few
> years now!
> John
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------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 23:24:42 -0600
From: Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Halogen Sealed Beam Headlights
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1152768282.44b5d91a76873@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I have a couple "Ultra White" 9004 bulbs that supposedly are 65/45 watt but the
label also mentions 'Xenon equivalent brilliance' 100watts, and also 'DOT/SAE
compliant.
Ken
Quoting Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> " From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
> "
> " Do the halogen sealed beams draw any more amperage than regular sealed
> " beams? I don't want to cook the wiring. Also do they become hotter than
> " regular sealed beams. I have plastic headlight doors in my orange Hornet
> " and I don't want to melt or warp them. I have never use them so these
> " questions may seem stupid but I had to ask.
>
> by law headlights are supposed to be 55w or 60w max, regardless of
> bulb type. [xenon projectors are supposed to be 35w, which imho is
> still too much] sealed beam halogens would be fine and might even run
> microscopically cooler, since they radiate more of their power as
> light. there are enhanced halogens that work afaik by coating the
> lens with a heat mirror, trapping the radiant heat and letting them
> run a 75w filament - with its light output - on 55w. i would expect
> these to be hotter since they can't radiate as much heat away and must
> conduct it.
>
> replaceable halogen bulbs can be had in several higher powers - 80w,
> 100w, 130w - but while you may get away with them it isn't strictly
> legal.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
>
------------------------------
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 6, Issue 32
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