Re: [AMC-List] 4/5 speed on 196

[<francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Well, it can be done, but it ain't easy! The first problem is the bell
housing. The later model six bell won't fit (72 up uses same bolt
pattern as the V-8), and the early bell (all 1957-71 sixes, some
earlier) has a "short" bolt pattern -- something like 6-6.5" from top to
bottom bolts. Four and five speed trannys have something like 8" between
the top and bottom bolts. 

You can fit an SR-4, T-4, or T-5 tranny though. Use the original bell
housing. The first thing is to have a machine shop match the center hole
to the bearing retainer on the new trans. The old T-96 has a smaller
retainer. THIS IS IMPORTANT! The retainer is what aligns the trans with
the engine. IT MUST BE CENTERED. That's why I suggest a machine shop.
The bell can be centered on a vertical mill or large lathe then easily
cut for a snug slip fit of the retainer. It's possible to do this on a
good drill press, but the bell MUST be accurately centered first. You
can only be off center 0.005" or you'll rip the clutch hub apart. I
found this out the hard way on another project. 

Once that's done, get a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate. It needs to be
cut to fit the front of the transmission. You may need to make a spacer
for the bearing retainer as it must extend through the plate and into
the bell. The top two transmission bolt holes will align with the
transmission, so just drill the holes through. The bottom two on the
original bell should be drilled and counter sunk for a countersunk
machine bolt. The head needs to be flush with the plate. Then drill the
bottom two holes through the plate. Take some 1.25" wide, 1/8" thick
strap steel and make a pair of braces that mount to the engine side of
the bottom two holes and extend to the bell housing. The best place to
anchor the straps is where the engine mounts bolt to the bell. 

Alternately, use 1/8" plate steel. You'll want to bend a 1/2" lip on the
sides back toward the trans for strength. That will allow the retainer
to go through the plate and into the bell. You'll have to put the bell
on then mark the two lower bell trans bolt holes on the front of the
trans. Drill and tap the trans case for two 5/16" bolts. Bolt the trans
to the top holes, then install the 5/16" bolts from the inside. Make the
two lower braces as above. This is a bit more work, especially
installing the trans (remove the crossmember and tilt the engine back,
more room than in the later model American and Hornets) with the bell
installed, but will result in better trans to engine alignment. 

I thought all this out and started to mount an SR-4 to my 196 years ago,
but decided to keep the automatic instead. I didn't have the tools to do
all the work myself like I do now. Well, most of it anyway. I think I'd
still get a shop to enlarge the retainer hole, pretty sure my drill
press isn't accurate enough for 0.005" tolerance.

Now for the clutch. The original clutch has some designed in slip. That
makes the car easy to drive. I forget the size of the clutch, but the
E-stick clutch was at least 1/2" larger in diameter. You'll need a disc
that will fit the trans and the right diameter pressure plate. You might
have to redrill the flywheel for a larger diameter pressure plate, but
make sure it will fit in the bell. I'd start with a Pinto or Mustang II
2.3L four pressure plate since that's the disc you will need. It should
fit, but I'm not sure. Alternately, if the disc will fit in the pressure
plate (I think it will -- I can't recall for sure but think I tried the
AMC SR-4 disc and it would fit the 196 pressure plate), you can have a
speed shop rebuild the original pressure plate with stronger springs.
You'll have to check around or search the Internet for someone who can
do that.

If the shifter is your main problem there's an easier solution. Find and
install a Twin-Stick shifter. The shifter from a Classic will fit also.
Just don't wire the OD like the original Twin-Stick or try shifting by
splitting the gears. The T-S trans has a big gap between 2nd and 3rd so
you can shift 1-2-2OD-3-3OD. With the regular trans 2OD and 3 are
practically the same gearing. The kick-down switch is on top of the T-S
shifter so you can kick it out of OD easily. But there are a lot more
controls to keep you from blowing the OD. Unless you get ALL the
switches and such with the T-S shifter (and I DON'T recommend it!),
leave all the OD wiring as is. You could remove the OD lock-out lever
and cover with a leather boot, using just the three speed shifter and
the under dash lock-out cable. 


--- original message -----------------------------------
Date: Saturday, July 1, 2006 12:33 PM
From: M Walter <redamc1963@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
hello AMC land,   I would like to put a 4 speed trans in my 62 american
convertible.  It currently has a dual 1bbl carb 196 T-96 3 speed w/o.d.
I
put a Hurst truck floor shifter in it, whic works great but interferes
with
the o.d.  The clutch is also too weak for this motor. 


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