Re: [AMC-List] AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 55

[Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jim,
  Your wagon does not have an actual porportioning valve. It just has a warning light switch built into it. You can tap the adjustable valve into the rear brake line anywhere it is convenient for you to get to it and make the adjustment, leaving the original block in place. If you have rear brake lock up after installing the discs, install the valve. No rear wheel lockup??? Don't bother with the valve. It will only reduce pressure and not increase it in any way. My American would need a valve with it's currect brake setup if I wasn't running the large 255/60/15 tires on the rear. Skinnys would lock up way to early. But with the large tires on mine it is fairly well balanced. A panic stop gives me rear lockup just slightly before fronts.
  On my American I run 82 Concord discs, stock 9" rear drums and use a 79 Mustang manual disc brake master [which I don't recomend, it takes to much work to adapt, I bought it when I did't know any better] I had to weld the hole closed int he brake pedal and redrill it to get the pedal height correct, plus redrill the firewall holes to allow the master to bolt up. It Works good now, but not worth all the effort when I could have just bought the correct master! live and learn!
  On the 82 discs, when you assemble they will give you two antirattle springs per side. Only use one. Place it on the trailing edge of the pad to hold the pad forward in the direction of rotation. Placing the springs on both ends only leads to noises from the pads rattling around back and forth. We found this out way back in 82 on the new cars as a lot of people complained of all the clunking and clicking from the pads flopping around. IIRC it was an recomendation from the local factory rep at the time. I was surprised to see four springs even included in the hardware kits when I did the American!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Jim Boone <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> I'm not sure I'm understanding you guys;  Should the adjustable 
> proportioning valve - aka Wildwood or whatever the brand is - be IN ADDITION 
> to the stock AMC proportioning valve?  You just junction the line to the 
> rear brakes AFTER it goes through the stock one?  Or, should I try and 
> remove the stock one alltogether?
> 
> The brake warning light is coming off of the stock PPV?
> 
> Jim Boone
> Mims, FL
> 
> >Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 11:35:47 -0700
> >From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> >Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Brake balance valve
> 
> >On Tue, 2006-06-27 at 10:49 -0700, russ hathaway wrote:
> > > So Brian, do I understand that if I don't care for the
> > > warning light (when I run into that semi I will know
> > > the brakes failed) I can just do without that doo dad.
> > > I would like to hook up my brake sending unit off that
> > > first junction, then get an adjustable prop valve like
> > > all them big city hot rods have.....Russ
> >
> >Yup. I now wish I had done just that when I replumbed the brakes in my
> >Hornet; I recreated the factory setup (with later model brake-imbalance
> >switch setup). I should have just plumbed it without that silly valve,
> >it would have saved a lot of clutter and inconvenient brakeline bending.
> >
> >The check valve in the master cylinder provides the held-pressure for
> >the rear drum brakes.
> 
> 
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