Re: 83 SX/4 stalling problem

[Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>]

On my 83 Eagle wagon I had a bear of a time tracking down a similar
problem.  It finally came down to the EGR had rusted and created a vacuum
leak.  Capping off the hose to the EGR valve did no good since the leak
was in the diaphram of the valve itself.  Took a long time to find it
cause I thought I had eliminated the EGR by blocking off the vacuum line.

The other place to look is the main shaft of the carb holding the
butterflies.  They are known to egg out and create vacuum leaks.  Take a
can or carb cleaner and, while the engine is running, spray aroubd the
base of the carb.  If the idle changes you have found a leak.  ALL of
mine leaked around the base gasket on the side towards the firewall.  I
used a double gasket sandwich with gasket sealer and have good luck so
far.

YMMV

Wayne
Wayne and Lisa, Bolton Landing, NY, http://www.superglider.thinkhost.com
AMO#8454,
82 Eagle SX/4; 66 Ambo 990 Wagon, AC, PS, PB, PW, Apollo Yellow woody
69 Ambo Coupe, 401, M12; 83 Eagle Limited wagon

On Wed, 07 Sep 2005 08:22:59 -0400 farna@xxxxxxx writes:
> 1. Look down the carb while someone else turns the switch to 
> ignition, but DOES NOT crank the car. Does the needle move? When the 
> switch is turned on it should back out then go back in. If it 
> doesn't the stepper motor is likely bad. 
> 
> 2. Has the oxygen sensor ever been changed? Likely you can't tell -- 
> just change it. If that's bad the computer will set the carb wrong. 
> Attempting to clean it is a waste of time and effort.
> 
> 3. Finally, check or replace the CTO valves. There is one in the 
> side of the block under the manifolds, and one or two more. IIRC the 
> one under the manifolds controls vacuum for the distributor advance. 
> When the engine is cold it allows vac from the intake to pull the 
> advancs, when the engine is warm a shuttle inside the valve moves 
> and switches advance to ported vacuum from the carb. Hmmm... I may 
> have that backwards, but it switches from manifold to ported. I've 
> forgot what CTO stands for.. "T" is temperature, I do recall that!! 
> 
> 
> All the pollution control stuff can be a pain as it ages, but the 
> engine WILL run better with all of it functioning properly. If you 
> pulled it all the engine would run better than with broken down 
> controls, but not as good as with everything functioning as 
> designed.
> 
> 
> On September 6, 2005 Marty Bricker wrote:
> 
> > OK, this SX/4 is really driving me to the edge.  It
> > does not want to idle properly.  It will, at times
> > idle ok but then it will just stall out at other
> > times.  I thought it was the carb so I put on one from
> > my 86 Eagle that is going to have the engine rebuilt
> > and had the same problem.  I took the one apart and
> > checked the venturis and all of the passages and they
> > are clean and clear.  The timing is good (car runs
> > great as long as it doesn't have to idle).  I've set
> > all of the idles according to the TSM (curb, fast and
> > solenoid).  Looking in the carb the BBD needle is all
> > the way forward when the car idles but the exhaust
> > smells rich.  I've checked the vacuum lines for leaks,
> > the carb is tight and the intake manifold is sealed
> > good.  Even the emission computer inside the car has
> > been replaced.  Looking for any suggestions.  Thanks.
> > Marty
> > 
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