Re: brake info and more info needed/66 ramblers

[<mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I figured I would have to mod the pedal as my car is a 5 speed and the Ambassador is an automatic. I think I have an American pedal here I can compare it to before I actually dive in to the swap. I may just sell the stuff of and keep pushing on the manual brakes!
  I'm running a 79 Mustang master now. Maybe I should look at the booster from a mustang just to see what it would need to fit.
  Not something I'm in a big hurry to do.
Mark Price
mprice@xxxxxxxxxx
Morgantown, WV
69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed 
65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase
65 Ambassador 990H flood victim parts car!
01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date:  Wed, 07 Sep 2005 14:35:28 -0400

>IIRC the 63-66 big car booster is the same as used on the American. I'd get a rebuilt one. I have a Ford Ranger booster on mine, but that took redrilling the Rambler mount and modifying the pushrod for the booster. I also run the Ranger master cylinder. You can get a 7" hot rod booster if the original 8" booster won't fit. I'm not positive the brake pedal will interchange with the American, but the 63-66 cars were designed to have as many interchangeable parts with the 64-69 American as possible, so it might. If not you can mod the pedal. 
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>On September 7, 2005 mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>> Thanks Frank!
>> I wasn't even thinking of pulling the pedal out of the flood car!
>> Now I know I should do so if I want to add pwoer to the American.
>>   What boosters fit on the Ambassador mount? Or is there not an easy interchange that will fit into the American body?
>>   I'm pretty sure the booster in the flood car is toast. They pulled the check valve when it was torn down and flood water may have gotten into the booster.
>> Mark Price
>> mprice@xxxxxxxxxx
>> Morgantown, WV
>> 69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed
>> 65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase
>> 65 Ambassador 990H flood victim parts car!
>> 01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>> From: farna@xxxxxxx
>> Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Date:  Sun, 04 Sep 2005 20:10:07 -0400
>> 
>> >Your main problem is the conversion from manual to power brakes wasn't complete. I did such a conversion several years ago, using the power booster from a badly rusted 65 coupe for my 63 wagon. It stopped well, but the pedal was almost to the floor! the problem is the pedal arm itself is different between manual and power brakes. AMC uses a bell crank system (the extra arm between the booster brackets that connects the booster to the pedal) to move the booster higher in the engine compartment for clearance..... Early 60s big Fords use the same thing, so it's not uncommon. The pedal has to have more travel though.
>> >
>> >So how to fix it? There are two ways -- get a power brake pedal or modify the manual pedal. Either way you have to pull the pedal out, which isn't to hard. To modify the manual pedal requires welding. Cut the pedal arm about an inch below the hole the rod connects to, but DO NOT cut it all the way off! Cut from the front side all but 1/4" through, then bend the saw kerf (the gap) shut and weld along the closed cut. That will raise the pedal about an inch from the floor. If you don't like the angle of the pedal make another cut just above the pedal itelf from the BACK -- again, all but 1/4" through. Bend and weld. That will straighten the angle on the pedal without losing clearance from the floor.
>> >
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