Re: brake info and more info needed/66 ramblers

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Your main problem is the conversion from manual to power brakes wasn't complete. I did such a conversion several years ago, using the power booster from a badly rusted 65 coupe for my 63 wagon. It stopped well, but the pedal was almost to the floor! the problem is the pedal arm itself is different between manual and power brakes. AMC uses a bell crank system (the extra arm between the booster brackets that connects the booster to the pedal) to move the booster higher in the engine compartment for clearance..... Early 60s big Fords use the same thing, so it's not uncommon. The pedal has to have more travel though. 

So how to fix it? There are two ways -- get a power brake pedal or modify the manual pedal. Either way you have to pull the pedal out, which isn't to hard. To modify the manual pedal requires welding. Cut the pedal arm about an inch below the hole the rod connects to, but DO NOT cut it all the way off! Cut from the front side all but 1/4" through, then bend the saw kerf (the gap) shut and weld along the closed cut. That will raise the pedal about an inch from the floor. If you don't like the angle of the pedal make another cut just above the pedal itelf from the BACK -- again, all but 1/4" through. Bend and weld. That will straighten the angle on the pedal without losing clearance from the floor. 


On September 4, 2005 Ken Siroonian wrote:

> am looking at a 66 rambler classic, 770 convertible 287/auto, 170K. besides rust holdes, heater core bad, guages not working/bypassed with stewart guages, crack/leak in exhaust manifold, the car had manual drums, and I am told that someone added the power booster. then a new owner they put on a new booster, but they still don't feel like their is any boost. not much foot travel, and they tend to go to the floor, 


=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist