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Original Email:
A: One minor couple of "upgrades" you may want to do: 4.0L timing chain set

and cam button. Avoid any cam walk and have a nice roller chain to boot. I
haven't checked to see if the chain changed length during the 199/232 to
232/258 stage of AMC development, but matching up the timing cover should
tell you. I've used both Rol and Felpro and never had any major troubles
(except the waterpump gasket for my '73 J4000 didn't line up right. I gave
up and siliconed both sides, let it dry a minute and put it on. Don't know
who the manufacturer of that was as it came with the pump)
   Speaking of older AMC 6 cyls, on sunday I saw a '66 Rambler 2dr that I
thought was pulling into our lot, but it continued on into the shop next
door (gas delivery service) and after a couple minutes, I gave up looking
for it to circle back. Yesterday AM, I get a call. "Do you have a fuel pump

for a Rambler?" My reply was "Which motor? 196 or ?" 232 was the answer.
Turns out to be the same person (who may be reading this online now. Hi
Paul!) All we carry is the electric brick for that one and I still haven't
found the old car fuel pump catalog. Since he has vacuum wipers still, I
suggested checking out www.oldcars.com for the correct one, or upgrading
and
putting in electric wipers at the same time. (the old one is losing oil. I
don't suppose anyone still has rebuild kits for those?)
   He wants to keep it mostly original (good move) but a carb upgrade is
probably in it's future. He currently has the Holley Econojet (or whatever
the Holley 1 bbl is with the bolt on float bowl) and the points were
upgraded to pertronix already. I sold him the 2 bbl '80 intake/exhaust 
combo
I had for $20 and threw in the valve cover (that design doesn't seem to
leak
like the earlier ones) Anyone know if he has to grind out the anti-splash
guards inside to clear the rocker tube? He spent his lunch break cleaning
off all the rust and crud from the valve cover, only to find the hole
around
the oil cap was worn flat. I sold him a new chrome MrG oilcap to go where
the hose to the aircleaner used to be and he's going to braze over the OEM
oil hole.
   I tried to tempt him with a 4.0L but he's leaning more towards a 327
Nash
upgrade. (I just happen to know where there is on in a truck I was looking
at for parts) PS: If anyone near Seattle has the earlier BW 6 cyl bell, I
have an AW4 I'd like to compare it to for fit to see if an automatic trans
upgrade it possible for the "Rambler of the future". (After I move, a
Rambler may be in my future again. Depends how rough the road will be
getting to my next residence)


From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Melling vs. SealedPower and a couple other questions

I was going to take my wagon to the Teague show this year but when I tried
to start it, it was acting like the timing had jumped and I heard very
distinct "tink-tink-tink" noises coming from under the hood. I'm planning
on pulling the motor this weekend to see what's going on (I also want to
repaint it while it's out so it looks nice under the hood) but I spent a
little time today pricing parts the I think I'll need based on my ear-ball
diagnostic Saturday morning (camshaft, lifters, oil pump, timing set,
etc...). The engine in the car is a 199 six with a hair under 42,000 miles
on it and has had some work done to it in the past to un-goo it from
sitting. Prior to the not starting episode, it ran very nicely except for
the valve train noises I've posted about in the past.

The couple of places I checked out mostly carried either Melling or
SealedPower parts. I'm not going to try and squeeze any more power from the
engine and I'm not planning on any type of hard usage. Anyone have any
opinions either way on these two brands?

Also, are the ROL gasket sets better than FelPro? I've used FelPro in the
past with very good success but I don't mind spending a little extra to get
better gaskets. The price difference wasn't much but what I'm really after
is quality here.

I'm not planning on doing much to the bottom end but I am going to replace
the rear main seal while the engine's out.  Any thoughts on replacing the
rod and main bearings without having the crank machined? I'm tempted to
leave well enough alone due to mileage but when the engine's out of the car
and upside down, it isn't going to get much easier.

If anyone has suggestions for better quality stock replacement parts, I'm
open to suggestions.

Thanks,


Matt