Re: DID ANYONE ON THE LIST IN THE BAY AREA LOOK AT THIS CAR?

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Well, the aluminum block wouldn't work well with turboing. I won't think it's strong enough. It has cast iron cylinders that were placed in the mold before the aluminum was poired, so they are cast in place. The weak area is the tops of the bores. There is no support there except for the contact edges with the head. The aluminum at the bottom of the bores is thicker than the cast iron counterpart, but not enough. The problems at the time with these engines was mainly due to maintenance. Special anti-freeze had to be used as typical anti-freeze was coorsive to aluminum. The head bolts had to be torqued yearly just like the iron version, but the AL version was much more susceptible to blown head gaskets and running hot (due to blown gasket) because it used an iron head and the block expanded/contracted more. So you had to stay up on maintenance. The iron version could easily go 2-3 years without retorquing the head depending on driving conditions, but I always torqued mine eve!
 ry other year regardless -- and I put 7-8K a year on mine back when I was driving a 196 American. I think the recommended retorque schedule is yearly or every 10K. 

If I were going to turbo an aluminum six I'd weld a piece of steel angle, 1"x1"x1/8" thick, notched for the cylinders, down each side of the bores near the top. That would give the bores a lot of support, similar to a main stud girdle. Hmmm... instead of welding you could run bolts between the bores and clamp the two pieces of angle (in which case I'd probably use channel) to the bores. Would work as good and may be better than welding. I'd also drill holes between or near the bores and thread them. Put a bolt and lock nut in the hole to brace against the side of the block in at least four places (two wach side). Now the engine should be ready for turboing, but I'd still keep it down to 7-10 psi. This is a long stroke torque engine, not a fast turner! 

Bottom end parts interchange as well as timing chain and gears. Pistons, I think, are different on the AL engine, but I'm not positive. Rods are the same AL and FE. Valve train is different as the AL uses a hydraulic system, necessary because of the expansion of AL. The forged crank and rods are up to the turbo task easy enough. I don't know how thick the cylinders are, but I'd bore out 0.040" over (might be the max) and find a 184 Nash L-head crank. The reduced stroke (1/4" less, same 3.125" bore) will cost some inches but rpms will go up. A drag racer back in the early sixties bracket raced a 54 or so Nash Rambler with a late 195.6 L-head block (water pump in front, so had to be 58+) and 184 crank. It was bored 0.080" over though (the early FE block would take up to 0.125" over) to make up for some of the loss in stroke. In this case the turbo would more than make up for the loss but the engine would turn faster. You could even get real crazy with rpms if you used the 172.!
 6 crank. 


On June 9, 2005 Jim Boone wrote:

> HMMM, what could an aluminum 195.6 be good for?  Is everything else the same, such as 4 big main bearings, piston size, etc, as far as interchangability with a cast iron 195.6?
> 
> Take an already light '64-5 American, put a turbo'd aluminum six in it, back it up with a Mustang V6 5 speed, put 3.31 or 3.54's out back.  That could be fun AND unique!  You should be able to put ~10-12 psi boost to it with no problems, maybe ~300 hp or so if set up right.
> 
> Jim Boone
> Mims, FL
> 
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