On June 7, 2005 Tom Jennings wrote: > So I do think the cam is non-stock. It idles funny; rough but not > misfiring. Never owned a car with a lumpy cam (since my > SC/Rambler but that was in 1974 or so). Smooths out around 1000 > rpm. On the way home, I pushed it faintly harder. Performance > above 65 mph surprised me; I got to 80 pretty damn quick, and it > showed no sign of letting off. With the 2.73 axle 70mph=2500rpm, > 80mph=2900rpm. One way to check is to put a vac gauge on it. IIRC a high lift and/or overlap cam will produce less vacuum at low rpms. If it kicks in around 2500 rpm sounds like you have an "RV" or "econo-power" type grind. Just a bit more lift and duration that gives more mid range power. My old 196 had something similar, and that's what I have now. Works about like yours -- idle is rough at 500 or so rpm but smooths out at 650+. I have a stick computer on an auto car though, that might be where my rough idle is coming from. I bet a Jeep 4.0L w/auto idles 600-650 rpm instead of 500-550... > > The springs came from ESPO. They ride fine; the car is as tight as > a brand new car, but ride height is too tall, even for me, and I > like tall cars. The rate seems correct (compression on chuckholes > and steps in the road) so I hope they collapse a bit. They should "settle" at least 1/2" over the next few months. > > I'm gonna get a rear sway bar, and make a panhard, "soon", but I > want to save my pennies and get rid of this carburetor. Chokes, > fast-idles, all that crap, I'm over it. EFI is the only way to go! Remember, you can go real cheap and use a GM 2.5L four setup. Has a 400 cfm or so throttle body. If you use the GM computer you need a system from a 84-85 car or up to 87 (I think) truck. Has to be one with a regular distributor. Then you really need a HEI distributor so you can gut the original four distro and put it in the HEI for spark changes as well. Since the faster turning four has about the same fuel requirements as the slower turning six it should work off the stock computer program. You can leave the distro unhooked (no HEI required) and it will work, will just keep the "check engine" light on. Any service that reprograms GM computer chips can fix that, and customize it to the engine. Or go high dollar and get a self programming type. The best for the bucks is www.sdsefi.com. Next to that would be the DIYEFI project, "Megasquirt". You have the capability of building that, so might be the best for you. I'd stick with the 1V throttle body but drill the manifold for at least two injectors with the Megasquirt. If the intake is a true log one near each side of the throttle body should provide a little better fuel distibution, maybe right between cylinders 2/3 and 4/5. Then time the two to fire with the correct cylinders. ============================================================= Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist