Re: Starting trouble help needed.

John

Check your ignition coil. It may be getting too weak to provide proper ignition. When you turn the switch to the crank position, a full 12-volts goes to the coil. When the key is released to the run position, the power goes through the resistance wire (same as a ballast resistor). The reduced current may be showing you the coil is weak by cutting out proper spark when the key is in the run position. I've had this happen before. I've also had the factory tach go bad in my Javelin and kill my spark. I do not think your application has a factory tach though.

Hope this helps . . .

Bill Dettman

'74 Matador X 401, '70 Javelin BBG 401

----Original Message Follows----
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Reply-To: mail-From-javelinman-hotmail.com@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Starting trouble help needed.
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 09:41:36 -0400

Sounds like classic vapor lock! Will it start now that it's sat for a while? If so, VL it is!! Replace the metal line from the fuel pump to the carb with a rubber line or insulate the metal line. If there aren't any sharp bends run a piece of loose fitting hose over the metal to insulate it. Getting a piece over the fittings might be an issue though.

If it won't start you have one of two problems: no juice to the ignition or no fuel. check for flow from the pump first. If you have that, disconnect the wire to the positive side of the coil and turn on the ignition switch. you should have power on the wire -- ~6V with switch in "run" position, 12V with switch in "start" position. If you don't have voltage in the run position or at least 6V, check the ballast resistor. Check for voltage going into (12V) and out of (should be ~6V) the resistor. If you have a resistance wire this gets more difficult. You can unravel the harness and find each end of the wire, but I'd get a ballast resistor (don't you have one in a parts car or stash?) and run a new wire from a switched source through the resistor and to the coil. You could run it straight from the battery, won't hurt a thing! That's the old fashioned way to hot-wire a car, run a "hot wire" from battery to coil, screwdriver across solenoid terminals -- perfect for an old car wi!
th no steering lock. If you have ~6V power at the coil with the switch in run position then the coil is bad. But since you say it wants to run as long as the starter is engaged, I'm betting on the ballast resistor/resistance wire. It could be the wire running from the switch to resistance, but if you have power in the car with the switch in the run position it shouldn't be the switch.

On May 17, 2005 John Rosa wrote:

> I was taking my Hornet for a ride the other day and had to
> tow it home because of a starting problem I haven't
> encountered before. Read on if you think you can help figure
> out the issue.
>
> The car started up fine when cold, with it's usual tendency
> to stall 'til a minute or two has passed. Toying with the
> pedal is enough to keep her running those first couple of
> minutes.
>
> I drove it for about 10 minutes when I stopped at a store to
> grab a drink. When I came out, the car cranked, but did not
> fire up. It did fire somewhat, but only as long as the key
> remained in the start position, meaning the starter was still
> engaging. But as soon as allowed to return to the 'run'
> position, the car stalled.
>
> I popped off the air cleaner lid, and closed the choke. Now it
> would only crank with no sign of firing.
>
> Propping the choke open again meant it would again fire as long
> as the starter was engaged.
>
> A bit of starter fluid spray was no help.
>
> After it was towed home, I swapped the fuel filter, plugs,
> points and condenser, but the issue remains unchanged.
>
> Any ideas where to go next?
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> .

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