Re: cracked exhaust manifold on 232

["Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

A: Higher stall converter? <G> I put the car in drive with the rear axle 
chained to something solid (V chained actually. IE: Hooked from axle at left 
leafspring and around the solid telephone pole and back to the RH 
axle/spring connection) with the Ebrake on and wheels chocked (don't want 
one of the monsters I built getting away from me! The one time I didn't 
chain one the throttle spring and motor mount broke, launching the car 
across the back forty and into the Serpetine river in BC. That would've made 
"America's dumbest videos" if we had a camera back when I was 12 and just 
learning about cars)
   Adjusting the idle mix, timing, but making sure first that the valves 
weren't carboned up or set too tight and compression was fairly even. 
Decarburizing is another thing to do to ensure even compression (water 
trickle) 90% of the cars I work on go smooth as glass after this, unless 
there is an underlying mechanical problem or carb trouble or they plain old 
have a lumpety cam.


From: "Jay" <jciampi@xxxxxxxx>
To: "AMC LIST" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: cracked exhaust manifold on 232
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 19:46:23 -0400

Boy, I changed my maniufold yesterday on my American and the darn thing
about fell apart when I unbolted it from the block. It had all kinds of
cracks, some hair-line and some quite wide and long. Car sounds a lot
quieter now but doesn;t idle any smoother.

When I set the idle in Park at a rather fast 700 rpm, when i put it in Drive
and the engine slows down, it almost gets loping and rough. I can't seem to
get a "compromise" setting that will be fairly smooth in Drive and still not
jump into gear when I take it out of Park and put it in Drive. Any ideas
what I might try with this situation?


Jay

Laek Placid, FL.