Re: Vibration dampeners for 66-67 cars?

[farna@xxxxxxx]

I researched the proper way to set the driveline up. Basically, you can be out of alignment with no problems AS LONG AS angles on both ends are the same. If the shaft is 3* downhill from the centerline of the trans then it needs to be 3* uphill from the centerline of the axle. Longitudinally is the same -- same angles on both ends are good. On live axle cars the angle at the axle changes since the entire axle moves up and down and twists with torque. Up and down the angles should change together, but twisting the rear (especially with leaf springs) doesn't change the front. So most manufacturers have the rear angle around 1* lower since the axle will twist when power is applied. Since I have a rear trans seal leak now I'm thinking the driveshaft might be out of balance. It was shortened slightly when the new end was put on to match it to the Jag rear axle.

On April 12, 2005 Tom Jennings wrote:

> On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 farna@xxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > I thought about that too. Only the 63-66 V-8 models used a CV
> > type joint. All others (including 56-62 V-8s) used a single joint
> > at the front. I thought driveshaft angle too, but nothing I do to
> > that helps.
> 
> Did you check driveline angle longitudinally? My 63 Classic was
> wacked hard once (probably 20 yrs ago) and I had four wheel
> alignment checked; it's parallelagrammed about 1" end to end.
> Aligner said "its better than most new cars!", it tracks perfectly
> and tire wear is perfect.
> 
> But I found the driveline out of alignment. It was easy to check,
> reasonably easy to fix.
> 
> I ran a string taut from the harmonic balancer to the center of
> the rear axle, and put little wedges such that the string wasn't
> resting on anything. I found that the rear of the
> transmission/front of driveshaft wasout of line with the other two
> points; I re-drilled the crossmember to push the rear trans mount
> over into line.
> 
> Since you installed the new rear, it might be worth checking.
> 
> Also, driveline angles are pretty tight, tolerances within a
> degree might be required, and you may have to determine what's
> proper since you have a non-stock rear. I wouldn't copy the
> torquetube angles, since it's such a wacky system, but instead
> copy a same-size later open-driveline car. Pinion angles are
> important.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


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