Re: Cranking Up The Old 343 Engine

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Here's what I'd do:

- Pull the spark plugs and make sure the engine turns by hand (or with a 
wrench). Don't turn it far since the cylinders will be pretty dry.
- If it turns, put a few ounces of engine oil in the cylinders and change 
the engine oil and filter if you haven't already. When you put the new 
filter on, put as much oil as you can get in it without spilling to reduce 
the time it takes for they system to prime.
- Turn the engine over by hand. Make two full revolutions to ensure that 
it's free.
- If it isn't free, Marvel Mystery Oil may free it up.
- Drain the cooling system and fill it with fresh coolant. If the guts of 
the radiator are all crusty, I'd just fill it with water for now and plan 
on having the radiator boiled out once you determine the engines condition.
- Check the condition of the battery cables and that the battery is fully 
charged.
- Disconnect the fuel hose that goes between the fuel pump and fuel line. 
Make sure to plug the end of the fuel line from the tank so you don't have 
a fuel spill. Fuel systems are somewhat self-siphoning (especially with a 
bunch of gas in them) and you could have a fuel spill.
- If you have an oil pump priming tool, use that to prime the system. 
You'll know it's primed when oil comes out at the rocker arms. If not, 
crank the engine with the starter until oil pressure is indicated (oil 
light goes off or the gauge shows pressure). Don't crank for more than 30 
seconds at a time and let the starter cool for a few minutes after every 30 
seconds of cranking.
- Once oil pressure is built up, put in new plugs, service the points, and 
connect the fuel pump to a gas can with a small amount of fuel in it.
- Pour a few ounces of fuel into the carburetor via the vent tube and work 
the throttle several times until fuel squirts out of the accelerator pump 
jets in the carburetor throat.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly and plug any vacuum hoses. This keeps you 
from having a fire in the air cleaner if the car backfires.

At this point, the car should start easily if there is no internal damage 
to the engine. It will smoke for a few moments until the engine oil burns 
out of the cylinders. Stop the engine and install the air cleaner with a 
fresh air filter.

Before you try and drive it, STOP! You still have a bunch of work to do!

You absolutely must check the brakes (make sure the engine is running if 
you have power brakes). How does the pedal feel under normal pressure? Is 
it firm? Does it sink slowly to the floor? Is it mushier than a mud pit in 
the Amazon during the rainy season? Once you've pushed the pedal down a few 
times (and shut the engine off) take a looks at the brakes. Are the baking 
plates nice and dry or are they wet with brake fluid? Wet brake parts mean 
that wheel cylinders and/or calipers need rebuilt. If things look good so 
far, get back in the car and step down very hard on the brake pedal several 
times and re-check the brakes for leaks. Once you're okay with the 
hydraulic side, take a look at the mechanical side of the brakes. You want 
to make sure that the springs are intact and that everything moves like 
it's supposed to (you'll need a helper to work the brakes while you check 
each wheel).

Once you're sure the brakes are good, you should change all remaining 
fluids and then you should be ready to take it for a drive.

After you get it running, it would be a very good idea to rebuild the 
carburetor and have the gas tank cleaned out. Radiator shops can usually 
clean gas tanks. Expect to pay somewhere around $100 to $150 to have it 
cleaned and sealed. You should also test the fuel level sender at this time 
and replace the fuel strainer and o-ring that goes between the sender and 
the tank. If you haven't had the radiator cleaned out yet, you should take 
it at the same time and have it cleaned and leak tested. You should also 
install a new stock (195 degree) thermostat while you have the radiator out.

You should also replace all of the hoses (don't forget the fuel hoses back 
by the gas tank) and belts to make sure it's ready to drive.

Matt

At 08:58 PM 4/7/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> You guys out there are the experts.  I want to try to crank up my '67 
> Rebel SST 343 this weekend.  The previous owner says the car has not been 
> started in over 3 years.  Some people say to remove the plugs and squirt 
> some oil in the cylinders before cranking.  Would like your 
> suggestions.  Obviously, I will run my gas line from a clean gas container 
> to bypass the junk that is in the gas tank.  What about the 
> carburetor?  Should I do anything to prep it before firing it up?  I also 
> suspect the fuel pump may not work and will test that.  Appreciate any 
> guidance you can give me.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Parente - email: grparen@xxxxxxxxxxx

mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
===============================================================
According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by
UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.