Re: Cranks

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Unless the car is showing signs of rust I wouldn't strip out a good interior. If it's lasted this long without rust it will likely last as long again -- just keep it washed and otherwise taken care of. 

A 75K engine should still be good. A quart of Marvel divided amongst the cylinders wouldn't hurt a thing. Let it sit a day or at least over night though. Then drain the oil BEFORE attempting to start it. Any condensation or acids built up in the oil from sitting should come out. Put on a new filter and don't forget to put oil in, or the drain plug. There's nothing like stopping in the middle of an oil change and coming back to put oil in, with drain plug on the ground under the car. If on dirt/grass or the uphill side of the drive there's no telling how much oil you'll "put in" before you notice. I only put about a quart and a half "in" on the downhill side of my concrete drive. 

Anyway, pull the distributor next. Get a piece of 3/8" steel rod about 18" long and grind one end similar to the shape of the end of the distributor. Chuck it in your drill and spin it up until the drill bogs. Put the distributor back in. Oh yes, be careful to note where the rotor was pointing and how the body was oriented before pulling it out -- you want it to go back in the same way! Pour about 1/2 cup of gasoline down the carb throat and then attempt to start. Should start up and smoke for 5-15 minutes (the Marvel burning out). If it doesn't start right away pour some more gas down the carb. If you have to do that more than three times suspect a clogged fuel filter, pickup in the tank, or bad fuel pump. If by chance it backfires through the carb and shoots flame up, STAY ON THE STARTER (and off the gas pedal)! That will suck the flames back down in the engine. It shouldn't do this, but the only way you'll start a carb fire is NOT to stay on the starter, or if you have a !
 fuel leak around the carb. 

The only thing you should have to consider doing to the engine is getting the valve stem seals replaced, and maybe the valve cover gaskets. I'd retorque all bolts and check for tightness. You may have a seal or two start leaking after driving a while, but nothing major. Valve stem seals can be changed without pulling the heads. They usually harden with age and heat/cool cycles. When an engine sits for a long time they harden more, and shortly after running again they will break up and let oil get sucked down the valve stem. If the engine smokes a bit on startup after sitting (and the Marvel has been burned out) then clear up after 2-5 minutes the valve stem seals are bad. Oil pools on the back of the valves after shutdown then burns off when you start. It's probably pulling a little oil around the valve stem all the time if this happens, just not enough to smoke.


On February 22, 2005 Ken Siroonian wrote:

> It went past me as well. Guess I read too fast, due to being too busy with work and projects and valentines day stuff. Anway...
> So,when and if the weather inmproves I need to start the restoration and tear down of my dads 74 ambo, 360 2bbl sedan. I think I will strip out the interior which is pretty good and then the the powertrain and get it to this rust restoration place. Let me know what is the best and proper procedure for doing this type of restoration. I have never done this type of resto before. I have a good used hood and new front fenders. When last started 6 years ago the engine was fine. SHould I just try to bring it back to life slowly out of the car, or rebuild it. I have never done that. it has about 75K on it. How much of a rebuild would be needed. I guess acording to the previous notes on cranks, that unless you are going racing, or daily hard use, there is is no need to chrome the crank, when simply polishing it will do for occasional use. I guess in that case, if your not going heart poounding racing then its no big thing. Should all the pistons and rings be cleaned or changed? or!
  j!
>  ust lubed well by putting a lot of marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let them sit and soak for a while and then turn the engine over by hand, slowly getting hte pistons and rings to move and loosen up.the car has been sitting outside covered. Any ideas or thoughts, thanks. Its still snowing,,, ugh. SPRING PLEASE SOON!!!!
> Regards.
> 
> 
> On February 21, 2005 mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > Date sent:      	Mon, 21 Feb 2005 13:29:49 -0800
> > From:           	"mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <List@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject:        	mail Digest for 21 Feb 2005 in hour 13:00
> > To:             	"hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx" <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Send reply to:  	mail-From-<# print(JADDR); #>@amc-list.com
> >
> > > >Randy, WE'VE BEEN HAD!!!!
> > > >I say WE, because I didn't see anything wrong with the crank
> > stor
> > either. I didn't get suspicious until Tom Jennings caught on and
> > made his
> > post, then when I saw your post I was certain we'd been had, I had
> > to go
> > back and read it carefully with mind in the gutter. Everything fit so
> > perfectly that the post looks innocent at first. But he was talking
> > about
> > HIS CRANK, not his engine's CRANKSHAFT!! > > > >Okay I
> > think you got it,
> > but just in case, crank = dick, penis, whatever you want to call it.
> > NOW
> > go back and read it again. Hilarious! Especially since it went right
> > through us without a notice at first!! > >Frank Swygert
> >
> >
> > ==========================
> >
> >
> > He had his Crank Hard Chromed tho -
> >
> >
> >              Brien.
> >          NEW YORK
> >    eagle registry #501
> > eagle kammback registry
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 2/18/2005
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > .
> 
> 
> =============================================================
> Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist