This is true--that's the "Rambler mentality" way of doing it. But, that doesn't fix the problem, it just postpones the inevitable. If the bushings are worn away, the rotation of the hinge pin will continue to wallow out the holes in the hinge until they're to the point of needing to be welded up and redrilled to properly repair them. I noticed recently on a 73 Hornet I'm doing some work on that it had *nylon* door hinge bushings instead of decent copper bushings. If these cars had nylon door bushings, it's no wonder they all sag and wear out in no time.... Jeff Reeves Auburn GA 79 Spirit GT 72 Javelin SST 69 Ambassador DPL (with rebuilt door hinges) Message-ID: <1104290465.41d222a145e32@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 20:21:05 -0700 From: Ken Ames <amesk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Door Hinge - how to? ... and sometimes you can get away with adjusting the top hinge forward and the bottom hinge rearward on the doorpost. Ken Ames Quoting "" <amcnut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: > Take the door off the hinges, then with a hammer and punch drive the hinge > pins up out of the hinge itself. Once you get the hinges apart you can better > tell how worn the hinge is. If it isn't too bad, you can fix it easily. You > can go to any auto parts store that has a "Help!" rack and pick up a > pin-and-bushing kit that's similar in size to what was originally used on the > car. If the bushing is a bit large for the hole, you can drill/ream the hole > until the bushing is a snug fit, then line up the two halves of the hinge and > gently tap the pin in until it's seated fully. This should fix your problem! > Or, alternately, if your hinges aren't wallowed out too bad, you can order > stock-size bushings from one of the AMC vendors and simply stick them in and > go. It's really a simple fix for a common problem. > > Jeff Reeves