Re: engine vibration 232 engine
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Re: engine vibration 232 engine



Thanks Joe, but I think I can use this version that was on the website. I copied it and put in my "Rambler" file.

Jay
----- Original Message ----- From: "JOE FULTON" <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine



Jay,

What you are looking for is here, I think:

http://www.amcyclopedia.org/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=3

I have the paper version of this mod which I can fax
to you also if you give me a fax number.

I have performed this mod on a 199 six but the motor
has not been started since the rebuild, so I don't
know how it will work.  I also put in a high volume
oil pump.

Regards,
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA

--- Jay <jciampi@xxxxxxxx> wrote:

Matt, do tyou have any more service bulletins for
the Americans fropm
1966-69?  I am looking for the one to correct the
oiling problem for the
rocker shafts on the early 232 engines.

Jay in FL>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine



> Jay, > > You can see the service bulletin here: >

http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/loose_intake.shtml.
It's not
> an exact copy of it, but what I got my hands on
wasn't either. I'd love to
> have a copy of the original but what I put on my
site should cover it. One
> other thing that I just remembered -- the exhaust
donut gasket in the
> FelPro gasket set was the wrong size for my
manifolds. I think it was too
> small. The donut gasket I ended up with was also
made by FelPro and sold
> as fitting the same applications but worked okay.
I don't know if that was
> just a fluke or if it's still even a problem since
the last gasket set I
> bought was about 5 years ago.
>
> There's also another one for 1964-6 sixes about
carbon build up in the
> intake manifold from the heat riser valve not
working properly causing
> stumbling and hesitation. This fix for that is to
remove the manifolds,
> burn the carbon off with a torch, install a new
heat riser valve, and put
> everything back together. I doubt you'll be able
to find a new heat riser
> valve but if it isn't working, you can just cut it
out and put in a couple
> of pipe plugs. I've driven mine in about 10 degree
weather since having
> mine cut out and driveability was okay.
>
> Matt
>
> At 03:40 PM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>I already replaced the U-Joints when I  replaced
the tranny mount. I
>>already thought about the rear wheel brgs, but
havenj't done anything with
>>them yet. I have brand new tires (last week) and
it had the vibration
>>before I had the tires changed.  I guess the next
thing to do is remove
>>the manifolds, put on a new gasket and i have a
new exhaust manifold to
>>replace the old one(its getting noisy,thin walls,
I think).
>>Have you a copy of the service bulletin you could
email me a copy of?
>>
>>Jay
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas"
<mhaas@xxxxxxx>
>>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 2:41 PM
>>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
>>
>>
>>>Jay,
>>>
>>>I just found out that there was a service
bulletin issued in 1969 about
>>>rough idle and/or surging on six cylinders. The
fix was new intake
>>>manifold gaskets and a specific intake torque
sequence. The bad part
>>>about this fix is that you need to separate the
intake and exhaust
>>>manifolds and there's a good chance that one of
those studs or bolts will
>>>break.
>>>
>>>The torque sequence starts with the top left bolt
behind the carburetor
>>>and works clockwise outward. After that, it calls
for tightening the nuts
>>>on the intake to exhaust manifold studs (left
first, then right) between
>>>the carburetor and motor and then the outer
manifold bolts (the ones that
>>>are on the bottom) in the same order.
>>>
>>>The vibration could be a bunch of things. Once
you fix the wheel
>>>bearings, try over-inflating the tires (add bout
10 psi) and see if it
>>>changes or goes away. You could also have any of
the following out of
>>>balance or damaged: wheels and tires, drums,
driveshaft. Also, worn out
>>>u-joints or rear wheel bearings can cause
vibration.
>>>
>>>Matt
>>>
>>>At 11:35 AM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>I finally got around to tightening the intake
and exhaust manifolds to
>>>>25 ft/lbs and it did help the vibration problem
but not entirely.  I
>>>>also have a synchronous vibration while driving
at about 35 mph. If I
>>>>let up on the gas it diminishes slightly . There
is a  "flex" fan on the
>>>>engine, seems to be in good condition and the
water pump has no play in
>>>>the shaft. I would like to find a 5 blade OEM
fan as i don't like flex
>>>>fans much. The problem with that is it is a
small fan because of hose
>>>>clearance problems. You have an American, so you
know what I mean. The
>>>>35 mph bibration may be a wheel bearing going
bad. When I got the car
>>>>back in April, I was checking things over and
found the LF wheel was NOT
>>>>tightened down properly at the wheel shaft nut.
I tightened the nut
>>>>about a 1/4 turn until I had no play in the
wheel when held at the top
>>>>and bottom.  I have no idea how many miles the
bearing was loose and
>>>>driven that way. I am going to replace the
bearings on the front wheels
>>>>just to be safe.    BTW, I had a simliar  35 mph
vibration on my 66 AMBO
>>>>and I never did find out what caused it. the
only thing i didn' t
>>>>replace on it was the engine mounts. I have
replaced the tranny mount on
>>>>the American.
>>>>
>>>>Jay
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas"
<mhaas@xxxxxxx>
>>>>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 8:54 PM
>>>>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Jay,
>>>>>
>>>>>Check the intake manifold bolts. My American
did that and tightening
>>>>>the bolts solved the problem.
>>>>>
>>>>>Matt
>>>>>
>>>>>At 06:12 PM 10/31/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>>>Hey Guys, i have a 66 American with the
232/2bbl engine. I have set
>>>>>>the timing, set the idle speed at 700 rpm in
neutral/ 550 in drive.
>>>>>>The engine has new plugs and points, doesn't
appear to have any vacuum
>>>>>>leaks.  At the 550 rpm speed the engine has a
rapid vibration which is
>>>>>>quite annoying. The vibration mostly stops
when i speed the engine up
>>>>>>above the idle.  I have replaced the tranny
mount which was dissolved
>>>>>>from tranny fluid getting on it before i got
the car. Could the engine
>>>>>>mounts be so old and stiff that they won't
absorb even the slightest
>>>>>>vibration and transmit it to the frame? I had
a 65 American with a
>>>>>>232/2bbl when it was new in 65 and i don;t
remember it being anything
>>>>>>but smooth idling. The engine runs smoothly as
far a vacuum gauge
>>>>>>shows, no fluctuations due to worn valves or
rings. The engine doesn't
>>>>>>smoke and has 120k miles on the odometer.
Someone did put the oil kit
>>>>>>from the side of the block up into the valve
cover as suggested in a
>>>>>>service bulletin. I know that has nothing to
do with the idle. Just
>>>>>>mentioning it as I hadn't seen this done to
many 232 engines.  I

=== message truncated ===











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