Jay,
What you are looking for is here, I think:
http://www.amcyclopedia.org/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=3
I have the paper version of this mod which I can fax to you also if you give me a fax number.
I have performed this mod on a 199 six but the motor has not been started since the rebuild, so I don't know how it will work. I also put in a high volume oil pump.
Regards, Joe Fulton Salinas, CA
--- Jay <jciampi@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/loose_intake.shtml.Matt, do tyou have any more service bulletins for the Americans fropm 1966-69? I am looking for the one to correct the oiling problem for the rocker shafts on the early 232 engines.
Jay in FL>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> Jay, > > You can see the service bulletin here: >
=== message truncated ===It's not > an exact copy of it, but what I got my hands on wasn't either. I'd love to > have a copy of the original but what I put on my site should cover it. One > other thing that I just remembered -- the exhaust donut gasket in the > FelPro gasket set was the wrong size for my manifolds. I think it was too > small. The donut gasket I ended up with was also made by FelPro and sold > as fitting the same applications but worked okay. I don't know if that was > just a fluke or if it's still even a problem since the last gasket set I > bought was about 5 years ago. > > There's also another one for 1964-6 sixes about carbon build up in the > intake manifold from the heat riser valve not working properly causing > stumbling and hesitation. This fix for that is to remove the manifolds, > burn the carbon off with a torch, install a new heat riser valve, and put > everything back together. I doubt you'll be able to find a new heat riser > valve but if it isn't working, you can just cut it out and put in a couple > of pipe plugs. I've driven mine in about 10 degree weather since having > mine cut out and driveability was okay. > > Matt > > At 03:40 PM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote: >>I already replaced the U-Joints when I replaced the tranny mount. I >>already thought about the rear wheel brgs, but havenj't done anything with >>them yet. I have brand new tires (last week) and it had the vibration >>before I had the tires changed. I guess the next thing to do is remove >>the manifolds, put on a new gasket and i have a new exhaust manifold to >>replace the old one(its getting noisy,thin walls, I think). >>Have you a copy of the service bulletin you could email me a copy of? >> >>Jay >>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx> >>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >>Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 2:41 PM >>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine >> >> >>>Jay, >>> >>>I just found out that there was a service bulletin issued in 1969 about >>>rough idle and/or surging on six cylinders. The fix was new intake >>>manifold gaskets and a specific intake torque sequence. The bad part >>>about this fix is that you need to separate the intake and exhaust >>>manifolds and there's a good chance that one of those studs or bolts will >>>break. >>> >>>The torque sequence starts with the top left bolt behind the carburetor >>>and works clockwise outward. After that, it calls for tightening the nuts >>>on the intake to exhaust manifold studs (left first, then right) between >>>the carburetor and motor and then the outer manifold bolts (the ones that >>>are on the bottom) in the same order. >>> >>>The vibration could be a bunch of things. Once you fix the wheel >>>bearings, try over-inflating the tires (add bout 10 psi) and see if it >>>changes or goes away. You could also have any of the following out of >>>balance or damaged: wheels and tires, drums, driveshaft. Also, worn out >>>u-joints or rear wheel bearings can cause vibration. >>> >>>Matt >>> >>>At 11:35 AM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote: >>>>I finally got around to tightening the intake and exhaust manifolds to >>>>25 ft/lbs and it did help the vibration problem but not entirely. I >>>>also have a synchronous vibration while driving at about 35 mph. If I >>>>let up on the gas it diminishes slightly . There is a "flex" fan on the >>>>engine, seems to be in good condition and the water pump has no play in >>>>the shaft. I would like to find a 5 blade OEM fan as i don't like flex >>>>fans much. The problem with that is it is a small fan because of hose >>>>clearance problems. You have an American, so you know what I mean. The >>>>35 mph bibration may be a wheel bearing going bad. When I got the car >>>>back in April, I was checking things over and found the LF wheel was NOT >>>>tightened down properly at the wheel shaft nut. I tightened the nut >>>>about a 1/4 turn until I had no play in the wheel when held at the top >>>>and bottom. I have no idea how many miles the bearing was loose and >>>>driven that way. I am going to replace the bearings on the front wheels >>>>just to be safe. BTW, I had a simliar 35 mph vibration on my 66 AMBO >>>>and I never did find out what caused it. the only thing i didn' t >>>>replace on it was the engine mounts. I have replaced the tranny mount on >>>>the American. >>>> >>>>Jay >>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx> >>>>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >>>>Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 8:54 PM >>>>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine >>>> >>>> >>>>>Jay, >>>>> >>>>>Check the intake manifold bolts. My American did that and tightening >>>>>the bolts solved the problem. >>>>> >>>>>Matt >>>>> >>>>>At 06:12 PM 10/31/2004 -0500, you wrote: >>>>>>Hey Guys, i have a 66 American with the 232/2bbl engine. I have set >>>>>>the timing, set the idle speed at 700 rpm in neutral/ 550 in drive. >>>>>>The engine has new plugs and points, doesn't appear to have any vacuum >>>>>>leaks. At the 550 rpm speed the engine has a rapid vibration which is >>>>>>quite annoying. The vibration mostly stops when i speed the engine up >>>>>>above the idle. I have replaced the tranny mount which was dissolved >>>>>>from tranny fluid getting on it before i got the car. Could the engine >>>>>>mounts be so old and stiff that they won't absorb even the slightest >>>>>>vibration and transmit it to the frame? I had a 65 American with a >>>>>>232/2bbl when it was new in 65 and i don;t remember it being anything >>>>>>but smooth idling. The engine runs smoothly as far a vacuum gauge >>>>>>shows, no fluctuations due to worn valves or rings. The engine doesn't >>>>>>smoke and has 120k miles on the odometer. Someone did put the oil kit >>>>>>from the side of the block up into the valve cover as suggested in a >>>>>>service bulletin. I know that has nothing to do with the idle. Just >>>>>>mentioning it as I hadn't seen this done to many 232 engines. I