Re: engine vibration 232 engine

["Jay" <jciampi@xxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the inof on the oil problem too.  BTW, I finally got rid of my 
annoying  vibration by tightening the manifolds as you suggested, but  I 
also replaced bith froin engine mounts (they were old and brittle) as well 
as the tranny insulator. that pretty much took care of 97% of the vibration. 
They rest is just because it is a straight six from the 60s.

Jay
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine


> Jay,
>
> There's another article on my site about that. Take a look at 
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/boltmod.shtml. Just like the 
> loose intake one, this isn't a word for word copy but it does describe the 
> bolt modification. I do want to point out that the real problem was lack 
> of regular oil changes. The passage is plenty big enough to oil the valve 
> train but since it's small and not exactly smooth, it's prone to sludging 
> up. Also, it's important that the bolt is carefully machined. If you turn 
> it down too far, it will not be strong enough and if you don't cut a new 
> radius into the shank after you're done, the bolt could break.
>
> I was originally going to have the machine shop that did the work on my 
> 232 do this (I don't think they were going to charge me anything extra but 
> then again, I was already dropping a good chunk of change there) but I 
> forgot to drop the bulletin off so my dad ended up doing it on a lathe 
> where he works. I think it only took about 15 minutes to do the work.
>
> Matt
>
> At 06:50 PM 12/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > Matt, do tyou have any more service bulletins for the Americans fropm 
> > 1966-69?  I am looking for the one to correct the oiling problem for the 
> > rocker shafts on the early 232 engines.
> >
> > Jay in FL>
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> > To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:18 PM
> > Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> >
> >
> > > Jay,
> > >
> > > You can see the service bulletin here: 
> > > http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/loose_intake.shtml. It's not 
> > > an exact copy of it, but what I got my hands on wasn't either. I'd love 
> > > to have a copy of the original but what I put on my site should cover it. 
> > > One other thing that I just remembered -- the exhaust donut gasket in the 
> > > FelPro gasket set was the wrong size for my manifolds. I think it was too 
> > > small. The donut gasket I ended up with was also made by FelPro and sold 
> > > as fitting the same applications but worked okay. I don't know if that 
> > > was just a fluke or if it's still even a problem since the last gasket 
> > > set I bought was about 5 years ago.
> > >
> > > There's also another one for 1964-6 sixes about carbon build up in the 
> > > intake manifold from the heat riser valve not working properly causing 
> > > stumbling and hesitation. This fix for that is to remove the manifolds, 
> > > burn the carbon off with a torch, install a new heat riser valve, and put 
> > > everything back together. I doubt you'll be able to find a new heat riser 
> > > valve but if it isn't working, you can just cut it out and put in a 
> > > couple of pipe plugs. I've driven mine in about 10 degree weather since 
> > > having mine cut out and driveability was okay.
> > >
> > > Matt
> > >
> > > At 03:40 PM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > > > I already replaced the U-Joints when I  replaced the tranny mount. I 
> > > > already thought about the rear wheel brgs, but havenj't done anything 
> > > > with them yet. I have brand new tires (last week) and it had the 
> > > > vibration before I had the tires changed.  I guess the next thing to do 
> > > > is remove the manifolds, put on a new gasket and i have a new exhaust 
> > > > manifold to replace the old one(its getting noisy,thin walls, I think).
> > > > Have you a copy of the service bulletin you could email me a copy of?
> > > >
> > > > Jay
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> > > > To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 2:41 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Jay,
> > > > >
> > > > > I just found out that there was a service bulletin issued in 1969 about 
> > > > > rough idle and/or surging on six cylinders. The fix was new intake 
> > > > > manifold gaskets and a specific intake torque sequence. The bad part 
> > > > > about this fix is that you need to separate the intake and exhaust 
> > > > > manifolds and there's a good chance that one of those studs or bolts 
> > > > > will break.
> > > > >
> > > > > The torque sequence starts with the top left bolt behind the carburetor 
> > > > > and works clockwise outward. After that, it calls for tightening the 
> > > > > nuts on the intake to exhaust manifold studs (left first, then right) 
> > > > > between the carburetor and motor and then the outer manifold bolts (the 
> > > > > ones that are on the bottom) in the same order.
> > > > >
> > > > > The vibration could be a bunch of things. Once you fix the wheel 
> > > > > bearings, try over-inflating the tires (add bout 10 psi) and see if it 
> > > > > changes or goes away. You could also have any of the following out of 
> > > > > balance or damaged: wheels and tires, drums, driveshaft. Also, worn out 
> > > > > u-joints or rear wheel bearings can cause vibration.
> > > > >
> > > > > Matt
> <snip>
>
>
> mhaas@xxxxxxx
> Cincinnati, OH
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
> 1966 Rambler Rebel
> 1968 Rambler American sedan
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