A: If the "factory" fix hasn't been done (ie: Chopping the dist connector off and soldering the wires together) then I would try that first. The signal is so weak on that style of ignition system that the slightest corrosion at the plug by the dist it would drop to zero and shut off. Often just unplugging and replugging the connector would make it start again. Instead of fixing the OEM system, unless it's a "show" car, I would take this opportunity to upgrade to a Chev 250 or 292 HEI dist (requires a gear swap to work) You can keep the OEM coil if you want (get the cap with external coil), but the horseshoe connector on them is crapola too. Heck, even a points dist is cheap for AMC 6 cyls. Get them while you can because the rebuilders are rapidly depleting their sources and due to low sales, they will be no longer rebuilding them soon. (Mine cost me $40 with discount for my 304) From: Roger Blake <rogblake@xxxxxxxxx> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Distributor pickups dying in '75 Hornet Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.61.0412181424250.2996@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> I recently had the engine (258) on a '75 Hornet stop dead while it was warming up in the driveway. Diagnostics from the factory shop manual pointed at the distributor pickup being bad. Although I know these Prestolite ignition systems are marginal and there are upgrade possibilities, due to having to work on this car outside in cold weather I wanted the quickest, easiest fix. Advance Auto Parts sells a rebuilt replacement distribuor from A1 Cardone for a little over $50, so I ordered one and installed it this afternoon. The engine fired right up and ran great for about 60 seconds -- then it died. Diagnostics showed the same problem: dead pickup in the distributor. Anyone know if these ignition systems have a failure mode that can fry this thing? (Problem in the control box or the coil?) Obviously I may just have had the bad luck to get get a defective part, but it seems a little suspicious that the new unit failed so quickly. -- Roger Blake rogblake@xxxxxxxxx