Re: Mooing-Spewing- 65Rambler wont' start

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Brian,

The setting you use on your volt meter depends upon the meter. In my case, 
I have an auto ranging meter so I just turn it on DC and hook it up as 
needed. If you have to pick a volt range, you don't need to be able to read 
more than 14.5 volts DC.

For the continuity test, most digital meters will beep when you have 
continuity but it may just show something on the screen. The manual that 
came with the meter should describe it. If you have an analog meter, the 
needle will typically go to the high end of the scale (check your manual). 
What you have described below for hooking it up is correct but since the 
key was turned off, you don't need to bother with this test.

For you last question, it would probably help to understand how an ignition 
coil actually produces a spark (take a look at 
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm). Basically, the way an 
ignition coil works is that you build up a magnetic field in the primary 
windings and then you cause the magnetic field to collapse (either by the 
points opening or by an electronic device) which induces a strong current 
in the secondary windings which results in a spark being produced. If you 
provide power to the + side of the coil and ground the - side, you create 
the magnetic field. When you remove the ground wire (when points open, all 
they do is break the path to ground), you cause the field to collapse in 
the primary windings and induce current in the secondary windings which 
gives you your spark. So for this test, you'd turn the ignition on, connect 
a wire to a known good ground and then touch it to the - terminal on the 
coil. When you pull this wire away from the - terminal, it will cause a 
spark. Since you didn't have the ignition turned on, you don't need to do 
this test.

Matt

At 09:58 PM 11/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Matt,
>
> Thanks for the help. Yep, I got the service manual and have been using it.
>
> The volt meter is my crutch. I can never seem to understand it.  But if I 
> can use a test light, i guess thats pretty 'dummy proof'.
>
> I didn't have the key turned to "ON" when I did the "engine bay remote 
> start". I hadn't thought that i would need to.. go figure.  Will try again 
> tomorrow.
>
> For the negative battery/distributor body test.. do I just hold the lead 
> to the body of the distributor and the other lead to the neg battery 
> cable.. what should I get on the volt meter?  And what setting should the 
> volt meter be on? (as I said, im a dummy to volt meters)
>
> > To do that, disconnect the black wire from the Ignitor and connect a test 
> > wire to a known good ground. Turn the ignition on, hold the coil wire a 
> > short distance from a know good ground (a spark plug works well for 
> > this), and then momentarily touch your ground wire to the - coil terminal 
> > and pull it away. You should see a spark. If you do, chances are the 
> > Ignitor is dead -- try switching back to your points setup. If you don't 
> > see a spark, the coil is probably bad.
>
>
> Im not sure about this?  Im disconnecting the black wire from the coil 
> (that goes to the distributor/Petronix)?  The test wire is then connected 
> to....where?

mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1966 Rambler Rebel
1968 Rambler American sedan
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