Re: [AMC-list] Tom - Weber 32/36 DGEV Jeep Kit for 196OHV

[tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

The carb and adapter is just a bolt-on.  The PCV sucks from the valve
"adjustment" covers on the side. The PCV is mounted onto an elbow on
the intake trough; i'm sure the pics on my website show it. I ditched
the original steel like for rubber all the way.

The PC valve itself limits air flow; it doesn't make sense to try to
limit air flow via the "intake" side. The oil filler cap is stuffed
with steel wool, need to clean that out (I hot-tanked mine), overnight
soak in a coffee can of mineral spirits should do. Plus there's vents
in the valve cover, minor ones, on the ends.

PCV looks like an air leak, you want it large enough to clean the
crankcase but small enough you can still make it idle. I didn't record
the part number I installed. It's a slow-turning engine, so idle isn't
many CFMs, so a small 4-cyl valve would be a good start. They're cheap
enough that experimentation is inexpensive.

(My car came with one installed, but it was far too large. IT threaded
in, and was hard to find. I put a hose nipple in the manifold on an
elbow and used a hose-to-hose type valve that was easy to find.)


I strongly disagree on the throttle linkage, not only will a cable
type be far, far more work, it won't look or feel right in that car.
The only thing the stock one needs is to be raised up by the adapter
height, a very small change you could make with a hacksaw and hand
drill and some light steel strip stock. Plus the pushrod has to
lengthen the same amount, bend up a 10-32 threaded rod from a metals
or hobby store or a good hardware store.

http://wps.com/AMC/195.6OHV/Induction/

Damn, I remembered wrong on the rotation. It's OPPOSITE. (That's why I
write things down :-) the solution was mechanically easy, see the pics
and text. It did require welding but could be done otherwise.




On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 12:39, Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> I didn't realize the carb came form Tom until a later message, so you have
> the guy with the know how to hook it up!
>
> The grommet in the road tube hole will likely work, should be plenty of room
> to stick the PCV valve straight out the side in a 64+ American. The 63
> American OHV ran the PCV from the fame location but with a smaller hole
> (1/2" or 3/8" nipple, forget which). From there a metal line (with rubber
> coupler to the nipple in the side cover) ran up around the front of the
> engine. The PCV valve was on the left side along the head. There was a short
> hose from the valve to a 90 fitting screwed into the head in the center.
> Your head should have a plug there -- two plugs if it doesn't have power
> brakes (one for PCV, the other for PB booster). The 2V models all ran that
> way, only the 1V models had the hose to the breather.
>
> You might want to get a gas pedal and cable from a Jeep or other cable
> controlled car. Would be easy to make that fit. You just need a square hole
> in the firewall for the cable to snap into. I drill a round hole smaller
> that fits inside the square then use tin snips or a square file to square
> the corners. The pedal screws to the firewall -- self drilling screws work
> great. I have a Jeep pedal in my Rambler, but then I have the Jeep EFI
> system, which made it easy. You'll have to fab an anchor for the cable on
> the engine somewhere.
>
> You don't want a breather in the PCV line. The breather cap on the oil dip
> stick is usually sufficient (just clean it with solvent every few years). In
> your case it may not be. The 1V PCV system used a different dip stick cap.
> The TSM says air flow was controlled by a metered hole in the breather cap,
> so it only allowed so much air into the engine. That's why it just used a
> hose and no PCV valve.
>
>
> -------------------
> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 09:23:59 -0400
> From: Bruce Griffis<bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> Thanks for the info. My thoughts at this point are to take off the
> intake plate and wandr over to the machine shop with it and the
> adapter for the Weber. I'm sure Tommy Goza will get it set.
>
> I checked the inliners forum and found where folks installed a PCV
> valve in old Chevy 235's with road tubes. I'm planning on doing
> similar. The trick was to use a grommet that fits into the road tube.
> Then an inline PCV valve that fits in the grommet. Then run a hose
> over to the intake port for the feed to the windshield wipers and use
> a t-fitting. On my 1965 196OHV there are two places cut and threaded
> on the intake. The bottom is for vacuum for the wipers. The top is
> closed off. I'll remove the fitting that closes the top one off and
> install a fitting for the hose to attach.
>
> I'm trying to figure out if I should try and do an inline
> breather/filter between the road tube and the intake. I don't want to
> gum up my valves again. I know folks had to solve that issue 45-46
> years ago, so I should be able to figure it out.
>
> Anyway - machine shop will figure out mating the adapter. I'll figure
> out how to route the fumes from the road tube - not going to just let
> 'em vent on the road or in the air. The folks here gave me good
> pointers on a feed for the electric choke. I need to go back to Tom's
> site when I have the carb so I can visualize the linkage.
>
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://www.amc-mag.com
> (free download available!)
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-list mailing list
> AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com
>
_______________________________________________
AMC-list mailing list
AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com