Re: [AMC-list] Electric wipers for 63 Ambassador

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Dave, no way to use that motor on a pre 63 big car/pre 64 American. The early wipers swing away/to each other, not in unison like later models. For those you're stuck with one of the universal cable drive kits (http://www.specialtypowerwindows.com/products.php?c=2. $240-$300). You might be able to salvage a Jaguar wiper setup (or MG) and use it -- essentially the same, just rotate one of the pivots to make it swing to/from rather than in unison. The motor is at one end of the cable, so make a cover plate for the original hole and mount the motor on a kick panel. Only need a small hole to run the cable through. Mets used the same setup, but cables would be short and OLD (MG might be too short).

Butch, you would need the motor and rods from a 64-66 Classic or Ambassador for a bolt-in system. Preferably the pivots too, but you can cut the springs on the vacuum wiper pivots (if they haven't already rusted and broke, most likely have!) and use them. The motors are old and may be weak, and are a bit expensive to rebuild. If you have a good vacuum booster fuel pump just get the vacuum wiper motor rebuilt. That will cost less. If the return springs on the pivots are broken a light spring can be connected to the motor under the cowl to help -- doesn't take much.

The main problems with old vacuum wipers not working well is simply age. The seals and valves in the pump (motor) dry out and no longer work correctly. They can be somewhat rejuvenated by taking the bowl off and greasing, but that rarely lasts long. Might be okay for an occasional driver, but not for a daily driver -- you need a new vacuum motor. The vacuum booster section of the fuel pump being worn out is the second most common problem. Replace the motor, then if there are still problems replace the fuel pump. The motor is $75 for a rebuild from Peter Stathes (www.amcrambler.com). The fuel pumps are $130 (plus a $30 core charge) at www.kanter.com. So right around $200 and you're good as new. The only other problem is minor -- a new vacuum hose.

I also recommend that you get a vacuum storage canister form a junk yard. With a good booster pump one of the balls a bit bigger than a softball is fine. If you don't want to replace the fuel pump an occasional driver can get by with a half gallon size "juice can" canister from a mid to late 90s Ford truck (there's on in my bro's 97 F-250 anyway). That will provide 20-30 seconds of motor operation alone.

There is one more problem that's not easily addressed -- low engine vacuum. If the engine is on it's last leg with over 100K on it (unless it has been EXTREMELY well maintained all it's life) you may just not have enough vacuum at road speeds under a load. The large reservoir will help that situation, or you could use an electric or engine driven vacuum pump, but those are not usually cost effective. You might find one under the hood of a diesel engined car in the salvage yard though. My Chevette diesel had it mounted on the back of the alternator, which required the special extended shaft alternator though. Don't know what Volvo and other foreign makes used, but most have one. Cheaper for a manufacturer to use the pump rather than redesign all the climate controls not to need vacuum. Most aftermarket pumps are around $300 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Stainless-Steel-Brakes/884/28146/10002/-1), but I did find one for $220 (http://www.readybrake.com/electricvacuumpump.html). If engi
ne wear is KNOWN to be a problem I'd try the canister first, then MIGHT get one of those pumps. Rebuilding the engine can't be too far away though, might be better to save the $220-300 toward the rebuild.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://www.amc-mag.com
(free download available!)


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