Re: [AMC-list] Truck arms

[Wrambler <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yeah, I think most of that will work.
I may make my own crossmember, been thinking sometimes it is worth
spending a few bucks to be quicker and just general knowledge the
weld quality will be there when it comes to the truck arm tabs!

If I build my own Truck arm mounts I'm guessing that aiming
the theoretical meeting point right at the torque tube meets trans
point will keep the angles and center of gravity pretty much as-is.

Like I was saying, if you make yours on The Ambassador you can probably get them
as long as about 65"s and make the crossmember a bolt in to the original
crossmembers mounting points which are very sturdy!

I think mine will end being channeled into the floor like most
front to rear frame connectors get put in.

I've got massive storage workshop conflicts now that the
parts car is gone...I may end up renting a storage unit, yuck.

It just dawned on me, maybe I'll build a cover for my 5X8' utility trailer.
nice box that will lift in and out of the side pockets.
Hmmmmm, Might be just enough room to get me by until spring.

I want to sell off some of the excess 327 and other assorted odds and ends but
I have to go through the engines to see which one is actually the best first.

Mark Price
Morgantown, WV 26508
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
"I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens!"

----- Original Message -----

> From: "Frank Swygert" <farna@xxxxxxx>
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 5:58:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [AMC-list] Truck arms
> 
> 51" should be sufficient. I don't think I'd go shorter for a street
> car. 
> I had to look up the monoball thing, looks good.
> Wouldn't be hard to make a crossmember from scratch -- you've got the
> 
> tools and knowledge to pull it off.
> 
> As far as moving without the TT installed, what I did was take the TT
> 
> and strut rods off an axle then screwed a 5' or so length of 2x4 to
> the 
> pads (stood on edge, 1/4" lag bolts or drill through) the shock/strut
> 
> rod mount was on (took all that off too). I thin nailed a piece across
> 
> both ends on top to keep them straight, and let the car down on the
> wood 
> frame. A couple screws through the floor kept it from coming out when
> 
> moving around. All I did was roll it around the yard like that,
> hitting 
> anything that would really stop a tire might be a problem with just a
> 
> couple screws (literally two!) holding it in. The small holes in the 
> floor would be easily fixed, though mine was a parts car. Put a few
> more 
> screws in if putting up on a trailer!
> 
> 
> -----------------
> Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 20:32:56 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Wrambler <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Frank, think these will work?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150498887318
> 
> They have the mono ball ends, so I may have to swap those at some
> point.
> I plan on going with them as a monoball setup is about $30 to replace
> 
> the missing one.
> The Arca and the Nascar arms are the lightened versions now selling
> for 
> big bucks
> on stockcar parts.com.
> 
> I have been watching arms now and again and I am not certain what 
> possessed the
> seller to lower the price on what was already a good buy it now.
> 
> They actually make and sell 45 or 46" arms now. It appears that some
> use 
> the short arm
> on one side and the long on the other. I believe this pivots the rear
> 
> axle ever so slightly
> on the circle tracks and helps cornering.
> 
> Yeah, I am onto the crossmembers too.
> Hotrodstohell and I believe Classicone (something close to that name)
> 
> anyway.
> They both sell prefabbed crossmembers. I expect that once I get some 
> dimensions on
> the Ambassadors frame width I will call and figure out which
> crossmember 
> to go with.
> 
> I hope to mock up the lay out with the existing rear.
> I think I can pull it off with removing the angle braces and torque 
> tube. But I need
> to figure out an antiroll means to keep the axle from rolling once the
> 
> tube and braces are gone.
> Propably tack weld in some braces. Then bolt on the Truck arms to the
> 
> housing and lay out
> the crossmember placement.
> 
> Once the cross member is laid out and in it should be a pretty 
> straightforward swap to an open driveline axle.
> Still pondering what that may be.
> Once I get an accurate idea of axle width I will probably hit the one
> pathetic pick ur own part yard we have here.
> 
> I wish I had the floor pan from my parts car to flip and work from.
> But I hacked the floors out of it a long time ago, so that option was
> long gone before I sent it to the scrapyard.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://www.amc-mag.com
> (free download available!)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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