51" should be sufficient. I don't think I'd go shorter for a street car. I had to look up the monoball thing, looks good. Wouldn't be hard to make a crossmember from scratch -- you've got the tools and knowledge to pull it off.
As far as moving without the TT installed, what I did was take the TT and strut rods off an axle then screwed a 5' or so length of 2x4 to the pads (stood on edge, 1/4" lag bolts or drill through) the shock/strut rod mount was on (took all that off too). I thin nailed a piece across both ends on top to keep them straight, and let the car down on the wood frame. A couple screws through the floor kept it from coming out when moving around. All I did was roll it around the yard like that, hitting anything that would really stop a tire might be a problem with just a couple screws (literally two!) holding it in. The small holes in the floor would be easily fixed, though mine was a parts car. Put a few more screws in if putting up on a trailer!
----------------- Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 20:32:56 +0000 (UTC) From: Wrambler <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> Frank, think these will work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150498887318 They have the mono ball ends, so I may have to swap those at some point.I plan on going with them as a monoball setup is about $30 to replace the missing one. The Arca and the Nascar arms are the lightened versions now selling for big bucks
on stockcar parts.com.I have been watching arms now and again and I am not certain what possessed the
seller to lower the price on what was already a good buy it now.They actually make and sell 45 or 46" arms now. It appears that some use the short arm on one side and the long on the other. I believe this pivots the rear axle ever so slightly
on the circle tracks and helps cornering. Yeah, I am onto the crossmembers too.Hotrodstohell and I believe Classicone (something close to that name) anyway. They both sell prefabbed crossmembers. I expect that once I get some dimensions on the Ambassadors frame width I will call and figure out which crossmember to go with.
I hope to mock up the lay out with the existing rear.I think I can pull it off with removing the angle braces and torque tube. But I need to figure out an antiroll means to keep the axle from rolling once the tube and braces are gone. Propably tack weld in some braces. Then bolt on the Truck arms to the housing and lay out
the crossmember placement.Once the cross member is laid out and in it should be a pretty straightforward swap to an open driveline axle.
Still pondering what that may be. Once I get an accurate idea of axle width I will probably hit the one pathetic pick ur own part yard we have here. I wish I had the floor pan from my parts car to flip and work from. But I hacked the floors out of it a long time ago, so that option was long gone before I sent it to the scrapyard. -- Frank Swygert Publisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC) For all AMC enthusiasts http://www.amc-mag.com (free download available!) _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com