Re: [AMC-list] 1963 Classic Throttle and Choke.

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Sounds like someone used some kind of exhaust repair material to "fix" the leak in the past. There used to be several pasty solutions that you spread over a leak (some with a fiber patch "cloth" similar to fiberglass... bet the 60s-70s ones were asbestos!) and the exhaust would "bake" it to a ceramic like hard patch. What you did works!

The hole in the exhaust manifold itself shouldn't leak exhaust -- that's the first problem. It should be a steel tube running completely through the manifold. You probably have a leak on the underside too. The fix is to get a piece of steel brake line the same OD as the hole (or stub of line if any is left) and insert that. clean the hole so the new line will almost go in, you can force it in just a little. Then stick the line in the freezer for a few hours. Spray a little WD-40 or other thin penetrating oil on it and it should slide in without too much trouble. Running the engine for just a few minutes to warm the manifold might help too, but don't run it long and wear good leather work gloves to prevent burns. It just needs to firmly seat in the underside hole, doesn't have to go all the way through (though it's best that it goes 1/4" or so through). Won't hurt to tap the end with a hammer to get it through both holes. That's why I said use 6". You only need about 4" to go 
through, so you can "squash" the end with a small hammer (light taps, can't hit the tubing too hard!) then cut off what you don't need.

An easier fix is to plug the two holes with a tighter fitting sheet metal screw (can drill a little to fit) or tap them for a screw or plug. Then get a couple feet of soft copper line the same OD as the steel tube (or close... I think it's 1/4", might be 3/16"). Wrap at least one good coil of the copper around the exhaust manifold or pipe below the manifold (the later looks better, wrap on coil around exhaust pipe then come up through on of the "Ys" in the manifold) and connect to the choke housing. Virtually no way to get a leak like that! Just make sure you don't crush the soft copper when bending.

Air has to come up the tube and into the choke housing. If there is soot inside a choke housing the tube is leaking exhaust into it. That's a common cause of a choke not working in a 20+ year old car - should be nothing but hot air in there, the carbon/soot mucks things up!

--------
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 22:38:31 -0700
From: Scott Selleh<vnm.venom@xxxxxxxxx>

On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 9:09 AM, tom jennings<tomj@xxxxxxx>  wrote:

>  On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 11:09 PM, Scott Selleh<vnm.venom@xxxxxxxxx>
>  wrote:
>
>  Unless it's really different from the iron engine, that tube coming out  of
>  the exhaust manifold that the carb sucks hot air from, is steel! Or was
>  steel, in 1964... you do want to fix that (if it is the choke stove you are
>  talking about) as it's an exhaust leak.

I don't see this car except for the weekends, i will look at it again and
take some pictures, but to stop that leak i just stuck a screw in the nipple
with a gob of hi-temp silicone as a temporary plug.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://www.amc-mag.com
(free download available!)


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