Re: [AMC-list] 1963 Classic Throttle and Choke.

[tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 11:09 PM, Scott Selleh <vnm.venom@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Before you run that thing torque the cylinder head!! Following the TSM
pattern, crack each bolt loose, torque to spec. Coolant in the oil will ruin
it. The whole job takes less than an hour. I would NOT drive that aluminum
motor without torqueing, and a complete coolant system flush and
installation of good aluminum-compatible antifreeze, absolutely don't run
plain water ('cept maybe for initial testing and flush).



> when the motor isn't running the throttle movement is
> smooth.  Once the motor is started there is a hard spot right when you
> first
> try to ease onto the gas.


It's not supposed to be like that, and it sounds to me like worn out/broken
motor mounts. NAPA stocks generally the front mounts, they must be used on
some tractor or something.

It's possible, but seems unlikely, that the throttle shaft (carb or linkage)
could be so worn, with a groove in it, that when the intake sucks air it
causes it to wedge. I'd partially disconnect it (the pushrod from the pedal,
say) and see if it's stiff on the carb side or the pedal side. Repeat each
section til you find what's stiff. Try leaving screws really loose (in hte
driveway, nto driving!) to see what's binding.



Also I rebuilt the carb and accidentally broke what looks like a clay
> coupler for the exhaust nipple to choke tube, not that the choke is really
> needed here in so. cal in the summer, but it would be nice to have it
> functional if need be.
>

? Unless it's really different from the iron engine, that tube coming out of
the exhaust manifold that the carb sucks hot air from, is steel! Or was
steel, in 1964... you do want to fix that (if it is the choke stove you are
talking about) as it's an exhaust leak.
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