Re: [AMC-list] Fw: 66 6 cyl driveshaft removal question

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

The rear axle needs to be lowered and moved. Don't let anyone tell you 
to jack or pull it back, that only worked with old Chevys with leaf 
springs and torque tubes.

1. Jack the car up from the rear axle using a floor jack directly from 
the rear so you can roll the rear axle back. Support the car in front of 
the wheel wells on the jack pads (LIFT is stamped in the metal).

2. Now you need to take a few items off, beginning with the tires. 
Disconnect the park brake line near the front (unscrew the adjusting 
nut), disconnect the rubber brake hose from the body, take the lower end 
of the shocks loose, and pull the bolt from the axle end of the panhard 
rod and tie the rod up out of the way. Then lower the jack and remove 
the rear springs. This is why the tires came off, so the jack will go 
down far enough to get the springs out. You might have to jack it back 
up and support the body a little higher.

3. Pull the four bolts out of the torque-tube to transmission flange.

4. Now you can roll the rear axle and torque tube back. If it;s been on 
there a long time you may have to sit under the car and push/kick with 
your legs. Make sure the car is supported well and front and back of at 
least one front wheel is blocked. I had to give mine a really good kick 
to move it the first time. The yoke doesn't slide on the transmission 
like open drives do and it can stick after 40+ years being on there. It 
just slips on the shaft and the trans, doesn't matter which comes off.

Leave the shaft on the rear axle and inside the torque tube, no need to 
mess with either. The universal joint should be inspected, but most of 
the 6 cyl. joints look/feel new even with over 100K miles on them. The 
only thing to look at  is the thick rubber pad on the end of the torque 
tube flange. If it's badly deteriorated you might want to replace it. If 
it's just bad at the bottom you can twist it 180 degrees and that will 
help. The bottom soaks up a lot of trans fluid from the rear seal and 
deteriorate rapidly. If it need replacing scrape as much of the old off 
as you can and find a rubber mat to cut up for a seal. One of the heavy 
foam rubber foot mats from Lowe's (etc.) for standing on while working 
at equipment (anti-fatigue mat) are usually heavy enough. Might require 
doubling up. Use a good RTV or silicone to stick the two pieces together 
and to stick it to the tube flange. Any dense rubber should work. I'd 
also replace that rear seal while the transmission is out, but if it 
doesn't appear to be leaking (rubber and all is dry, not oily) then 
leave it alone.

Eddie Stakes wrote:
> The folks below are fixin to remove the driveshaft on their 66 
> Classic. Way out of my league however figured many of you have done 
> this and could help out, thanks in advance to all who might reply with 
> tips and advise, and be sure to copy your reply directly to them also.
> Eddie Stakes
> 713.464.8825
> eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> www.planethoustonamx.com
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Evenson" <epd@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Subject: 66 6 cyl
>
>
> > I need to take the clutch out of a 66 Classic with a 6 cyl and need  
> > any advice on what or how to remove the drive shaft? I have not 
> > looked  at it too close but it is an enclosed shaft (meaning there is 
> > a case  over the outside) and I have not dealt with that kind of set 
> > up before.
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Keith Evenson


--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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