Re: [Amc-list] 65 Rambler - the project continues

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

You might want to take some measurements and visit the friendliest local parts dealer, one who will let you go in back and look at all the hoses. I'd take a piece of coat hanger (or other stiff) wire and cut and bend it to the shape you want, preferably with the hose removed so you can make the bend along the centerline of the desired hose. I was able to match one to fit my 63 American, but had to cut about 1/3 of the hose off. I don't have the number for that hose, it went with the car when sold. 

Gas Tank Renu is a great service, but it's not real hard to repair a tank. There are liquid liners available for DIY, but they are only effective after thorough cleaning. If you just have seam leaks and a small pin-hole area, this works fine. If there are larger holes they need to be fixed first. 

Regular epoxy won't last long when subjected to constant exposure to gasoline -- liquid or concentrated fumes. I used JB Weld to seal the top of a tank and it lasted 3-4 months before starting to release. You'll need the gas tank repair putty sticks to repair larger holes, up to 1/4" in diameter. The liquid slosh kits come with a small square of material which can be used for patches, but I don't trust it. 

Cleaning the tank is the tough part. I used brick cleaning acid diluted a bit less than recommended for brick. It's a light acid, so be careful with it! Before the acid I stick a handful of pea gravel or 1/4" and 3/8" nuts (a few 1-2" bolts won't hurt either) inside and bang those around with the tank dry. That will knock any scale loose. Then rinse well with water, then the acid. After that it must dry completely. A hair dryer on low heat/high blower speed taped in the inlet works great -- leave it in about an hour, then let it sit another hour. Then put the liquid in. I prefer the Hirsch Auto product, but Eastwood sells virtually the same thing. I wish they still made the old self-etching liner, but either the EPA or customers making small spills got to them (if it touched painted metal for even a split second it went right down to bare metal -- but it worked infallibly!).

Gas Tank Renu cuts one or two large holes in the top of the tank after a good wash of the inside to remove fumes and residue. Then they steam clean it through the holes. After than any areas that need welding are patched up, the large holes have patches (or the original material if solid) welded in, and the tank is coated inside and out. I believe they use a urethane based liner. The POR company makes a urethane based tank liner, but you MUST get enough for 100% coverage. They say the kit (1 qt. of sealer) will cover up to a 25 gallon tank, but I found that it didn't cover 100% of my 63 Classic 21 gallon tank. If you don't get 100% coverage, you end up with an area where moisture and fuel can get behind the sealer. This will eventually lead to sealer failure, and the lining will start coming loose inside the tank. At that point you might be able to use a strong paint stripper to remove it and start over, but the urethane coating is tough to get out. It's possible that the kit
  I had was on the shelf too long and had thickened some, but I'd suggest getting an extra 8oz. if sealing a tank over 16-18 gallons in size. Much better to waste a few ounces of sealer (it can't be reused after the seal on the can is broken -- the liquid will absorb moisture) than to ruin a tank like I did. Luckily I had a parts car at the time, though that tank eventually started leaking too. 

I decided to lick the problem by making a new tank, but that's not possible for most. It's really not that hard if you have a MIG welder, 1/2" drill, and a couple hole saws. I designed the tank to fit then had a local shop bend the metal, which I bought from them. I had some sealing problems, but that was a design issue, and the fact that I couldn't find a sealer that was fuel proof (not just "resistant" -- which won't last with constant exposure). I finally found that, but will probably weld the area when I remove the tank. I designed my tank with a screw on top (the WHOLE top), should have made an access panel that I could cut a gasket for and welded the top on. I've made that "adjustment" now, but tried JB Weld on the seam and screwed the top back down. Now it leaks when more than 2/3 full, but just a few drops when sloshing around. I just keep no more than 1/2 tank in it right now, but will drop the tank this spring. I now have some expensive "wet wing" aircraft fuel tank
  sealer, but it's really made to seal JP-4 (jet fuel), which is closer to kerosene than gasoline. Gas might eventually break it down too. I think I'll remove the top, pressure wash the inside, then weld that top on this time! None of my welded and soldered seams leak. Oh yeah, I used generous 1/2" overlaps on all seams and sweat soldered them after welding. Welds can have porosity issues, the solder took care of that! 

--------------
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:14:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>

Does anyone know the part number and a source for the upper radiator hose for an OHV 196 in a Rambler American?

My car came with a flex hose, which I am reusing, but I've done a search on the net and have not found a molded hose that fits.  The rockauto listing for a molded hose is incorrect.  I'll be sending that one back.

I dropped the gas tank too and found holes.  This is the first holey gas tank I have ever encountered here in CA.  The car was from Texas though.  I'll be asking a local radiator shop if they do gas tank repairs in addition to reconditioning.  If they do not, it's off to Gas Tank Renu.

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)


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