Re: [Amc-list] caspers cancer (was wwyd??)

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

The fiber glassing does work.
I did it to the floorboards in my American.
The trick as Frank says it to get all the loose rust gone and you MUST be sure you have completely sealed it inside and out of the repair.
  If moisture gets in between the glass and the metal it WILL fail.
That why I  mentioend a few days ago I would not recomend the glass inthe cowl corners of the 65-66 and maybe 63-64's? I think from what I saw of the glassed repairs in the flood car there may be too much flex in that area to allow it to stay sealed allowing moisture into the repair.
  The flood car had two perfectly formed fiberglass cowl corners sitting under the carpet, completely undercoated inside and out. They were no longer attached to anything though!
   
  The 62 looks different, so I honestly cannot comment on how it would hold up there.
If I did not want to weld all those pieces in I would go with 18 gauge metal cut out all the rust I could and bond patches in with adhesives rated for the job. There are so many I would not recomend one as I don't know them.
   I would cut patches to fill those flats to close the angles where the metal is spot welded together and then bond the patches in filling the flats with new metal.  If it's accessable I'd consider sandwiching the holed metal between new metal, but that posses a bunch of other issues due to sealing and protecting the are between the sandwhich.

   I've never seen a 62 apart and close up, so I don't really know what it should or should not have done or what rust is a structural issue. I would have loved to got that car Jerjan offered up, but can't retrieve such a thing. I like the looks of the 62 and maybe someday I'll stumble over a nice one. Maybe not.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> The under fender stuff is typical, and not that bad. The key thing to do in that 
> area is to head off any further deterioration. You can clean all that up, prime 
> and paint (or use "rust conversion" primer), rivet/bond material over the holes 
> (it's not weakening the structure, I'd bond it with urethane panel adhesive or 
> epoxy, or better yet use fiberglass), then spray on a good thick coat or 
> undercoating. Paint the inside too (or again, better to 'glass over it -- the 
> 'glass will seal it much better than paint!). Or cut it out and weld in new 
> metal.  This is a hidden area though, so I'd tend to "patch" it rather than make 
> a more time consuming "proper" repair. Fiberglass rules in rusted areas like 
> these! 
> 
> You could almost do the same (reinforce with fiberglass) to the rails 
> underneath, but that IS structural. You can't easily get to the back side to 
> make sure you've sealed off all the surfaces either, which is absolutely 
> necessary to stop the rust. If not oxygen or moisture can get through to the 
> metal the rusting (oxidizing) will stop. If it's not removed it must be 
> controlled. Mark has the right idea for repairing those, I think -- cut the 
> bottoms out, make u-shaped channels from similar gauge steel (18 gauge, at least 
> that's definitely what a 63 body is made from, I cut one up and measured it 
> all!) then weld them in. Won't hurt if the metal is slightly thicker (say 16 
> gauge, which may be easier to find).   If you cut the bottom out entirely you 
> could paint the inside before welding, but the welding heat will burn some of 
> the paint off. Better to use the holesaw through the floor above method. Instead 
> of large holes, you could get a rust proofing kit from somewhere like JCW 
>  that comes with wands for getting into tight places. 
> 
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