Re: [Amc-list] engine issues small block AMC

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I've used ainti sieze, but only on aluminum headed ricer stuff.
I think it will not effect heat transfer at all. Liquids usually tranfers heat better than air so by filling the gaps and protecting against corrosion it may actually let the plugs run cooler.

  I was just trying to point out that for our stuff, new isn't always better.
If it ain't broke don't fix it!
   I think you got that though.  I keep thinking I should replace my plugs due to age, but, it runs great, it doesn ot even have the occasional stumble most 4.0s have. I just pull the plugs every couple of yeasr and examine and regap them.  I put about 700 miles on the American this year, 430 last year, so I'm not wearing anything out either!
   Part of the reason I'm going to go ahaed an build the Stroker, even if I lose 2-3mpg at that annual useage, who cares!

   I got to figure out some air quality issues, see the next post.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> The reason my plugs are 25 years old is because the car sat in storage for
> 18 years and it's only been out for about 5 years. The car currently gets
> about 1500 to 2000 miles put on it in a year. Those plugs were new shortly
> before the car got put away, and I used the car very little the last few
> years before storage. I think using leaded fuel one could get maybe 25k
> miles out of a set. Now with unleaded that may improve a bit, even though
> the plug is "soft".
> 
> I've been watching ebay for N12Y plugs, I still have a set of ACCEL
> equivalent plugs from the mid 70s, NOS too!
> When the time comes they will go in, but for now the old set are not worn
> out.
> Do you put a touch of anti seize on the plug threads before putting them in?
> I thought I would try that this time, I have always put them in dry. I
> wonder if that may change the heat transfer.
> 
> Armand
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 12:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] engine issues small block AMC
> 
> 
> > I don't know about plugs.
> > I try and make an informed decision, but hey as far as I know the
> champions will run it good as anything!
> > I've read the only thing the high tech plugs do is either extend life due
> to hard materials or open the spark kernal area.
> >
> >   You may be as well off finding another set of champions off of evilbay
> as buying anything new and high tech!
> >
> > I'm running a 10 year old set of splitfires in the American, their not
> platinum or anything else.
> > I have regapped them a few times over the years, but they still work OK.
> > Probably about time I took them out of service though.
> >
> > The reason the old champions worked so good from what I've read is they
> are soft, in relation to other plugs, the surface burns off so they keep
> working. They also wear out!
> >
> > There, hope that helps, should be clear as mud...
> >
> > --
> > Mark Price
> > Morgantown, WV
> > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
> > " I realize that death is inevitable.
> > I just don't want to be around when it happens! "
> >
> >  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > What do you think??
> > >   I took the plugs out of the white Javelin's 304 yesterday (block has
> never
> > > been out of the car, reground valves at approximately 90k miles, now has
> > > approximately 110k) to hose down the cylinders with Sea Foam for winter
> storage.
> > > All plugs (25 year old Champion N12Y) looked very clean, white
> porcelain,
> > > slightly gray white ground electrodes with a thin whitish deposit on
> them.
> > > Virtually no deposit on the little round center electrode. The cylinders
> must
> > > still be sealed pretty well, and the carburetor must be delivering the
> correct
> > > amount of fuel. Last drive of the car was to full operating temperature
> and at
> > > least 20 miles at 2000 rpm in 5th gear. I have been wanting to do a
> cylinder
> > > leak down check to verify for sure what's going on with the engine.
> Seems to
> > > have a lack of high end power and labors trying to rev up to or rev past
> 4000 or
> > > 4500 in most gears.  Is it the crappy 91 octane no lead??
> > >   Timing is near spec, 5 degress before. Don't know what timing is at
> 4000 rpm,
> > > it's not setup with a readable timing mark to use at higher rpm, which
> is
> > > another thing I've been contemplating doing. Establishing timing marks
> at the
> > > ignition fully advanced points on the vibration dampener to see if the
> timing is
> > > stable and correct. The Mallory dual point doesn't have vacumn advance,
> just
> > > mechanical. I may still be experiencing spark
> > >
> > >   I'm thinking I have either valve spring weakness issues or that and
> worn cam
> > > lobes, lifters dished troubles. What do you think?
> > >
> > >   Back in the middle 70s when I was braver the car used to top out at
> nearly 115
> > > to 120 mph. Now if I see 90 or 100 I'm lucky.  It should go faster yet
> because
> > > of the .63 overdrive 5th gear.
> > >   And Mark don't say something like it's because you've no longer got
> any balls.
> > > ROFL
> > >
> > >   What plug do you guys use to replace the Champion N12Y which is no
> longer
> > > available, iirc.
> > >
> > >   Thanks,
> > >
> > >   Armand
> > > -------------- next part --------------
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