Bruce Griffis wrote: > I think I'll double check what I did and try and take a quick digital > film. My camera is good for a few minutes worth of video - and that > should be enough to show adjusting one or two valves. From your previous description it sounds like you did it 100% correct. Yeah, it's "feel". I think if you analyzed tight vs. loose by feel with the feeler guage there's probably .001 - .002 difference in there. That's just fine. > figure out intake versus exhaust From front, you can figure it out from observation... E's and I's are always adjacent, since E's dump into one outlet and I's come in from one port. from front E I I E E I I E E ... AMC sixes always have "E" as the front-most. It's not that critical especially in this motor! They shouldn't be so loose as to rattle around, make noise, and let parts hammer each other; they must have SOME clearance else parts wear with constant contact, don't get lubed, and if tight enough, the valve never really closes, leaks, and burns. Plus parts get cold (weather) and hot (mtn climbing) and expand/contract so the factory just works this crap out and puts it in the book! A valve spec'ed at .012, but set at .014 or .010 will be fine. Maybe you could hear .014 with a good ear.. In fact, it's been 6000 miles since I did valve adjust and torque on mine, better do it this weekend! Twice a year is easy enough, it all takes what, 40 minutes? > I did stand in front of the car and reach back. I think I broke a > cardinal rule of working on cars, by leaning over a running fan. Major > idiot move. I'll have to hit them from the side. Eh, depends on the fan I suppose, but I just make sure there's nothing to get sucked into the fan. At least on the 63-earlier Americans, the fan is actually hard to reach. _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list