Re: [Amc-list] 70-74 AMC Javelin AMX Front Coil Spring Compressor OnEbay

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Couple suggestions next time you are at a Hardware store.
Pick up an Allthread coupler nut for the top as it is very long and will engage more threads.

If buying new stuff, I'd use 5/8" allthread and Nuts.

Garry Jacobs was  making this tool too.
Not sure what email he is currently using, someone here will know.
He found good hardened rod with the "correct" threading etc;

I'd make the tool too, if i couldn't get on off of Garry.
Note: a tool for early 70's late 60's Mustangs etc works fine as I used to use the AMC tool on Fords!
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> John,
> 
> for about ten bucks or so you can make one of these yourself. I made one in
> about a
> half hour with materials laying around my shop.
> 
> I removed the upper shock mount bracket from each side of the car, loosened
> the lug nuts on the front wheels
> raised the front of the car up (set the park brake) place it on blocks of
> wood right under the (drill a 1/2 hole in an appropriate length piece of 1 x
> 4 wood place it at the sway bar link bolt)  front sway bar to lower control
> arm attach point. remove the wheels
> remove both shocks, so I could use one of them as pattern for the bottom
> piece of the coil compressor tool.
> 
> I used a piece of 1/2 inch coarse all-thread rod 21 inches long ( it was
> plenty long but that's what was laying around)
> three 1/2 inch coarse nuts,
> four 1/2 inch washers
> two 3/8 inch diameter x 3 inch long bolts
> four 3/8 inch washers
> a piece of  1 x 2 rectangular steel tubing
> and a piece of 3/8 inch thick plate steel that is about  a 2-1/2 x 3-1/2
> rectangular chunk.
> other tubing or flat stock would work, it just has to be strong enough that
> it won't deflect when compressing the spring.
> Heck even the bottom shock mount off an old shock might work if you welded
> it to the 1/2 inch all-thread rod or something
> 
> I drilled a 1/2 inch diameter hole in the middle of the tube and the middle
> of the plate
> Then I drilled two 3/8 inch holes through the plate at the same spacing as
> the bottom shock mount on the front shocks.
> Two 1/2 inch washers go on the top of the 1 x 2 tube with a single 1/2 inch
> nut
> the two 3/8 bolts go into the holes 3/8 holes in the plate with a washer at
> the head of the bolt and one under each nut
> 
> 
> drop the tool into the hole and placed the 1 x 2 tube on top of the spring
> perch under the hood with blocks of wood placed 90 degrees to the 1 x 2 tube
> to space it up a bit and give a rocking motion to it.
> bolt the two 3/8 bolts and the plate into the shock mount inside the spring
> (being a contortionist helps here)
> snug up the 1/2 inch all-thread
> remove the bolts holding the bottom spring perch to the upper control arm
> raise the car again, the suspension goes to full droop
> loosen the 1/2 nut on top of the spring perch
> guide the coil spring out over the upper control arm, I used 1x4 wood and
> slid it across and over the top of the ball joint while loosening the nut on
> the 1/2 inch all-thread
> by the time you get it to this point the spring has very little caged energy
> left and is much safer to handle.
> 
> Look at it a while and I'm sure you'll see how simple the operation really
> is.
> Installation is kind of the reverse.......
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I think if you have the money buy the tool
> I have a severe to handicapping case of Rambler Mentality so I make do with
> what's laying around the shop.........
> 
> Armand
> 
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